Rover 75 diesel MK1. Engine warning light on, engine remains at 1200 rpm

[Orgiswing]

Hello everybody

I come to you because my 75 diesel has symptoms that I do not know.

While driving, the yellow engine warning light came on and the engine remains at 1200 rpm even without accelerating.
What's odd for me is that the engine resumes idling when I step on the brake pedal?!? When I do not brake anymore, it returns to 1200 rpm.

I tested the high pressure sensor and it is not good.

But these are not the symptoms of a defective high pressure sensor, right?
What do you think about?

Thank you in advance for helping a frenchie who does not understand anything on this one.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Orgiswing

Hello everybody

I come to you because my 75 diesel has symptoms that I do not know.

While driving, the yellow engine warning light came on and the engine remains at 1200 rpm even without accelerating.
What's odd for me is that the engine resumes idling when I step on the brake pedal?!? When I do not brake anymore, it returns to 1200 rpm.

I tested the high pressure sensor and it is not good.

But these are not the symptoms of a defective high pressure sensor, right?
What do you think about?

Thank you in advance for helping a frenchie who does not understand anything on this one.

It is the throttle pedal potentiometer at fault

Brian

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by Orgiswing

What's odd for me is that the engine resumes idling when I step on the brake pedal?!? When I do not brake anymore, it returns to 1200 rpm.:

The 1200 rpm is limp mode so that you can at least get home or to a place of safety, albeit slowly.

[Orgiswing]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

It is the throttle pedal potentiometer at fault

Brian

Thank you very much.

I checked and the plugs and wiring looked ok.

If anyone has this piece to sell, I'm interested because the price of the new makes me cry.

[Orgiswing]

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

The 1200 rpm is limp mode so that you can at least get home or to a place of safety, albeit slowly.

Thank you.
Yes I have seen, and it's better than getting stuck on the side of the road.
I am lucky in my misfortune.

[Mickyboy]

Originally Posted by Orgiswing

Thank you very much.

I checked and the plugs and wiring looked ok.

If anyone has this piece to sell, I'm interested because the price of the new makes me cry.

I’m fairly sure I’m likely to have one in stock just PM me
Mick

[Orgiswing]

Thanks a lot you for your answers and suggestions about this sensor.
I placed an order on Ebay UK.
Hope that it goes.

[Mike Noc]

Hope you get the correct one - there are two versions.

[Orgiswing]

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Hope you get the correct one - there are two versions.

The number on the photograph is the same.
We'll see.

[Orgiswing]

I said, "we'll see".
And I did not see anything.
The royal mail has lost my package.
Almost a month without my car.
I'm waiting for another sensor to arrive soon. I hope.

----Edit> I find myself with the same results as the first time with TOAF /
"Sporadic" errors and still the pedal position sensor.



If I clear the faults on TOAF, the engine fault light goes off, and comes back on immediately.
And here, potentiometer connected or not.

Logically, if we have the same symptoms, the same error on TOAF, with the sensor connected or not, is that it is him. No?

Otherwise, I tested the device at the ohmmeter.
The plug consists of 6 pins, 4 on one side, 2 on the other.

The circuits intersect at the plug.


The data I get is for the original sensor: 1> 3 = 1,18 K ohm, 1> 5 = 1,09 K ohm
2> 4 = 1.58 K ohms, 2> 6 = 1.07 K ohms

for the received sensor: 1> 3 = 1,18 K ohms, 1> 5 = 1,24 K ohms
2> 4 = 1.63 K ohms, 2> 6 = 1.14 K ohms

Given the difference in resistance it seems to me that both are good. Or both are dead. ???

I hope the Google translation is not too ugly, sorry.