Really really useful info - Page 2

Robson Rover Repair · 27th August 2009, 00:06

Maybe your one of the unlucky ones that doesnt have an owners manual and doesnt want to search through the forums (how lazy), so powerbulbs.co.uk has a handy guide that will show you what bulbs you need for your 75/zt if you have normal Halogen lights.

Now to make life even easier for you, ive made a quick photoshop of the information for both cars (which is the same, but still its nice to have).

Hope this is useful to other owners.

T-Cut · 17th September 2009, 22:26

I keep this handy:

What intrigues me about such specs are the differences between 75 and ZT figures, when they both share identical suspension parts and attachements. How can the King Pin Inclinations differ? How can the Caster Angles differ? I'd like to know what they do to make them different. Are the mounting holes different in the body shells?

Edit2: I notice Haynes quotes the above 75 data for all models and averages the King Pin settings. Hmm...

EDIT3: (April 2010) I recently discovered that there is a variation in the lower suspension arm (wishbone) rear mounting bushes. The MG models have a different part number from the 75s. This suggests that there will be a variation in certain parameters (don't know which) due to a difference in the positioning of the rear pivot point. This suggests that the 'fits all models' type mounting bushes sold on eBay for example, should be checked out very thoroughly. It could possibly be a reason why many cars seem to suffer tyre edge wear.

TC

crofts · 9th November 2009, 01:15

Tried to have a look at handbrake adjustment.
Appears the link in 'the tyre & wheel bible' & 'the brake bible' is the same & only covers wheels & tyres, not brakes.
(have scrolled through all 8 pages of posts)

kfieldin · 9th November 2009, 06:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by crofts

Tried to have a look at handbrake adjustment.
Appears the link in 'the tyre & wheel bible' & 'the brake bible' is the same & only covers wheels & tyres, not brakes.
(have scrolled through all 8 pages of posts)

Can be found here http://www.carbibles.com/brake_bible.html

Kelvin

SapperGB · 17th February 2012, 06:48

bumping this post as its getting lost and wondering if some aspects could be filtered into a sticky?

Dragrad · 5th November 2012, 22:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by SapperGB

bumping this post as its getting lost and wondering if some aspects could be filtered into a sticky?

A bit too much for selective stickies although some have made it into The How To forum

Keith · 6th November 2012, 18:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by SapperGB

bumping this post as its getting lost and wondering if some aspects could be filtered into a sticky?

I made it a sticky when I first created it but like many threads on forums they get hijacked and go off topic unless heavily moderated or closed and the point of this thread was to simply collate useful info I used to delete all sorts of posts from it in the early days.

I guess it went so off topic or because of my resignation from the club after falling foul with a certain couple of now extremely ex management colleagues it got unstuck.

Plus a lot is probably out of date now anyway.

COLVERT · 25th November 2012, 18:10

Posting this here cos nobody really seems to know what chemical actions take place inside a charged battery as it starts to discharge. So here it is.

Basically lead to lead sulphate and acid to water. Follow the colour scheme. The two plates end up as lead sulphate when the battery is discharged. PbSO4.

When recharged the negative plate is pure lead. Pb. The positive plate becomes lead dioxide. PbO2.

The red ++ indicates two ions and the blue = indicates two electrons.

H2SO4 is the sulphuric acid.

H2O is the water.

Pb0 is lead oxide.

The battery is shown discharging. The direction of the chemical reactions is reversed on charging.

A battery must NEVER be left in a discharged state as the lead sulphate crystals on the two plates compact over a period of several months to a solid layer and kill the battery.

Charging and discharging keeps this sulphate layer to a minimum and increases the lifespan of the battery.

Colvert.

( Look after your battery and it will look after you. Lol )

PS. Click on thumbnail and have a study of it. The colours show how the chemicals combine and what compounds they form. The coloured arrows show the order in which the reactions take place.

COLVERT · 4th February 2013, 11:32

http://www.aronline.co.uk/blogs/fact...essay-k-series

(Try number 2. Lol )

Got it, it works this time. lol.

When you get there also click on the bit further down the page-----'WHAT MAKES IT TICK'. This gives much more detail about the 1.8 engine development.

Colvert.

Mike Noc · 26th July 2013, 07:58

I modified my CDT to run a single speed fan a few years ago, and noticed that the Rover circuit diagram was incorrect, so drew these diagrams up.

The diesel engines run quite cool so will work fine with a single speed fan in the UK climate, but I wouldn't do this with the petrol engined models, as they need all the cooling they can get.

If you do fit a non standard fan the correct rated fuse must be used to protect the circuit. I fitted a 25 amp fuse that was originally used with the donor fan, but of course this may vary.

[IMG]

[/IMG]

[IMG]

[/IMG]

Hope this helps.

Mike

27th August 2009, 00:06	#1
Robson Rover Repair NI/ROI RS ZT-T 190 / 75 Diesel x3 / 6 door limo / 216 Cabby / Rover 25 van Join Date: May 2009 Location: Antrim Posts: 8,104 Thanks: 299 Thanked 1,046 Times in 568 Posts	Really really useful info Maybe your one of the unlucky ones that doesnt have an owners manual and doesnt want to search through the forums (how lazy), so powerbulbs.co.uk has a handy guide that will show you what bulbs you need for your 75/zt if you have normal Halogen lights. Now to make life even easier for you, ive made a quick photoshop of the information for both cars (which is the same, but still its nice to have). Hope this is useful to other owners. __________________ Cheers, Colin Robson Rover Repair on Youtube DISCOUNTED MTEC BRAKES FOR ALL MG ROVER'S Braided hoses, more coating and pad options for 2024

17th September 2009, 22:26	#2
T-Cut This is my second home Rover75 and Mreg Corsa. Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sumweer onat mote o'dust (Sagin) Posts: 21,754 Thanks: 341 Thanked 3,660 Times in 2,924 Posts	Wheel Alignment Specs I keep this handy: What intrigues me about such specs are the differences between 75 and ZT figures, when they both share identical suspension parts and attachements. How can the King Pin Inclinations differ? How can the Caster Angles differ? I'd like to know what they do to make them different. Are the mounting holes different in the body shells? Edit2: I notice Haynes quotes the above 75 data for all models and averages the King Pin settings. Hmm... EDIT3: (April 2010) I recently discovered that there is a variation in the lower suspension arm (wishbone) rear mounting bushes. The MG models have a different part number from the 75s. This suggests that there will be a variation in certain parameters (don't know which) due to a difference in the positioning of the rear pivot point. This suggests that the 'fits all models' type mounting bushes sold on eBay for example, should be checked out very thoroughly. It could possibly be a reason why many cars seem to suffer tyre edge wear. TC Last edited by T-Cut; 17th March 2014 at 09:07..

9th November 2009, 01:15	#3
crofts I really should get out more....... 2003 Rover 75 Conn. SE Auto Tourer 131 ps CDTi Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Bristol Posts: 2,512 Thanks: 38 Thanked 67 Times in 55 Posts	Brakes/wheels,tyres Tried to have a look at handbrake adjustment. Appears the link in 'the tyre & wheel bible' & 'the brake bible' is the same & only covers wheels & tyres, not brakes. (have scrolled through all 8 pages of posts) __________________ Rover 75 CDTi SE Connoisseur Tourer (2003) In desirable STARLIGHT SILVER (now restored to it's former glory with all the chrome !)

4th February 2013, 11:32	#9
COLVERT This is my second home R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: France/or Devon. Posts: 14,003 Thanks: 3,851 Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts	http://www.aronline.co.uk/blogs/fact...essay-k-series (Try number 2. Lol ) Got it, it works this time. lol. When you get there also click on the bit further down the page-----'WHAT MAKES IT TICK'. This gives much more detail about the 1.8 engine development. Colvert. Last edited by COLVERT; 4th February 2013 at 11:44..

26th July 2013, 07:58	#10
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,578 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Cooling Fan Circuit Diagrams I modified my CDT to run a single speed fan a few years ago, and noticed that the Rover circuit diagram was incorrect, so drew these diagrams up. The diesel engines run quite cool so will work fine with a single speed fan in the UK climate, but I wouldn't do this with the petrol engined models, as they need all the cooling they can get. If you do fit a non standard fan the correct rated fuse must be used to protect the circuit. I fitted a 25 amp fuse that was originally used with the donor fan, but of course this may vary. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] Hope this helps. Mike Last edited by Mike Noc; 26th July 2013 at 08:01..

17th February 2012, 06:48	#5
SapperGB Posted a thing or two 2005 190 ZT-T SE Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Dagenham Posts: 1,242 Thanks: 2 Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts	bumping this post as its getting lost and wondering if some aspects could be filtered into a sticky?