Rear suspension upper wishbone corrosion - Page 2

xsport · 21st January 2022, 19:48

your rose bushes will be badly worn (link bushes ) ... almost a certainty. get those and new bolts and nuts for them . they will probably be seized in their castings. if it was me i would renew all bolts and nuts both sides top and bottom arms. its a job that you dont want to be left in the middle half way through without parts. its better to have than have not. provided the subframe is ok , you then hopefully wont have to revisit the job again for quite some time. make sure as trikey has mentioned , they will have done the job before. if the alloy trailing arms need to come off to have the link bushes pressed out and new ones pressed in , then the angle of the main rubbers at the pivot bolts needs to be correct. it is best to avoid removing the alloy trailing arms if at all possible, as you may have lots of issues. ideally they should be able to remove the link bushes in situ if they have good tooling. even if you dont want to replace these link bushes , you may have to, especially if the bolts inside them are corroded to the bush inners. please go prepared ...

xsport · 21st January 2022, 19:54

when you buy the arms from DMGRS , they will come with bushes already at one end . check with mat for the other ends. nuts and bolts i believe should be stamped 10.8 .and get the arms waxoiled inside or similar rustproofing. good luck .

roverbarmy · 21st January 2022, 20:00

A good soaking of plus gas on the captive nuts helps on the days before you do them.

xsport · 21st January 2022, 20:48

last time i looked on rimmers the captive nuts were unavailable. if they do spin its subframe off for access. you could use other nuts provided they are up to spec , but the retainer cage may need fettling flush. fingers crossed . mine came out ok luckily. the subframe can be dropped with two rear bolts only holding to allow access for removal of the bolts. i soaked mine well beforehand with plusgas and a flexi tube. its awkward to get at the bolts on the subframe but doable. lets just hope things go well and you dont have issues .

stocktake · 21st January 2022, 21:15

The secret with the captive nuts on the inboard fixing of the upper arms is back and forth slowly slowly. initially they will crack quite easily but as you undo them you will feel them start to get harder to undo as the crud and corrosion on the thread of the bolt tries to work its way through the nut, the resistance becomes so great that the nut breaks free from its retaining clip and then your in a position where it just spins round and you need to drop the subframe.
By undoing and then retightening in spall amounts this helps breakdown the corrosion on the bolt without overwhelming the captive nut fixing.

Nantwich 75 · 30th January 2022, 13:37

Does anyone know of a garage that has the necessary experience to carry out this work?

bl52krz · 30th January 2022, 19:09

Day out at Lates 600.

21st January 2022, 20:00	#13
roverbarmy This is my second home Roverless + 1.7D Sportage Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: East Norfolk Posts: 7,050 Thanks: 729 Thanked 2,021 Times in 1,449 Posts	A good soaking of plus gas on the captive nuts helps on the days before you do them. __________________ Oil in my veins!

21st January 2022, 21:15	#15
stocktake Vis Whiz Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: LEEDS Posts: 20,587 Thanks: 2,057 Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts	The secret with the captive nuts on the inboard fixing of the upper arms is back and forth slowly slowly. initially they will crack quite easily but as you undo them you will feel them start to get harder to undo as the crud and corrosion on the thread of the bolt tries to work its way through the nut, the resistance becomes so great that the nut breaks free from its retaining clip and then your in a position where it just spins round and you need to drop the subframe. By undoing and then retightening in spall amounts this helps breakdown the corrosion on the bolt without overwhelming the captive nut fixing. __________________ Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident

30th January 2022, 19:09	#17
bl52krz This is my second home Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE Join Date: May 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 11,392 Thanks: 6,587 Thanked 2,262 Times in 1,729 Posts	Day out at Lates 600. __________________ Great Barr, Birmingham.

21st January 2022, 19:48	#11
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,646 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	your rose bushes will be badly worn (link bushes ) ... almost a certainty. get those and new bolts and nuts for them . they will probably be seized in their castings. if it was me i would renew all bolts and nuts both sides top and bottom arms. its a job that you dont want to be left in the middle half way through without parts. its better to have than have not. provided the subframe is ok , you then hopefully wont have to revisit the job again for quite some time. make sure as trikey has mentioned , they will have done the job before. if the alloy trailing arms need to come off to have the link bushes pressed out and new ones pressed in , then the angle of the main rubbers at the pivot bolts needs to be correct. it is best to avoid removing the alloy trailing arms if at all possible, as you may have lots of issues. ideally they should be able to remove the link bushes in situ if they have good tooling. even if you dont want to replace these link bushes , you may have to, especially if the bolts inside them are corroded to the bush inners. please go prepared ...

21st January 2022, 19:54	#12
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,646 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	when you buy the arms from DMGRS , they will come with bushes already at one end . check with mat for the other ends. nuts and bolts i believe should be stamped 10.8 .and get the arms waxoiled inside or similar rustproofing. good luck .

21st January 2022, 20:48	#14
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,646 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	last time i looked on rimmers the captive nuts were unavailable. if they do spin its subframe off for access. you could use other nuts provided they are up to spec , but the retainer cage may need fettling flush. fingers crossed . mine came out ok luckily. the subframe can be dropped with two rear bolts only holding to allow access for removal of the bolts. i soaked mine well beforehand with plusgas and a flexi tube. its awkward to get at the bolts on the subframe but doable. lets just hope things go well and you dont have issues .

30th January 2022, 13:37	#16
Nantwich 75 Loves to post Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Nantwich Posts: 269 Thanks: 102 Thanked 31 Times in 23 Posts	Does anyone know of a garage that has the necessary experience to carry out this work?