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21st October 2020, 18:08 | #61 | |
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75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010
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Quote:
Step two (helps) prevent debris being flushed through, it is not essential. It doesn't hold much at all, less than half a teacup. Best to use 4 which is also suitable for the brakes.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
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22nd October 2020, 14:40 | #62 |
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Blown it
Well that's blown it.
I couldn't get my bleed pipe contraption to join up with the gold 'quick release'* connector because it wouldn't go over the white split sleeve (I tried everything!). * The term 'quick release' is used sarcastically. So I thought I'd take the sleeve off temporarily to see if anything else was jamming - it wasn't and the two halves slid together without any effort. Of course now I can't separate them again because the rib on the gold half is locked in behind the ring of tangs in the yellow half and there's no way of releasing it again. The only thing I can do now is buy a new master cylinder. That's it - my patience has run out with this ******* money pit of a car. |
22nd October 2020, 14:56 | #63 |
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Can you split the ring to fit it on and release the coupling ?
Kev Last edited by Kev75; 23rd October 2020 at 04:28.. Reason: missing word |
22nd October 2020, 15:02 | #64 |
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Sure can, the originals had a split in them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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22nd October 2020, 16:34 | #65 |
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Assuming you mean split the white sleeve, the answer is no, because dimension B is bigger than dimension A - hence there's not enough room to get it on, let alone slide it in.
I'd like to meet the idiot that designed this god awful coupling device. Then I'd like to meet the other idiot who decided it was a good idea to put the MC right in front of (and touching) a vent tube, which it has worn a hole in all by itself. It's pathetic! |
22nd October 2020, 17:15 | #66 |
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Right now I have seen it can you cut some strips of thin plastic to push in around the coller? there is usually more than one way to skin a cat!!!(no animals were harmed in this idea)
Kev |
22nd October 2020, 22:05 | #67 |
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sorry to hear your woes Blink...give it a day or so and try again.
kev's idea doesn't seem bad... or maybe cut down that white ring slightly and Jimmy it in? I know it's disheartening but your almost there...keep going!! |
23rd October 2020, 12:47 | #68 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
I tried making a narrower/thinner sleeve from a heavy plastic document cover cut down to dimension A above. It didn't work - it wouldn't go in straight and jammed up on the skew. Cutting individual strips from the same stuff didn't work either - there are too many tangs and they all have to be pushed at the same time. Then I filed the white sleeve down so it fits dimension A. That didn't work because now it's not wide enough to reach the tangs and it if you try pushing it in further it just gets skewed again. So I've given up trying to rescue the situation and I've cut the pipe off at the bulkhead - good riddance to that dumb connector. The MC fixings are just as bad (2 x M6x25 FS106257). They're so close the aircon pipes that you can't get a spanner onto the rear one. An 8mm socket on a ratchet is too big and a ring or open ended won't reach the rear bolt because it doesn't go round corners. That's probably why the rear bolt on mine wasn't tightened at all! Rear bolt on the left here. There was 30-35ml of fluid inside the MC. And five or six times as much muck as this underneath the rubber. That paper towel is still soaking wet so the amount of muck is actually worse than it looks in the pic. |
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23rd October 2020, 15:01 | #69 |
This is my second home
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Rather than cut that pipe close to the MC, an easier way would have been to tap the roll pin out. It is easy to push out, once the MC is released and pulled down. The roll pin retains the union on the end of the black plastic pipe.
You see in your photo, why I suggest the rubber diaphragm takes up so much fluid capacity in the MC and why I suggest cutting it?
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
23rd October 2020, 16:33 | #70 | ||
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Quote:
£124.10 down the drain. Quote:
The rubber diaphragm takes up so much volume in the MC there's hardly any space left for fluid.* Plus, you have to take it out to bleed the slave otherwise it'll block the fluid flow from the pressurised Sealey/Gunson. (* I syringed just 30-35mm out). There's a level marker inside the MC - presumably you're supposed to check it using a finger, or maybe detach one eyeball and dangle it over the damned cylinder. What they should have done is this (post 12 diagram) - but that would have been far too sensible so they didn't bother. |
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