|
||
|
4th February 2021, 21:16 | #1 |
Avid contributor
Rover 75 Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Kirk Ella
Posts: 141
Thanks: 9
Thanked 43 Times in 14 Posts
|
Grey white smoke
Hi I have a 2005 1.8t with just over 100k miles which is giving out whit/grey smoke once the engine has warmed up. It uses no coolant so I am assuming the head is OK but it is using a little oil in-between changes. I thought the fault was with the turbo but that's been replaced and the smoke's still there. The engine pulls fine but it all seems a bit environment unfriendly? Any ideas for a cure would be welcome!!
|
5th February 2021, 00:22 | #2 | |
Loves to post
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Deal, Kent
Posts: 264
Thanks: 44
Thanked 81 Times in 58 Posts
|
Quote:
__________________
MG Rover South East admin |
|
5th February 2021, 10:59 | #3 |
Avid contributor
Rover 75 Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Kirk Ella
Posts: 141
Thanks: 9
Thanked 43 Times in 14 Posts
|
Grey white smoke
thanks but I think any oil in the exhaust has had time to burn out. I wondered if the problem is with the valve oil seals. The engine sounds quite tappety. Could this be a clue as to what's wrong? The cylinder head was replaced with a second hand one six months ago and if possible I'd like not to have that done again!
|
5th February 2021, 11:19 | #4 |
This is my second home
R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: France/or Devon.
Posts: 14,003
Thanks: 3,851
Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts
|
A compression test would give you an idea of the condition of the pistons and rings as worn rings are often the cause of oil burning.
It shouldn't be the turbo as you say it's been changed. |
5th February 2021, 11:31 | #5 |
same car since 2005
2001 Rover 75 2.0 v6 Connoisseur Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ellesmere Port , Cheshire
Posts: 3,811
Thanks: 379
Thanked 549 Times in 466 Posts
|
If it is only after warming up then it doesn't sound like the valve stem oil seals . They leak oil whilst the engine is stopped and release a veritable dust-storm of blue smoke when you fire up !
I did mine at about 110k miles and what a relief once they had been done Nobody staring at me any more ! The old seals were rock hard and weren't sealing anything , but interestingly oil consumption was negligible .
__________________
Who said it was simples ? |
5th February 2021, 21:57 | #6 |
Just going about!
Rover 75 CDTi Connie SE Tourer starlight silver and serpents. MG ZT-T 190+ in Raven Black. Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Great Leighs
Posts: 468
Thanks: 626
Thanked 167 Times in 110 Posts
|
A compression test wouldn't indicate the condition of the oil control rings, I have seen engines that show a 'good' compression test result, but still pass oil up past the oil control rings. When I rebuilt my wife's Volvo 245 engine, it didn't smoke at all under 3,600 rpm and if driven under those revs didn't use any oil, but if pushed over those revs would literally smoke the whole road out (fun to stand on the throttle and obliterate everything behind you if you (i) were that immature!).
When stripped the bores were within spec, compression rings slightly worn but the oil control rings were heavilly worn as was the bottom end, although it never rattled or knocked and performed adequately. A full strip and inspection showed dirt ingress from the bottom end - i.e contaminated oil, or in this case gutted and modified breather by some numb nut mechanic / previous owner. As worn as this engine was it never breathed heavily and appeared healthy until pushed. So the question is does it smoke more with higher revs (rings), or after periods of idling/low revs (valve stem seals/ worn guides)? - assuming the new turbo is A1 ok. Last edited by bsafly; 5th February 2021 at 22:05.. Reason: Spelling |
6th February 2021, 07:54 | #7 |
This is my second home
Roverless + 1.7D Sportage Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: East Norfolk
Posts: 7,050
Thanks: 729
Thanked 2,021 Times in 1,449 Posts
|
The rear exhaust box fills up with condensation on short trips and takes aaaaaaaages to evaporate out. Try drilling a 3mm hole at the lowest point in the box and watch the water flow out. Stick a self tapper in at MOT time and save internal rusting on the box and lots of steam! That may not be your problem but it saves a lot of steam and rusty back boxes.
__________________
Oil in my veins! |
6th February 2021, 22:36 | #8 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE Join Date: May 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 11,392
Thanks: 6,587
Thanked 2,262 Times in 1,729 Posts
|
How often do you check your brake fluid? If the smell coming out of the exhaust is acrid, then it could be the brake servo leaking. I had it happen in my SD1.
__________________
Great Barr, Birmingham. |
7th February 2021, 09:13 | #9 | |
This is my second home
Rover 75 tourer Club CD/Limo Tints Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Meneac
Posts: 6,759
Thanks: 5,007
Thanked 1,609 Times in 869 Posts
|
Quote:
you could try disconnecting the vacume pipe from the servo or manifold end, and blocking it off and the start the engine to see it still smokes. BUT DONT DRIVE IT AS YOU WILL HAVE NO BRAKE ASSIST.
__________________
] "I started out with nothing, and Ive still got most of it left!" |
|
7th February 2021, 09:42 | #10 |
This is my second home
Rovers 75 & 25 Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wearside
Posts: 4,522
Thanks: 543
Thanked 709 Times in 511 Posts
|
I would check the plugs for oil and/or coolant contamination. Coolant contamination usually presents on plugs 1 or 4 giving them a washed and white appearance in comparison to the other plugs.
|
|
|