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22nd July 2021, 12:56 | #11 |
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First of all, read this: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/pages/choosi...ead-gasket-kit
You're welcome to order both types from us and return the kit you don't need. Our kits use top-quality parts, and the Cambelt Tensioner we supply is an all-metal item that is very hard to find (most have a plastic wheel) - to our knowledge all the options regarding suppliers you have mentioned use plastic. We have everything you'll need here: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/head-gasket-kits
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22nd July 2021, 18:24 | #12 | |
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It could be some months before I could return the unused item - I'd rather give it to someone to take back to the UK than try to post it from here. Is that OK? Cheers, Pete |
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22nd July 2021, 21:59 | #13 |
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23rd July 2021, 00:27 | #14 | |
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Then there is a history black hole. Last owner hasn't done anything major to it in the last 7 years (inc timing belt), apart from a starter motor fix, and new battery. I suspect he was chasing electrical issues like the central locking, but he says not. However, the engine sounds great. Everything looks commensurate with a 60K car, underneath. No knocks or unwanted sounds when driving. Not had it on a ramp yet - just crawled round to see what could. Will have it in the air in the coming week. Clutch is a bit low, but working fine currently. Perhaps needs bleeding? How much more life could be in a 60K clutch? Steering is very light and not confidence inspiring, at speed, maybe a wheel alignment issue in part? I suspect timing belt, clutch, and head gasket are all 60K miles and 23 years old. So first job is timing belt and service. It felt a little like it was being starved of fuel on acceleration, for a while, when I drove it to the paint shop, a few days back. Seemed to improve as it warmed up. any ideas? Need to investigate potential K bus issue due mainly to left hand indicator dash light out, and erratic central locking behaviour, but that could just be sticky locks? all thoughts and comments welcome |
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24th July 2021, 14:17 | #15 |
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If it now has an MLS head gasket plus shim you can tell by feeling with the tip of a finger for the shim's telltale tab. You will find a bit of it protruding ever so slightly between the head/block join at the front gearbox side. Look at the pics, the top pic shows the MLS gasket and the bottom pic shows the shim when fitted on top of it with its telltale tab bottom right. That is the area of interest as marked by the red letter X.
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24th July 2021, 15:00 | #16 | |
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24th July 2021, 16:06 | #17 |
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Leave well alone Pete!
Well, at 60,000 miles there might be a case for renewing the timing belt if the tensioning/idler pulleys are noisy but you say that the engine sounds great so they're probably fine for at least another 15,000 miles. I certainly wouldn't touch the head gasket or the water pump or the clutch unless you have a reason to do so. I would concentrate your efforts on a full service, the indicator tell-tale fault and for the steering take it for a four wheel alignment (check that the rear adjustment plate bolts aren't seized before you go). Replacing parts because you think they may fail some time in the future is usually a waste of time and money and can often result in discarding a very good part for a lower quality replacement. Good luck. Simon
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24th July 2021, 18:50 | #18 |
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Hi Simon,
Thanks for the advice. Yes I've pretty much come to that conclusion. I'll probably do the timing belt. Not really comfortable with a 20+ year old belt - especially in the climate here. Don't most manufacturers recommend changing every 5 years or so, no matter what the mileage? Clutch is a little low on the pedal, and sometimes the pedal doesn't return fully. Maybe new fluid and bleeding will sort that? I'll leave the head gasket alone, for now, but have one on the shelf as it were. I don't seem to be losing coolant, and the temp gauge needle is dead centre when the engine is hot. So, all good I think. My first K series engine. Just got a bit spooked by what I was reading I think |
25th July 2021, 07:39 | #19 | ||
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I can't help with your clutch question I'm afraid as it's been such a long time since I owned a car with a manual gearbox. Regarding the temperature gauge, this has been programmed to read "dead centre" over the range 75 to 115˚C so is virtually useless. You can obtain in your instrument pack a live digital display of the actual temperature which should be in the low to mid nineties when the car is moving. Look up T-Cut's guide to the instrument pack diagnostics to find out how to do this. Quote:
Simon
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25th July 2021, 08:09 | #20 | |
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I'll definitely get the digi temp reading sorted. Great info about the belt. I'd assumed it was recommended because of natural deterioration over time. I won't rush in to changing it immediately, in that case Cheers, Pete |
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