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13th October 2020, 10:16 | #11 |
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I'm actually starting to hope it isn't going to be that, as it sounds like it'll be a question of taking apart everything I've just had done!
Thanks for the tip about looking behind the wheel arch liner though. That sounds easy enough, and like a good place to start. I don't *think* the tensioners were changed - it looks like it's just whatever comes in the kit, as that's all that's on the invoice. |
13th October 2020, 11:37 | #12 | |
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You could give Summit Garage a call, give the parts dept. the kit's part number from the invoice and hopefully that will put your mind at rest. The ancillary belt has to be removed for access to the timing belt so any fault there should have come to the garage's attention. What mileage has your car covered Ian? Have you investigated the simple things like an exhaust heatshield vibrating at that particular engine speed? Simon
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13th October 2020, 11:52 | #13 |
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Hi Simon,
It's done about 35k miles, so it's really low mileage all things considered. The exhaust heatshield was one of the things we've wondered about ourselves, but there doesn't seem to be any sign of anything wrong, or anywhere it might be catching/knocking. I think I'm going to have to go through everything again to try and figure it out. I did ask Summit if they could figure it out when I first took it to have the belts done five years ago, but they apparently couldn't tell where it was coming from either. Perhaps doesn't bode well for me fixing it, but at least I'm starting to make a list of potentials now! |
13th October 2020, 11:59 | #14 |
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13th October 2020, 12:15 | #15 |
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It may be worth making a recording of the noise to help with diagnosis, but if you're stumped, I would recommend a call to Russell Walsh of MG Rover Solutions.
My V6 had a knock from cold which disappeared when warm and stumped a good many experts. After 12 months of head scratching (and ££s spent), I contacted Russell at my brothers recommendation. Russell has some 40 yrs experience with MG / Rovers, and identified the noise in 2 minutes. The subsequent stripdown showed his diagnosis to be spot on, and as a bonus, his charges were more than reasonable and his work ethic 2nd to none . Cliff
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13th October 2020, 12:25 | #16 |
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Have a look at the exhaust front pipe support bracket, these are known to snap and can cause a rattle.
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13th October 2020, 16:40 | #17 | |
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Hi Cliff, Thanks for the tip, but I'm afraid I'm nowhere near Kent, so that likely won't be an option! Would you mind sharing what yours was in the end, please? |
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13th October 2020, 17:16 | #18 | |
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The knock would only occur when the engine was stone cold, and only for a few seconds (1 minute max), after which all sounded fine. Opinions ranged from tappets, main bearings, idler / tensioner noise etc, however Russell used a long screwdriver as a stethoscope and correctly identified it as piston slap. He suggested the engine would probably out live me and was nothing to worry about at this stage, but being a picky so & so I wanted the noise gone, so he pulled the engine apart and sorted it . It's worth mentioning, Russel is mobile and has been known to travel a fair distance for jobs. This week he is due to be in Liverpool (though I guess that plan may change with current restrictions). Having said that though, I guess a long trip just to listen and diagnose may not be the most economic approach. Cliff
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13th October 2020, 23:20 | #19 |
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Could you remind me please Cliff how he sorted it?
Simon
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14th October 2020, 08:00 | #20 |
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New pistons and liners, plus new main bearings (it just made sense whilst everything was in bits), new gasket set, and a new clutch.
A lot of work, but it's nice and quiet now as it should be Cliff
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