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24th October 2020, 01:32 | #11 | |
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It will need at least 3 hours to dry out on a good warm day, you can help the process by swinging back and forth to get excess water droplets out, you can also use an old rag on some wire to wipe it out, or ask your wife, partner, girlfriend, if you can use the hair drier and use that on the low heat to dry it out. Always remember that the MAP sensor and the seal must be removed from the maniflod before cleaning.
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " |
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31st December 2020, 17:53 | #12 |
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MG ZT-T 190 Monogram Typhoon Join Date: Jan 2009
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Evening Steve. I've bought myself a diesel 75 fixer upper, and have been working on it today. The EGR valve was caked in crud which I've cleaned out, but I was guessing that I should be able to manually move the valve once it's been cleaned? I seems to be stuck solid. Do you have any of your excellent picture posts showing operation at all please?
Found one of your posts here. https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...64&postcount=9 Thanks in advance! Ben. |
31st December 2020, 18:30 | #13 | ||
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I doubt the Hulk would move the valve, i have tried lots of times, even putting it in a vice, but as soon as you get vacuum on it then it will move, so do not worry to much, once you have cleaned the EGR manifold out, and wiped the MAP sensor, and its all back on the car, rev the car at 3000rpm for about 20 seconds take foot of pedal and you will hear the EGR change tone. No point in just cleaning the EGR on its own though the manifold & MAP need sorting out as well. Change the PCV filter also at the same time as doing the air filter, change the fuel filter if not had one in the last 2 years, check all the vacuum hoses from the EGR and the solenoid for any chaffing or splits. Plenums are most important on a diesel more so that a petrol version, does it have an under bonnet fuel pump, if so is it quite or noisy, if under bonnet pump present do not let the fuel go below the 1/4 mark.
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " |
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31st December 2020, 19:02 | #14 |
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MG ZT-T 190 Monogram Typhoon Join Date: Jan 2009
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Thanks for that Steve!
I've only had it a couple of weeks, and it's not on the road just yet. It has accident damage which has turned out to be worse than first thought unfortunately so just trying to weigh up how to proceed, but I'll take a look at the MAF and manifold as you recommend. Also good to know about the EGR, though I'm surprised it isn't easier to move. The plenum was the first thing I checked, and sure enough it was flooded, the water level just below the ECU so just rescued in time. I intend to change oil, air and fuel filter and oil once I've made my mind up. Unfortunately my company has closed the site I've been working at, so my weekly commute has gone from around 20 miles a week to around 350. Last edited by Typhoon190; 31st December 2020 at 19:05.. |
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