coolant change

[afcbadam]

can any body tell me how to drain down the coolant system and refill it correctly. i.e is there a drain point or do i disconnect a low hose, blead the air out ect. does it have to be vacuum filled or is that just the kv6. can any one confirm its a 50/50 mix of coolant and water.

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by afcbadam

is there a drain point or do i disconnect a low hose

You must release the heater return hose at the rear of the engine and the large hose at the bottom of the radiator. Refit both when empty.

does it have to be vacuum filled or is that just the kv6.

Vacuum filling is the preferred method for all models, but you can do it the conventional way. You just have to be careful about trapping air in the system. The Haynes manual describes the DIY method of bleeding it.

can any one confirm its a 50/50 mix of coolant and water.

Yes, it's 50/50 mixture. The specified additive type is OAT (Organic Acid Technology) which is pink/orange in colour.

TC

[Brerrabbit]

You can buyn the OAT coolant at Halfords. Doesnt cost much. Brerrabbit

[afcbadam]

do you have the haynes book. what does it say on how to blead the air.
do you mean the heater hose that comes through the bulkhead and goes to the thermostat
thanks adam

[Brerrabbit]

To Empty system .Remove engine top cover. Remove undertray. remove drain plug on cylinder block front engine near exhast downpipe.When empty replace with some Loctite smeared on and to correct torque .undo bottom rad hose .When empty replace hose with preferably new jubillee clip. OK , Haynes says when filling. For V6 , Remove bleed screw in coolant hose between engine and air cleaner. Release clip securing expansion tank to rad and swing it bacwards and unhook side mounting pegs. Expansion tank raised as high as hoses allow, Slowly fill system keeping expansion tank full to just below neck until coolant emerges from bleed screw in steady sream. Fit and secure bleed screw.with tank still rtaised continue to fill until level settles just below filler neck. lower bottle and secure again. leave cap off for now.shut aircon off. start engine and run at fast idle .Top up as necessary .when level rises due to heat ,refit cap. Keep at fast idle until cooling fan cuts in then reduce to normal tickover til fan stops.Switch off motor and let cool (preferable overnight.) Check all connections disturbed. when cold check levels and if necessary topup to max mark. You have to watch very carefully for airlocks ,i.e. cold air from heater col hoses etc. overheating caused by these are invaribly damaging to youre pride and joy. I take no responsibility for this information or its use. Good Luck. brerrabbit.

[afcbadam]

is the same for a 1.8T. is there only one bleed screw on the system. cant i just undo the hose that im replaceing fit the new hose and top up the coolant using the bleed screw to get the air out that way i dont have to drain the whole system. if theres water in the system can i still get air in there.
how many bleeds are there on the car. is it just the 8mm bleed. is there a bleed for the heater or the radiator or anything

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by afcbadam

is the same for a 1.8T. is there only one bleed screw on the system.

The V6 and 1.8 are different. There's no drain plug on the 1.8. You must remove the hoses as described earlier.

cant i just undo the hose that im replaceing fit the new hose and top up the coolant using the bleed screw to get the air out that way i dont have to drain the whole system.

You said you were changing the coolant. Replacing a hose without a coolant change is different.

if theres water in the system can i still get air in there.

Yes, it depends on how much draining you've done before refilling.

how many bleeds are there on the car. is it just the 8mm bleed.

The 1.8 engine has a bleed valve at the rear near the dipstick. Remove the hose from the bleed valve so you can attach some plastic tubing to blow it through and ensure it's clear. Replace the hose and then slacken the bleed screw situated in the hose standing between the engine and the air filter. Refill as already described.

is there a bleed for the heater or the radiator or anything

No, only the system described above. The radiator will bleed into the header tank automatically. During the refill, massage the fat hoses to expell any air bubbles.

TC

[afcbadam]

thanks tc. ill be changing it wed as that is when im picking up the hose. hopefully i dont have any problems

[pondweed]

another Q:
the Club info sheets state 4.1 litres antifreeze for the diesel at 50%...
does that mean the system is 8.2 litres...
or that I need to put 2.05 litres of the red liquid in!

I think the system has been refilled just with water.... what is easiest way of introducing the red stuff without creating too many air locks as I guess I dont need to do a full removal?

[Pedro]

Originally Posted by pondweed

another Q:
the Club info sheets state 4.1 litres antifreeze for the diesel at 50%...
does that mean the system is 8.2 litres...
or that I need to put 2.05 litres of the red liquid in!

I think the system has been refilled just with water.... what is easiest way of introducing the red stuff without creating too many air locks as I guess I dont need to do a full removal?

The handbook says the system holds 8.2 litres. If you have just got plain water in the system, personally I would have it all out and refill with distilled water and anti freeze in the correct proportions. However, others with more knowledge may disagree.