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23rd May 2018, 11:04 | #11 | ||
This is my second home
1.8t Tourer Join Date: Oct 2011
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Quote:
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If it's cheaper/same price as the standard and fit's well then I don't see any reason why not to fit it (on a car), If much more pricey then I wouldn't bother.
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Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk) Where?: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn Mods/Retrofits: PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors To do: puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button |
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23rd May 2018, 11:37 | #12 | |
Posted a thing or two
Mazda 6 Join Date: Dec 2013
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That's a great overview in my opinion, personally I like more on/off braking ( it never actually really is once you get used to it) as I enjoy driving and braking is just as important as accelerating - probably more so actually. If you're just cruising about though it's probably something you don't need to pay extra for as it will annoy you. |
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23rd May 2018, 11:47 | #13 |
This is my second home
MG ZT CDTi Join Date: Jan 2014
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I have braided ones waiting to be fitted, and chose braided ones after a scary experience with a non abs car years ago. At 50 a car pulled out on me, and hitting the brakes hard,they didn't lock, but rather the pedal sank a little more and more. This was actually lucky,as I retained steering and was able to swerve.
With no evidence of leakage, it was suggested that the 5 or 6 year old lines had ballooned to give the sinking pedal. They did feel soft to touch . Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
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It is not gloss primer .............. it is duct tape silver! |
23rd May 2018, 18:42 | #14 | |
This is my second home
75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010
Location: Leeds
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I regularly static pressure test my hydraulics - engine running, parked, press the brake pedal just as hard as you can. That will be far more pressure than you could possibly apply on the road, so if the pipes and flexibles survive that, they will be fine on the road.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
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25th May 2018, 13:24 | #15 |
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MG ZT-T+ Join Date: Jun 2014
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Thanks Guys, that's all been very helpful. I'll investigate the options and go from there.
Ollie |
25th May 2018, 15:06 | #16 |
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Rover75 Join Date: Dec 2012
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I have no experience of braided flexi-hoses on braking systems. However, a couple of years ago I fitted a braided fuel line to the carb. of my 1963 Rover 110. It was claimed to be resistant to ethanol in petrol. After a winter's layup I started the car and to my horror petrol was spewing from this hose. I could not see where the leak was coming from but clearly from several points along the hose's length Naturally I stopped the engine PDQ.
After removal of hose, and its braiding, I found he 'rubber' liner had deteriorated, was cracked, had the mechanical properties of a peeled banana (yes, try bending one and you will see what I mean) and snapped at several points along its length when bent. It had become hard, brittle and snapped easily Although I cannot say the cause of this deterioration was ethanol in the petrol it did show that any failure of the liner is hidden from view until a leak occurs. On the strength of this experience I will not fit braided hoses in any safety related application. Jim Lee |
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