Subframe in situ: accessing arm bolts - advice please

Blink · 14th February 2020, 14:13

Finally, there's a pause in the rain so I'm trying re-torque these bolts (one per side in each case):

Upper arm to trailing arm
Lower arm to trailing arm
Upper arm to subframe
Lower arm to subframe
Damper bottom to trailing arm

(All parts & bolts above are new).

I assembled the subframe, arms and springs off the car and torqued up 3 & 4 at the same time. Then I fitted everything to the car, which is still on blocks (all four corners).

The plan now is to loosen 1-5, jack the trailing arms up until the back of the car just lifts off the blocks, then re-torque 1-5.

The problem is I can't get a socket on #3 (upper arm to subframe bolt). A 15mm socket on a short extension won't go in via the vertical access holes because the fuel tank is in the way - and the socket on its own isn't long enough to get the ratchet on.

What does everyone else use?

NB. By "vertical access holes", I mean the ones shown below - not the other two that are parallel to the ground.

Horizontal access hole on right in this pic.

TIA.

Blink · 14th February 2020, 14:22

Actually, the 2nd pic above makes more sense like this (the horizontal access hole is now horizontal!)

Btw, ignore the bolts in the pic above, I've used the proper ones - FC112187A, M12x90 (15mm socket), nos 3 & 7 here.

macafee2 · 14th February 2020, 15:10

you don't go vertical but horizontal through the "large" round hole, see your first picture.
The short extension must be short and some standard short extensions are too long. Make sure the socket is a tight fit on the extension in case it comes off, it can be a cow to get out of the sub frame. I have even taped the two parts together.

macafee2

roverbarmy · 14th February 2020, 16:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by macafee2

you don't go vertical but horizontal through the "large" round hole, see your first picture.
The short extension must be short and some standard short extensions are too long. Make sure the socket is a tight fit on the extension in case it comes off, it can be a cow to get out of the sub frame. I have even taped the two parts together.

macafee2

A dose of blutack helps!

Blink · 14th February 2020, 16:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by macafee2

you don't go vertical but horizontal through the "large" round hole, see your first picture.
The short extension must be short and some standard short extensions are too long. Make sure the socket is a tight fit on the extension in case it comes off, it can be a cow to get out of the sub frame. I have even taped the two parts together.

macafee2

Do you mean through these holes?

The shortest extension I've got is 120mm long, or 140mm including the 15mm socket. It's a mile too long to get round the fuel tank so I'll have to buy a shorter one.

Can you do me a favour and measure the one you used (with & without the 15mm socket)?

NB. I don't need to get the bolts out of the subframe - I just need to slacken them off by one or two complete revolutions (or enough to 'undo' the current 120Nm torque). Once I've done that I'll jack the trailing arms up, then re-tighten the bolts to 120Nm.

Quote:

Originally Posted by roverbarmy

A dose of blutack helps!

Good idea but I'm not taking the bolts out (thankfully!).

Blink · 14th February 2020, 16:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blink

... Can you do me a favour and measure the one you used (with & without the 15mm socket)? ...

Most of the 'short' extensions seem to be 75mm, so that's 95mm with the 15mm socket - e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amtech-I390...1701727&sr=8-6

Teng do a 2.5"/63.5mm one, which would be 83.5mm with the 15mm socket - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Teng-M12002...701727&sr=8-39

macafee2 · 14th February 2020, 17:14

I've circled the two holes to use.
I have a "home made" extension that is 85mm long and a king dick extension that is 75/76mm long
with the 15mm socket added they are 111 and 97 mm

macafee2

marinabrian · 14th February 2020, 17:35

You aren't boxing it up using these bolts are you?

BOZZ · 14th February 2020, 19:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blink

Do you mean through these holes?

The shortest extension I've got is 120mm long, or 140mm including the 15mm socket. It's a mile too long to get round the fuel tank so I'll have to buy a shorter one.

Can you do me a favour and measure the one you used (with & without the 15mm socket)?

NB. I don't need to get the bolts out of the subframe - I just need to slacken them off by one or two complete revolutions (or enough to 'undo' the current 120Nm torque). Once I've done that I'll jack the trailing arms up, then re-tighten the bolts to 120Nm.

Good idea but I'm not taking the bolts out (thankfully!).

Sorry don't want so much repeat just this

NB. I don't need to get the bolts out of the subframe - I just need to slacken them off by one or two complete revolutions (or enough to 'undo' the current 120Nm torque). Once I've done that I'll jack the trailing arms up, then re-tighten the bolts to 120Nm.
but ARE you sure they not strenght bolts ? if they are you HAVE TO REPLACE them.

Blink · 15th February 2020, 06:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by marinabrian

You aren't boxing it up using these bolts are you?

No, I've used the proper ones - FC112187A, M12x90 (15mm socket), nos 3 & 7 here.

See underneath pic in post 2.

14th February 2020, 14:13	#1
Blink Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Under the car Posts: 1,840 Thanks: 210 Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts	Subframe in situ: accessing arm bolts - advice please Finally, there's a pause in the rain so I'm trying re-torque these bolts (one per side in each case): Upper arm to trailing arm Lower arm to trailing arm Upper arm to subframe Lower arm to subframe Damper bottom to trailing arm (All parts & bolts above are new). I assembled the subframe, arms and springs off the car and torqued up 3 & 4 at the same time. Then I fitted everything to the car, which is still on blocks (all four corners). The plan now is to loosen 1-5, jack the trailing arms up until the back of the car just lifts off the blocks, then re-torque 1-5. The problem is I can't get a socket on #3 (upper arm to subframe bolt). A 15mm socket on a short extension won't go in via the vertical access holes because the fuel tank is in the way - and the socket on its own isn't long enough to get the ratchet on. What does everyone else use? NB. By "vertical access holes", I mean the ones shown below - not the other two that are parallel to the ground. Horizontal access hole on right in this pic. TIA.

14th February 2020, 14:22	#2
Blink Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Under the car Posts: 1,840 Thanks: 210 Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts	Actually, the 2nd pic above makes more sense like this (the horizontal access hole is now horizontal!) Btw, ignore the bolts in the pic above, I've used the proper ones - FC112187A, M12x90 (15mm socket), nos 3 & 7 here. Last edited by Blink; 14th February 2020 at 14:40..

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14th February 2020, 15:10	#3
macafee2 This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 14,912 Thanks: 1,630 Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts	you don't go vertical but horizontal through the "large" round hole, see your first picture. The short extension must be short and some standard short extensions are too long. Make sure the socket is a tight fit on the extension in case it comes off, it can be a cow to get out of the sub frame. I have even taped the two parts together. macafee2

14th February 2020, 17:35	#8
marinabrian MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne Posts: 20,151 Thanks: 3,565 Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts	You aren't boxing it up using these bolts are you?