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19th June 2020, 21:09 | #141 | |
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Quote:
Probably the difference may be down to the BCU model, mine is a YAC001521 GM604 and yours and probable Vinnie's too will likely be a YAC112330, an early highline GM6. There are firmware differences, the main one being lazy seats, but I wouldn't imagine the wake signals would be different In both cases, the main relay isn't energised, so neither the MEMS or the EMS2000 would be powered up, so we are looking at some other variable still. Brian |
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20th June 2020, 05:04 | #142 |
I really should get out more.......
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If TOAF is correct: BCU= YWC001521, IPK= YAC110415.
Out of curiosity I used the "read VIN" option. As far as I could tell, this wouldn't do anything with the settings (I prefer to use TOAF just and only to read, not the change anything). All the VIN numbers where the same and they matched my car (if that matters at all).
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20th June 2020, 06:38 | #143 | |
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The VIN numbers would all match as your car was reconfigured with T4, and that would have written the correct VIN to the BCU. That puts the theory of different firmware in the BCU to one side at least. Brian |
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21st June 2020, 04:23 | #144 |
I really should get out more.......
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So, I guess that is a good thing then. At least that stuff seems okay.
I've asked around on 2 English Rover Facebook groups and 1 Dutch Rover forum, in the hope somebody else would be able to do some readings on their car. But I'm afraid I haven't gotten any rsponse.... So we're not any further with comparison data. On the other hand, I've discovered that the alarm sounder (not BBUS) works perfectly fine when I apply 12v to it. So it seems it doesn't get any power.... but why? TOAF says that the setting is set to "Horn". The options are: None, Battery and sounder, horn, battery and washers. Could it be there is some relay or switch between the BCU and the horn? From what I can see I should check fuse 26, 31 or maybe 28? I bring this up because I readan article on the Dutch Rover forum where somebody had a broken horn, and didn't know the bonnet switch triggered the alarm on several occasians. Eventually it drained the alarm, leaving him with an empty battery several times. I've tested the bonnet switch, and it works fine. But I won't know for sure if the horn doesn't work. On the other hand, if anybody has any ideas/tips on what to test or try next, I'm all ears. I starting to run out of ideas...
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24th June 2020, 05:22 | #145 |
I really should get out more.......
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Well, checked the horn (put 12v on it), checked the fuses (F26, F28, F31) and everything seems perfectly fine... Why does this car never want to make it easy for me?
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25th June 2020, 06:24 | #146 |
I really should get out more.......
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Well, the horn is maybe fixed. I read an article that the setting for Xenon headlights in the IPK and BCU don't go well when you don't have the BBUS installed. Seeing as I don't have the BBSU, but I do have Xenons, I checked those settings. Once I turned off Xenon headlamps in the IPK, and deactivated the headlamp washers and Xenons in the BCU settings, the horn worked again when locking the car with the door open.
However, it doesn't honk when the bonnet is open.... I'm kinda getting to the point of just giving up. Apart from the awesome help I got from Simon, Dave, Brian and a few others in this thread, it has been just me talking to myself for the last few days. Probably because has a clue what else to test. Can't blame them, I'm pretty much running out of ideas myself as well. So, if this becomes my last post in this topic, it'll be because I simply don't know where to go to from here, and I've given up. Looks like I'm buying a 100 euro new battery every 6 months...
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25th June 2020, 08:14 | #147 | |
Doesn't do things by halves
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Quote:
That's because there's not a lot more any of us can add. Your quiescent current isn't significantly different to mine. We both have periodic excursions to a higher value. In the absence of anyone else prepared to take the same readings the possibility remains that this is either normal or we both have a fault. Unfortunately our cars are not directly comparable; we have different ECMs and other equipment. My horn doesn't sound with only the bonnet open either. You don't need to buy a new battery every six months. Spend some money on a smart maintenance charger instead and use it every time the car is left for a long period. C-tek products are compact, well made and reasonably priced. I'm pleased that you raised this topic Vinnie. I had no idea that my quiescent current behaves the way it does, so thank you. Simon
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25th June 2020, 09:08 | #148 |
Posted a thing or two
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CTEK is good advice
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25th June 2020, 11:34 | #149 |
Doesn't do things by halves
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Another car tested
Hello Vinnie,
I have managed to secure the help of the owner of another Rover 75 V6 but I'm afraid it's not good news. The readings from his (unlocked) car are completely different to yours, mine and MarinaBrian's. Here they are:
So for four cars we have four different answers! Your decision to abandon the search for understanding was definitely the right one Vinnie. Simon
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25th June 2020, 16:07 | #150 |
I really should get out more.......
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Lol, these cars definately have a way of making a man scratch his beard... if only I had one.
Regardless of the outcome, I'm very thankful of the immense help you've all given me. The Dutch forum is tiny, and Facebook wasn't much more help either. As you said, I'm best to just forget about this for now and see how things go. Once the new battery comes in I'll keep a closer eye on the voltage, even though I'm still convinced that I shouldn't have too. Let's just for now say that is has something to do with age (of the car, not me... lol ).
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