Please Help

[Arctic]

Hi Tom.
When you have managed to pull on the second cable to release the bonnet as above turn over the black block so the nipples of the cable are under side of the block.
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Personally i would not cable-tie the whole assembly to the inner wing, as if for any reason it happens again you will struggle to get the assembly from the inner wing through the procedure you have been given.

You can do another mod to aid getting at the cables, in which you use to long cable ties, one around the single cable, and one around the double cables as in the photo below.

Tuck these cable ties down the edge which will then rest in front of the opening in the wheel arch
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Therefore in the future you would just need to remove the wheel arch liner flap and grab the cable ties and pull, thus bringing the cables to you through the flap gap.

This is the belt and braces approach.
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Another tip is the half moons in the latch do not grease these as it will attract dirt, if you ever remove the slam panel remove the latches take them apart and clean inside then grease inside only so they move freely.

The latches can also be eased by undoing the two 8mm bolts either side very little at a time, so the moons freely move when the cable is pulled
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[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Another tip is the half moons in the latch do not grease these as it will attract dirt ...

The reason that some people have trouble with the bonnet release system is that it hasn't been lubricated.
The white plastic tips of the strikers (which I think is what Steve is calling "half moons") are in mechanical contact with the receptacle by operating a spring loaded lever. They also need to slide along the length of the spigot against the spring tension. Such mechanical movement requires lubrication for efficiency and reliability. If these moving parts are left dry you risk the bonnet release system becoming harder to operate or failing to work at all.

The cable operated latch is situated directly behind the grille so is easily contaminated by dust and rain mixing with the lubricant and forming a thick, gritty paste as Steve mentions. That's why earlier I suggested removing it for cleaning and re-lubrication. I've had to do this only once in my 17 years of ownership.

The golden rule is that mechanical linkages need lubrication!

Simon

[suzublu]

The half moons to which Steve refers are the semi circle latches on the slam panel, which move in and out when pulling the lever Simon 😎

Sent from my SM-A326B using Tapatalk

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by suzublu

The half moons to which Steve refers are the semi circle latches on the slam panel, which move in and out when pulling the lever Simon 😎

Ah thanks Ron, as indicated by the screwdriver tip in Steve's final photograph!

Anything which moves in and out when pulling the lever requires greasing in my view.

Simon

[Arctic]

Hi Ron.
Spot on i have just finished sorting out my spare latches and bonnet strikers.

Only grease to be found is inside the latch, as in the photos below.

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Silicone spray only on the spigot and springs.
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[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Silicone spray only on the spigot and springs.

I agree, silicone spray is excellent stuff, just so long as it's lubricated!

Simon

[Kroll]

Little update.

I finally managed to get the second latch open, had to give up yesterday as I was needed elsewhere, and was on the verge of giving up this morning when finally that stubborn latch popped.

The relief when I heard the satisfying clunk was nothing short of heavenly.

Battery is now on charge, and my next job is to lubricate and clean as instructed above. The latches are very stiff, so I’m guessing this is what’s caused the cable to come loose at the splitter. I’ll also be switching the splitter around as detailed in the photos above too.

One final question of assistance re the bonnet release though. My aggressive pulling of the cables etc has unfortunately meant that the wire into the cabin has disappeared up into the bowels of the footwell, what’s the best way of removing the trim panel here to retrieve it?

Thanks for all your help so far guys, I’d have been completely lost otherwise.

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by Kroll

Little update.

I finally managed to get the second latch open, had to give up yesterday as I was needed elsewhere, and was on the verge of giving up this morning when finally that stubborn latch popped.

The relief when I heard the satisfying clunk was nothing short of heavenly.

Battery is now on charge, and my next job is to lubricate and clean as instructed above. The latches are very stiff, so I’m guessing this is what’s caused the cable to come loose at the splitter. I’ll also be switching the splitter around as detailed in the photos above too.

Hi Tom.
I am almost sure you just pop the panel off go carefully, now you have the bonnet open you should be able to reverse push the cable back into the footwell from the engine bay, then re-attach it to the lever.

[Kroll]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Tom.
I am almost sure you just pop the panel off go carefully, now you have the bonnet open you should be able to reverse push the cable back into the footwell from the engine bay, then re-attach it to the lever.

Thanks, got it off and have found the cable nicely, just a matter of sticking everything back together now, I hope. But fading daylight has curtailed my work.

Managed to hook the battery back up and get the car started though. So turns out it was indeed just a low battery.

[Kroll]

Well, I put everything back together this afternoon. It all works, but I’m not sure I entirely trust it not to go on the wonk again. Even after cleaning up the latches and lubricating them etc they are still quite stiff, so I think at some point I’m going to need to get the slam panel off and give them a good seeing to.

Car is needed over the busy Christmas period though, so it’ll have to do for now.

Thanks again to all who have posted with help and tips.