What I did with my Rover 75/MG ZT today? - Page 1188

trikey · 27th August 2020, 16:54

Get in touch with Big Russ, he can provide you with a back up ecu should it die in the future.

bl52krz · 27th August 2020, 19:33

Well I don’t know what I have done to my car today, but the engine light has come on and it is running like a cement mixer, missing. lack of power sometimes not changing gears properly because of the change in torque from the miss firing. No bangs, just missing a beat.Managed to get home in pouring rain, so tomorrow I will be having a look at plugs first, then coils then injectors. Got a feeling it is probably either coils or injector.............hopefully.

Mogart · 27th August 2020, 21:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by trikey

Get in touch with Big Russ, he can provide you with a back up ecu should it die in the future.

Thanks trikey good idea.

SideValve · 29th August 2020, 18:27

Fitted a new osf wishbone bush. Managed to get away without removing the undertray or undoing anything other than the wheel and the two bolts. But my word its a pain getting the first of those two back in again while the wishbone is connected.
Thats the 2nd advisory sorted. Polish the headlamps next.

roverbarmy · 29th August 2020, 18:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by SideValve

my word its a pain getting the first of those two back in again while the wishbone is connected.

All done from the outside! Wow! Well done.

xsport · 29th August 2020, 19:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by goltho

Looks great. Did you fit the boot badge?

Dougie.

not just the badge dougie its the boot plinth as well.pre project drive version. my 75 has this plinth and separate boot badge and its 02 my friends 52 plate has the project drive (all in one plinth and badge ) version. not as nice in my opinion ... but each to his own as they say !!

Mr bountyfull · 29th August 2020, 20:53

Fixed the cables for the bonnet release after they fail to open the bonnet. I used a heat gun and an adjustable spanner to close the "spread" on the plastic cover at the single wire end. I then drilled and bolted through the plastic cover to prevent the "spread" re-concurring.

With wheel arch cover off I wire brush any rust off. I then applied a rust converter then sprayed the area with ACF-50. Then I noticed a broken spring. Set of front spring now on order from Rimmers Bros.

Rich in Vancouver · 29th August 2020, 21:57

Burned out bulb warning.
Best feature ever!

Pauldee · 29th August 2020, 22:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pauldee

When I got into the car today, I thought there was a bit of a pong in the air, it was only then I noticed the addition of a new swimming pool.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...1&d=1598118803

Following an in-depth investigation, I identified the sunroof drainpipe as the culprit. Why manufacturers choose to install drainpipe joins in the passenger compartment is beyond me and if anyone has the answer to that I would very much like to hear it.

Anyway, seat out, remove trim, carpet up and the unenviable task of mopping up the water. ( I have done this water removal jobbie before on a previous Rover 75, it was a scuttle clip that had moved - mental note to check the scuttle clips, although there are no tell-tale signs behind the glove box, so I am living in hope that it's only the sun roof drain)

Probably removed about a half-gallon of water, squeezed the sponge followed by a wet and dry vacuum. It is drying but will probably take a few days before I can replace the carpet etc.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...1&d=1598118803

Happy days - although I am glad that I discovered the issue now and not in the depths of winter.

My car is now back together. Re-secured the sunroof drains, both sides inside front and back. Checked the drains under the car and all four still had their duck bills which were promptly removed. Additionally I check the plenum, a small amount of leaves had settled at the bottom of the plenum but the driver’s side drain was completely blocked, attacked it from underneath and would you believe it all three drains had their duck bills still in place, they have gone now.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...1&d=1598739103

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...1&d=1598739103

While the carpet was up I took the opportunity to install two power cables leading from the fuse box (accessory pins, both ignition and permanent ordered from www.vehicleproducts.co.uk - an Aladdin’s cave for hard to find (locally, that is) car bits ) for the addition of an accessory socket in the load area to run a small fridge (my car is a tourer) and one power and RCA cable for if I decide to mount a subwoofer. Ordered and fitted new clips for missing items for the trim and for both the carpet and cills.

Did a silly thing though, usually when I dismantle something, I will put the screws/panels loosely back in position, that is if they are not going to get in the way, so I don't lose anything. Well, I replaced all the trim panels, installed the lower vent finisher on the panel, passenger side, next to the transmission tunnel (transmission tunnels - ah the good old days). Came to fit the driver’s side and could I find the darn thing, no I could not. Looked inside the car - nothing, pulled the garage apart - nothing, checked the back room where I stored all the seat etc. - nothing. Had the thought that it may have been picked up with the radio wiring when I was doing the RCA cable, didn't really fancy taking that part again but needs must. First though I had a look at the photos I had taken to see if I could, maybe, locate the illusive vent finisher - I couldn't see it although, looking at the photos of both panels I was wondering why they looked different. It was then I realised what I had done. I had replaced the driver’s side over the trim finisher (where I had put it for safe keeping). Panel off, remove finisher and install correctly - duh.

It has been a long week

kelvo · 30th August 2020, 12:32

Changed the o/s front indicator, so it matched the n/s one. When I first bought the car, the n/s was full of moisture and lost it's silver coating. For some reason I only bought one to replace this and the o/s one always looked dull and mis matched.

I saw a pair of new ones on ebay for the price Rimmers etc sell just one so bought them, and some silver coat bulbs a few months ago. Finally got around to fitting them. Looks much better now.

As it happens, I took the lamp I removed and gave it a polish and it came up good as new so I have a couple of spares now.

27th August 2020, 16:54	#11871
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,773 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	Get in touch with Big Russ, he can provide you with a back up ecu should it die in the future. __________________ Lest we forget..

27th August 2020, 19:33	#11872
bl52krz This is my second home Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE Join Date: May 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 11,394 Thanks: 6,587 Thanked 2,262 Times in 1,729 Posts	Well I don’t know what I have done to my car today, but the engine light has come on and it is running like a cement mixer, missing. lack of power sometimes not changing gears properly because of the change in torque from the miss firing. No bangs, just missing a beat.Managed to get home in pouring rain, so tomorrow I will be having a look at plugs first, then coils then injectors. Got a feeling it is probably either coils or injector.............hopefully. __________________ Great Barr, Birmingham.

29th August 2020, 18:27	#11874
SideValve Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Oxford Posts: 767 Thanks: 141 Thanked 204 Times in 141 Posts	Fitted a new osf wishbone bush. Managed to get away without removing the undertray or undoing anything other than the wheel and the two bolts. But my word its a pain getting the first of those two back in again while the wishbone is connected. Thats the 2nd advisory sorted. Polish the headlamps next. __________________ The Story So Far: Austin A35, Morris Oxford, Triumph Herald, Mini 850, Mini 1000, Austin Allegro, MG Midget, MGB GT, Rover SD1 2600, Austin Maxi, Rover 200, Rover 825, Rover 800, Bedford TK, Range Rover 3.9 efi, Rover 400, Rover 100, MGF, Rover 25, Rover 75 1.8, Rover 75 Connoisseur SE 2.0 V6, MGF 1.8i, Rover 75 Connoisseur 2.0 V6 Auto, Morris Eight Series E, Morris Minor 1275.

29th August 2020, 21:57	#11878
Rich in Vancouver Gets stuck in MG ZT-T Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: White Rock, BC on Canada's Pacific Coast Posts: 850 Thanks: 338 Thanked 367 Times in 210 Posts	Burned out bulb warning. Best feature ever! __________________ ZT-T190, Anthracite, LHD, Left the Line on June 24, 2002, Sold new in Switzerland, spent time in Germany, Imported to Canada in September 2021

29th August 2020, 20:53	#11877
Mr bountyfull Gets stuck in MGZTV8 Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Newbury Posts: 567 Thanks: 173 Thanked 82 Times in 58 Posts	Fixed the cables for the bonnet release after they fail to open the bonnet. I used a heat gun and an adjustable spanner to close the "spread" on the plastic cover at the single wire end. I then drilled and bolted through the plastic cover to prevent the "spread" re-concurring. With wheel arch cover off I wire brush any rust off. I then applied a rust converter then sprayed the area with ACF-50. Then I noticed a broken spring. Set of front spring now on order from Rimmers Bros.

30th August 2020, 12:32	#11880
kelvo Gets stuck in MG ZT 190 SE Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Chatham, Kent Posts: 569 Thanks: 22 Thanked 163 Times in 135 Posts	Changed the o/s front indicator, so it matched the n/s one. When I first bought the car, the n/s was full of moisture and lost it's silver coating. For some reason I only bought one to replace this and the o/s one always looked dull and mis matched. I saw a pair of new ones on ebay for the price Rimmers etc sell just one so bought them, and some silver coat bulbs a few months ago. Finally got around to fitting them. Looks much better now. As it happens, I took the lamp I removed and gave it a polish and it came up good as new so I have a couple of spares now.