Help: Locking Wheel Bolt Removal

[macmac]

Originally Posted by Organiser

Mac,
I have a number 12 and a number 7 and a socket that will remove it once and for all and I pmed you my number yesterday if you want me to come over now? Tom.

Thanks Tom,
Take a look at the pics in my previous post.

[macmac]

Organiser:
Does the key-name-reference 'Number 12 Part No RRV100012'
...have any bearing on the number of splines in these bolts ?
(Because in the first-pic: I think I can count 14)
Or is is just a reference number ?

Also:
The OS bolt, (second pic) is the one I need to remove to be able to open the bonnet to charge the battery...

And it may not be obvious from my pic, but its splines seem to be missing for about the first half of their depth!

So is this a different version of the bolt, or has it been damaged ?
And if the latter, is it likely that the correct key will still work ?
I guess the only way to find out would be to try it ?

NS pic 1:


OS pic 2:


Many thanks Mac

[suzublu]

When you get them off, throw the damn things away & fit normal bolts

[macmac]

As the bonnet doesn't pop-up when I pull the bonnet release handle in the foot-well, I'm assuming it's because the splitter-box that the BRH-cable goes to, isn't pulling on the 2 cables, that go to the 2 separate bonnet catches, BUT could it just be not releasing, when I pull the BRH / and not the splitter-box?

And if so, is it likely that I can get them to release without having to get to the splitter-box?

Many thanks.

[macmac]

The saga so far:

I can't charge my battery from my cigar-lighter-socket, because the key needs to be in the Accessory-position, and the battery is to flat to power (ie: engage) the cigar lighter-relay/contact.

So I got a Locking-Nut-Key (from Trikey):
Which fits the NS-Locking-Nut (not attempted to undo it yet)
But as feared, won't easily fit into the OS-Locking-Nut, (which is the one I need to undo first) as about half of its keyway-depth has been obliterated.
I've not tried forcing it in.

I looked around on-line and found this >video<
in-which he removes the McGard-type Locking-Nut.
And a similar tool >here<

So:
Q1: ...has anyone had any experience using these on the original
(ie: No:12 / 14 splined) early Rover-75-Locking-Nut?
Q2: ...have a loose Locking-Nut that they can measure its head outside diameter?
Q3: ...know if I can I buy just one remover that fits my Rover-Locking-Nut, rather than the pack of 4 sizes shown?

NB: The current problem is with the my 2002-Diesel.
The later 2004-Petrol has the McGard-type-Locking-Nuts, that appears in good condition, but I've not attempted to remove any of those yet. That car has only ever been serviced by the main-dealer that supplied it, so hopefully they have not been over tightened.

Many thanks.

[scorpio]

I have a set of those sockets and I am in Solihull if you want to try therm out let me know

[macmac]

Originally Posted by scorpio

I have a set of those sockets and I am in Solihull if you want to try therm out let me know

Many thanks for the offer.
Have you used them on the (No:12) Rover?

[scorpio]

No I haven't I have used them on a Vauxhall and they did the job but never needed them for my Rover.

[macmac]

Originally Posted by scorpio

No I haven't I have used them on a Vauxhall and they did the job but never needed them for my Rover.

So was the Vauxhall-Locking-bolt splined like the Rover No:12, or was it like the McGard ?

Also:
I've tried measuring the head diameter of my Locking-bolt, but it's not possible to get an accurate measurement due to it being recessed into the wheel...

...so if anyone has a loose Locking-Nut could they please measure its head outside diameter?

Many thanks

[Mintee]

Not a Rover, but a mate had a Vauxhall with chewed up 'security' socket. It was a moments work to weld a 17mm nut on top of it, the heat will help loosen it too, then it is easy to remove with regular tools

You'll not be using it again though!