Brakes overheating - Page 2

trikey · 11th August 2021, 16:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by podman

My Rover 75 has developed a dragging sound which seems to be coming from the rear brakes. I stopped the car, got out and checked the rear brake discs, they were hot, and the pads were touching them, but not flat-on, but tilted slightly so that only the top edge of them was touching. Then I looked at the front discs for comparison and found that they too were hot and the pads touching in the same way. And, thankfully, when I'm driving and I apply the brakes they do work as normal.
What is going on here? Is it that the master cylinder isn't retracting properly? Or is it an ABS problem? Does anyone have any insight into this one please?
Thanks.

Check your backplates haven’t rotted away and released the pins that hold the handbrake shoes on.

GJ53 DGO · 11th August 2021, 17:41

Or take a leaf out of my book and stop using them, they only slow you down.

clf · 11th August 2021, 18:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beckid

The back brakes on my mg zt are overheating. I have checked and cleaned all Caliper slides and checked that piston moves in and out. Wheels seem to turn ok when I check with car stationary. When I drive for a few minutes and then check disks. They are both very hot. Can anyone suggest what I try next?

How long did you wait until after you stopped to checked them?

Even a gentle stop would be enough to make them hot (relatively speaking). Dangerously hot after a couple of miles driving too (do not touch them, speaking from my 17 year old self's experience lol)

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cossie dunc · 11th August 2021, 20:24

I’ve had this a couple of times on customers cars, wheels spin freely, slides and pistons move ok, drive for 15 mins they start to bind or drag. In both cases it was the piston that was causing the issue, even though it moves when forced with a clamp or screw driver

podman · 11th August 2021, 21:22

Thanks macafee2, I accept of course that there is very little gap, but I have not until now been able to hear the rubbing/dragging sound, and the tilted angle of the brakes seems odd. Perhaps you are right about a bit of piston surface corrosion. The handbrake was adjusted about 9 months ago, so it would be strange if this was the cause of this new effect now. I will put some time aside and jack up the car, and do the footbrake and wheel-spin test as you suggest, and see if that sheds any light. Thanks for the advice.

11th August 2021, 17:41	#12
GJ53 DGO Gets stuck in MG-ZT 260SE Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Burstwick Posts: 529 Thanks: 535 Thanked 197 Times in 117 Posts	Or take a leaf out of my book and stop using them, they only slow you down. __________________ This vehicle was the 5,293rd ZT to run off the production line, out of 18,894 This vehicle was the 1st ZT 260 SE to be made out of 384 This vehicle was the 75th ZT in Starlight Silver (code: MBB) to be made out of 2,479 Starlight Silver ZTs (Now in Zircon)

11th August 2021, 20:24	#14
cossie dunc I really should get out more....... rover 75 contemporary se cdti + rover 75 connie cdti work horse Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: West lothian Posts: 2,258 Thanks: 217 Thanked 424 Times in 189 Posts	I’ve had this a couple of times on customers cars, wheels spin freely, slides and pistons move ok, drive for 15 mins they start to bind or drag. In both cases it was the piston that was causing the issue, even though it moves when forced with a clamp or screw driver __________________ TOO MANY ROVERS @ CDL autotec Scotland's rover 75/mg zt service,repair & enthusiast centre Used parts.....servicing.......mechanical repairs.......modifications Call Duncan 07415 251 705

11th August 2021, 21:22	#15
podman Newbie Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: May 2020 Location: Cheltenham Posts: 2 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks macafee2, I accept of course that there is very little gap, but I have not until now been able to hear the rubbing/dragging sound, and the tilted angle of the brakes seems odd. Perhaps you are right about a bit of piston surface corrosion. The handbrake was adjusted about 9 months ago, so it would be strange if this was the cause of this new effect now. I will put some time aside and jack up the car, and do the footbrake and wheel-spin test as you suggest, and see if that sheds any light. Thanks for the advice.