ZT 1.8t coolant hose help needed

timber01 · 12th April 2009, 19:43

Hi there, I'm fairly new to the forums so I'm sorry if I'm repeating anyone.

I've noticed a fairly bad leak from my cooling system (no surprise there) I've managed to narrow it down to the section between the turbo and the small T-Piece to the right (number 4 in the image below).

It appears when the turbo was replaced 6 months ago the jubilee clip was positioned incorrectly and has cut clean through the pipe.

I was wondering if the hose here http://siliconhoses.com/content.asp?...022M&cat=0022M or http://viper-performance.co.uk/produ...t=2967&mat=104 would be a suitable replacement? If so would anyone know the dimension the pipe would have to be to fit?

Hope someone can help :lol:

Ratdogfink · 12th April 2009, 20:22

Hi
The pipe has quite a sharp bend and I think it is thicker at joint 22 on the drawing. I took mine off today but left it connected at joint 22 but it did look thicker there. I could not get the original clip back on so I used a jubilee clip. There is not a lot of room and the bend is very sharp and happens almost straight away after leaving the joint. If fitting a none standard hose you will have to make sure the new pipe does no kink here. My hoses were badly fitted and above joint 22 was rubbing on the vacuum hose connected to the front of the turbo. The hose here was starting to wear through. This was due mainly to a poorly fitted hose 4 at the turbo joint. It's close to the back of the rad too! I will try to look tomorrow if joint 22 is thicker as I haven't finished yet.

timber01 · 12th April 2009, 20:40

That would be a great help if you could, I unfortunately don't have any way of getting far enough under the car to see myself.

After reading all the posts about the trouble with the cooling system I was wondering about replacing the lot with bespoke silicone. If it is the case however that the hose is larger at one end, do you know the best place to lay my hands on an original?

T-Cut · 12th April 2009, 21:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by timber01

I was wondering if the hose here http://siliconhoses.com/content.asp?...022M&cat=0022M or http://viper-performance.co.uk/produ...t=2967&mat=104 would be a suitable replacement?

I doubt any of those listed would be of any use, they are all too large in the bore. The coolant hose from the turbo to the upper T-piece (Item 7 in the drawing) has a nominal 8mm bore. This fits the connection labelled Item 3. The other connection to the turbo will logically be the same bore so I believe the pipe shown as Item 4 will also be 8mm bore. I doubt it has a larger end. I think it maybe looks fatter due to being on the connector (Item 9).

Quote:

If so would anyone know the dimension the pipe would have to be to fit?

I'd say you need 8mm bore, but can't comment on the number of bends or how sharp they must be. The best bet frankly is to use the OEM hose. That will be preshaped as necessary. It's often impossible to fit straight pipes in place of OEM stuff with acute bends.

You'll get one from Rimmers or any Xpart depot.
Here's Rimmer's info:
Part Number PEH000510
Description HOSE - T PIECE TO TURBO
Retail Price £40.26 inc. VAT (£35.01 exc. VAT)

jcwatrichmond · 13th April 2009, 08:29

T-cut,
I'm amazed at how much useful information you can always lay your hands (or your memory) on.
Do you know if it's possible to use copper parts in the cooling system Say, T pieces or 90deg bends? If so it would be easy to use silicone tubing that seems to be superior to conventional tubing.

John Wright

timber01 · 13th April 2009, 10:33

That's brill T-cut thanks for the info, turns out there's an Xpart depot close by but unfortunately closed today.

That's what I was thinking also John, by the looks of things the cost may even be down on the OEM parts.

T-Cut · 13th April 2009, 10:39

I think copper parts would be OK from an internal corrosion standpoint. Whether such a DIY job would be successful depends on your plumbing skills and whether the silicone pipes have the right bore/flexibility to do a good job. I don't think the type with a metal wire reinforcement would NOT be very good, but I've never worked with silicone pipes. Ordinary 'string' type reinforced silicone rubber would do a good job I guess. Personally, I'd stick with the OEM pipework but if you're looking for a challenge, it's worth a shot.

TC

EDIT: Yes the stuff shown in timber01's photo looks good.

eskezz · 13th April 2009, 13:07

I've just got part no 10 in your diagram from Les at SMC for £24 delivered
(e bay). Try him first-listed on this site-you never know.

Ratdogfink · 13th April 2009, 14:45

Yes pipe 4 at juction 22 is larger. There is no way you could get it on this spigot if the pipe was the same bore all the way through. Any automotive pipe should go onto a spigot the same size as the bore. May be a lip to help the clip to hold. A coolant hose of 8mm bore can not go onto a larger spigot without tearing the renforcing fibers, so it is bigger at 22. OD of pipe aprox 23mm, OD pipe at 22 29mm, OD of pipe at turbo spigot 23mm. So at junction 22 the pipe is 6mm larger. Just get the proper one from Rimmer Xpart or SMC. I got item 10 SMC £20 proper price £69.

Ratdogfink · 13th April 2009, 15:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Cut

The coolant hose from the turbo to the upper T-piece (Item 7 in the drawing) has a nominal 8mm bore. This fits the connection labelled Item 3. The other connection to the turbo will logically be the same bore so I believe the pipe shown as Item 4 will also be 8mm bore. I doubt it has a larger end. I think it maybe looks fatter due to being on the connector (Item 9).

I'd say you need 8mm bore, but can't comment on the number of bends or how sharp they must be. The best bet frankly is to use the OEM hose. That will be preshaped as necessary. It's often impossible to fit straight pipes in place of OEM stuff with acute bends.

You'll get one from Rimmers or any Xpart depot.
Here's Rimmer's info:
Part Number PEH000510
Description HOSE - T PIECE TO TURBO
Retail Price £40.26 inc. VAT (£35.01 exc. VAT)

Don't think that item 4 is anywhere near 8MM inner bore. There is a relationship between pressure, flow and bore. If you queeze the end on the garden hose it squirts further, pressure in the hose goes up and flow is reduced. The same here, item 4 is a much larger bore going into the turbo pressure goes up so coolant stays in longer and flow reduces with a resultant increase in pressure back to the 8mm bore tee pice, thus lower pressure in higher pressure out and therefor flow. If it were the same bore there would either be no flow or it may flow backward as pressure is the same at both points. If pressure was the same at both points no flow. The pipe 4 at turbo is much larger that 8mm bore and at 22 the same thing happens with a larger outlet than turbo inlet. (don't pay £40 for a small length of hose from T to turbo, the return from turbo is a metal pipe turning into flexable hose just before t pice as engine vibrates and a metal one would break. Flexi coolant hose about £4 halfords for 1 meter, about 200mm needed, about a quid from any good car parts shop.

12th April 2009, 19:43	#1
timber01 Newbie MG ZT 1.8t Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Devon Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	ZT 1.8t coolant hose help needed Hi there, I'm fairly new to the forums so I'm sorry if I'm repeating anyone. I've noticed a fairly bad leak from my cooling system (no surprise there) I've managed to narrow it down to the section between the turbo and the small T-Piece to the right (number 4 in the image below). It appears when the turbo was replaced 6 months ago the jubilee clip was positioned incorrectly and has cut clean through the pipe. I was wondering if the hose here http://siliconhoses.com/content.asp?...022M&cat=0022M or http://viper-performance.co.uk/produ...t=2967&mat=104 would be a suitable replacement? If so would anyone know the dimension the pipe would have to be to fit? Hope someone can help :lol:

12th April 2009, 20:22	#2
Ratdogfink Loves to post 1 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: 1 Posts: 336 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Hi The pipe has quite a sharp bend and I think it is thicker at joint 22 on the drawing. I took mine off today but left it connected at joint 22 but it did look thicker there. I could not get the original clip back on so I used a jubilee clip. There is not a lot of room and the bend is very sharp and happens almost straight away after leaving the joint. If fitting a none standard hose you will have to make sure the new pipe does no kink here. My hoses were badly fitted and above joint 22 was rubbing on the vacuum hose connected to the front of the turbo. The hose here was starting to wear through. This was due mainly to a poorly fitted hose 4 at the turbo joint. It's close to the back of the rad too! I will try to look tomorrow if joint 22 is thicker as I haven't finished yet.

12th April 2009, 20:40	#3
timber01 Newbie MG ZT 1.8t Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Devon Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	That would be a great help if you could, I unfortunately don't have any way of getting far enough under the car to see myself. After reading all the posts about the trouble with the cooling system I was wondering about replacing the lot with bespoke silicone. If it is the case however that the hose is larger at one end, do you know the best place to lay my hands on an original?

13th April 2009, 08:29	#5
jcwatrichmond Loves to post Rover 75 1.8T 2003 Club SE Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Solihull, Posts: 370 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	T-cut, I'm amazed at how much useful information you can always lay your hands (or your memory) on. Do you know if it's possible to use copper parts in the cooling system Say, T pieces or 90deg bends? If so it would be easy to use silicone tubing that seems to be superior to conventional tubing. John Wright

13th April 2009, 10:33	#6
timber01 Newbie MG ZT 1.8t Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Devon Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	That's brill T-cut thanks for the info, turns out there's an Xpart depot close by but unfortunately closed today. That's what I was thinking also John, by the looks of things the cost may even be down on the OEM parts.

13th April 2009, 10:39	#7
T-Cut This is my second home Rover75 and Mreg Corsa. Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sumweer onat mote o'dust (Sagin) Posts: 21,754 Thanks: 341 Thanked 3,660 Times in 2,924 Posts	I think copper parts would be OK from an internal corrosion standpoint. Whether such a DIY job would be successful depends on your plumbing skills and whether the silicone pipes have the right bore/flexibility to do a good job. I don't think the type with a metal wire reinforcement would NOT be very good, but I've never worked with silicone pipes. Ordinary 'string' type reinforced silicone rubber would do a good job I guess. Personally, I'd stick with the OEM pipework but if you're looking for a challenge, it's worth a shot. TC EDIT: Yes the stuff shown in timber01's photo looks good.

13th April 2009, 13:07	#8
eskezz Loves to post rover 75 saloon Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: st helens Posts: 261 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	I've just got part no 10 in your diagram from Les at SMC for £24 delivered (e bay). Try him first-listed on this site-you never know.

13th April 2009, 14:45	#9
Ratdogfink Loves to post 1 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: 1 Posts: 336 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Yes pipe 4 at juction 22 is larger. There is no way you could get it on this spigot if the pipe was the same bore all the way through. Any automotive pipe should go onto a spigot the same size as the bore. May be a lip to help the clip to hold. A coolant hose of 8mm bore can not go onto a larger spigot without tearing the renforcing fibers, so it is bigger at 22. OD of pipe aprox 23mm, OD pipe at 22 29mm, OD of pipe at turbo spigot 23mm. So at junction 22 the pipe is 6mm larger. Just get the proper one from Rimmer Xpart or SMC. I got item 10 SMC £20 proper price £69.