Lower arm removal

simondhopkins · 21st July 2017, 16:21

Whats the best way to remove the front lower arm?

EastPete · 21st July 2017, 17:28

Crack the outer hub pinch bolt joint, then remove the 18mm rear bush housing bolts, then I use a good quality bearing puller to split the taper joint on the inner ball joint into the subframe - this last joint can be tough to shift

Pete

impvan · 21st July 2017, 18:23

How i did mine...

Balljoint on the hub: lower the car onto an axle stand placed under the subframe. Use a 6' pry bar, pointy end jabbed into the axle stand, and a small ratchet strap between the arm and the bar to pull the bar into the air. Jump on the bar and the balljoint should pop out.

Rear bush: 18mm bolts, bit of a pig to get to, but OK with a good variety of spanners and socketry. ISTR the deep-offset ring was one that did it.

Balljoint on the subframe: (Assuming you're changing the whole arm) I've never found a splitter that fits.. Lower the car and support it by the balljoint's pin sat on an axle stand. A couple of swift blows to the /side/ of the subframe with a copper mallet was enough to release the taper.

Daveluck · 21st July 2017, 18:39

Check this out from Mike24

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=259434

I did it this way and found it was very easy to remove the balljoint.

To get easier access to the 18mm bush bolts, remove the roll bar bushes. It's fiddly but it allows you to lift the roll bar out of the way significantly improving access.

A flexiheaded 18mm ratchet spanner helps too.

Don't cross thread the bolts when you put the bushes back on the subframe. It is really, really easy to to that. You can guess how I know!

simondhopkins · 21st July 2017, 19:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daveluck

Check this out from Mike24

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=259434

I did it this way and found it was very easy to remove the balljoint.

To get easier access to the 18mm bush bolts, remove the roll bar bushes. It's fiddly but it allows you to lift the roll bar out of the way significantly improving access.

A flexiheaded 18mm ratchet spanner helps too.

Don't cross thread the bolts when you put the bushes back on the subframe. It is really, really easy to to that. You can guess how I know!

I read this a while ago and completely forgot about it.

SD1too · 5th April 2021, 06:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastPete

I use a good quality bearing puller to split the taper joint on the inner ball joint into the subframe - this last joint can be tough to shift.

Pete's on the money here and I have found the perfect good quality adjustable puller which, once set-up (a bit fiddly), will release the taper without damage in about one minute.

Sykes-Pickavant 0830 0000

Simon

21st July 2017, 16:21	#1
simondhopkins Loves to post Vauxhall Vectra C Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Burnley Posts: 445 Thanks: 179 Thanked 88 Times in 62 Posts	Lower arm removal Whats the best way to remove the front lower arm?

21st July 2017, 17:28	#2
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	Crack the outer hub pinch bolt joint, then remove the 18mm rear bush housing bolts, then I use a good quality bearing puller to split the taper joint on the inner ball joint into the subframe - this last joint can be tough to shift Pete

21st July 2017, 18:23	#3
impvan Avid contributor ZT-T Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: In the trees, near Caernarfon... and frequently Aberdeenshire, and sometimes Romania.. Posts: 143 Thanks: 5 Thanked 36 Times in 29 Posts	How i did mine... Balljoint on the hub: lower the car onto an axle stand placed under the subframe. Use a 6' pry bar, pointy end jabbed into the axle stand, and a small ratchet strap between the arm and the bar to pull the bar into the air. Jump on the bar and the balljoint should pop out. Rear bush: 18mm bolts, bit of a pig to get to, but OK with a good variety of spanners and socketry. ISTR the deep-offset ring was one that did it. Balljoint on the subframe: (Assuming you're changing the whole arm) I've never found a splitter that fits.. Lower the car and support it by the balljoint's pin sat on an axle stand. A couple of swift blows to the /side/ of the subframe with a copper mallet was enough to release the taper.

21st July 2017, 18:39	#4
Daveluck Gets stuck in 75 saloon 2.0 diesel Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Panton, lugo, Galicia Posts: 945 Thanks: 236 Thanked 192 Times in 143 Posts	Check this out from Mike24 https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=259434 I did it this way and found it was very easy to remove the balljoint. To get easier access to the 18mm bush bolts, remove the roll bar bushes. It's fiddly but it allows you to lift the roll bar out of the way significantly improving access. A flexiheaded 18mm ratchet spanner helps too. Don't cross thread the bolts when you put the bushes back on the subframe. It is really, really easy to to that. You can guess how I know!