Rust converter?

madeupname · 6th April 2017, 07:28

Hi guys, need some advice please.
I saw a you tube vid about a Yank who undersealed his car, but before he did that he wire brushed the excess rust off and painted on rust primer.
So a couple of days ago I went looking for rust primer and found a site that sold rust converter.
Apparently it converts rust into a polymer that is waterproof and gets rid of rust for good.
What I'd like to know is, has anyone any experience of this? And would I be right in thinking that if this was used it would negate the need for underseal?
Thanks.
p.s. - I won't be able to see or reply to any answers till later tonight.

pletevl · 6th April 2017, 09:27

Rust convertors don't work very well and the rust will come back after a few months, basically it's pants.
You have to remove rust if you want rid of it, either but grinding it all off or replacing the metal or using a rust remover like DEOX GEL from BILT HAMBER.

Pete.

Muttley · 6th April 2017, 10:32

I have used good old Jenolite on some rusted metal. Make sure you give it a good beasting with a wire cup brush on an angle-grinder, then a coat of Jenolite gel, make sure you work it well into the metal pores, re-coat with the gel then wipe off.

A good anti-rust primer, normal primer and then a top coat. If you want to use Hammerite, don't, it pinholes. Smoothrite is better. Then a good layer of underseal/waxoyl.

i have used this process on the underside of my MG's, and mini's for my son, and it normally works very well. Obviously needs a check over once a year to maintain good cover.

Obviously other members may/will have other experiences.

hogweed · 6th April 2017, 10:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Muttley

Smoothrite is better

Or POR-15

mbonwick · 6th April 2017, 11:21

Basically what rust converters do is turn Iron Oxide (rust) into an Iron Phosphate complex. Which is fine, as it stops the rust, but Iron Phosphate complexs are soluble in water, so over the layer dissolves, leaving virgin metal free to dissolve again.

Nothing wrong with using it, so long as you seal & paint over it pretty much straight after, though personally I'd tend towards the grinding off of all rust.

madeupname · 6th April 2017, 17:45

Thanks for that, some good information there

Looks like I'll be waiting a bit longer as I get the materials together.
Thanks again.

T-Cut · 6th April 2017, 18:23

For areas with a superficial rust film that's left after using a wire brush, I reckon WaxOyl does a good job. There's no need for phosphoric acid type rust converters because WaxOyl has alternatives built-in and seals the converted surface in one go. Dip a rusted part in WaxOyl solution, let it drain and wait a couple of days. The rust will become a black organic film that's good to go. You can pay a lot more for upmarket versions, but they're basically similar things.

TC

oswestryalex · 6th April 2017, 23:38

The other thing you might consider depending how far you want to go with rust protection is a zinc based coating such as Isopon 182 and variants of the kind. I would use those with a waxoyl type over the top - belt and braces, especially with British weather, roads and salting! Just drove past a couple of gritters a few weeks back and could almost feel the salt on the car.... did a powerwash soon after....

scorpio · 7th April 2017, 02:47

I use aqua steel on my land rover and it is brilliant it's a bit expensive but a good coat of that and then if required a top coat and it lasts forever.

6th April 2017, 07:28	#1
madeupname Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Connie Mk2 1.8 (Mo) Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1,531 Thanks: 875 Thanked 335 Times in 289 Posts	Rust converter? Hi guys, need some advice please. I saw a you tube vid about a Yank who undersealed his car, but before he did that he wire brushed the excess rust off and painted on rust primer. So a couple of days ago I went looking for rust primer and found a site that sold rust converter. Apparently it converts rust into a polymer that is waterproof and gets rid of rust for good. What I'd like to know is, has anyone any experience of this? And would I be right in thinking that if this was used it would negate the need for underseal? Thanks. p.s. - I won't be able to see or reply to any answers till later tonight. __________________ Mo was born Tuesday, 22nd June 2004 @ 08:32:41 This vehicle was the 99,307th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 This vehicle was the 5,377th 75 1.8 Connoisseur to be made out of 6,033 This vehicle was the 783rd 75 in Firefrost Red (code: CEV) to be made out of 2,089 Firefrost Red 75s Last edited by madeupname; 6th April 2017 at 07:29.. Reason: smelling mistale.

6th April 2017, 10:32	#3
Muttley Regular poster MG ZT 190+ Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: DERBY Posts: 95 Thanks: 56 Thanked 19 Times in 14 Posts	Rust Converter I have used good old Jenolite on some rusted metal. Make sure you give it a good beasting with a wire cup brush on an angle-grinder, then a coat of Jenolite gel, make sure you work it well into the metal pores, re-coat with the gel then wipe off. A good anti-rust primer, normal primer and then a top coat. If you want to use Hammerite, don't, it pinholes. Smoothrite is better. Then a good layer of underseal/waxoyl. i have used this process on the underside of my MG's, and mini's for my son, and it normally works very well. Obviously needs a check over once a year to maintain good cover. Obviously other members may/will have other experiences.

6th April 2017, 17:45	#6
madeupname Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Connie Mk2 1.8 (Mo) Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1,531 Thanks: 875 Thanked 335 Times in 289 Posts	Thank you Thanks for that, some good information there Looks like I'll be waiting a bit longer as I get the materials together. Thanks again. __________________ Mo was born Tuesday, 22nd June 2004 @ 08:32:41 This vehicle was the 99,307th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 This vehicle was the 5,377th 75 1.8 Connoisseur to be made out of 6,033 This vehicle was the 783rd 75 in Firefrost Red (code: CEV) to be made out of 2,089 Firefrost Red 75s

7th April 2017, 02:47	#9
scorpio Loves to post 75 Tourer zircon silver Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Birmingham Posts: 270 Thanks: 47 Thanked 32 Times in 27 Posts	I use aqua steel on my land rover and it is brilliant it's a bit expensive but a good coat of that and then if required a top coat and it lasts forever. __________________ Peter Rover 75 Tourer Connoisseur CDT Auto Zircon Silver

6th April 2017, 09:27	#2
pletevl Posted a thing or two rover 75 cdti(rhd), MG ZR(lhd), MG TF(lhd), MG TF(rhd), mini mpi (lhd), Renault megane III (awful) Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: East of France Posts: 1,282 Thanks: 124 Thanked 114 Times in 93 Posts	Rust convertors don't work very well and the rust will come back after a few months, basically it's pants. You have to remove rust if you want rid of it, either but grinding it all off or replacing the metal or using a rust remover like DEOX GEL from BILT HAMBER. Pete.

6th April 2017, 11:21	#5
mbonwick Gets stuck in Connoisseur SE 1.8 Auto Saloon Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Kendal Posts: 633 Thanks: 129 Thanked 176 Times in 147 Posts	Basically what rust converters do is turn Iron Oxide (rust) into an Iron Phosphate complex. Which is fine, as it stops the rust, but Iron Phosphate complexs are soluble in water, so over the layer dissolves, leaving virgin metal free to dissolve again. Nothing wrong with using it, so long as you seal & paint over it pretty much straight after, though personally I'd tend towards the grinding off of all rust.

6th April 2017, 18:23	#7
T-Cut This is my second home Rover75 and Mreg Corsa. Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sumweer onat mote o'dust (Sagin) Posts: 21,753 Thanks: 341 Thanked 3,660 Times in 2,924 Posts	For areas with a superficial rust film that's left after using a wire brush, I reckon WaxOyl does a good job. There's no need for phosphoric acid type rust converters because WaxOyl has alternatives built-in and seals the converted surface in one go. Dip a rusted part in WaxOyl solution, let it drain and wait a couple of days. The rust will become a black organic film that's good to go. You can pay a lot more for upmarket versions, but they're basically similar things. TC

6th April 2017, 23:38	#8
oswestryalex Loves to post Rover 75 1.8T connoisseur saloon 2003 in blue , MG ZT 190+ 2003 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oswestry Posts: 308 Thanks: 159 Thanked 99 Times in 57 Posts	The other thing you might consider depending how far you want to go with rust protection is a zinc based coating such as Isopon 182 and variants of the kind. I would use those with a waxoyl type over the top - belt and braces, especially with British weather, roads and salting! Just drove past a couple of gritters a few weeks back and could almost feel the salt on the car.... did a powerwash soon after....