Diesel - Slow starting, then when warm wont start

Alex30013k · 26th August 2020, 11:59

My mums zt for a good few months takes a while to start and its slowly getting worse,

and now when hot it wont start,
i have just put a new crank sensor in and it was still slow to start, went for a drive, come back and started again but slow, but then car sat for 10 mins and would not start. swapped over cam sensor with my car and same wouldn't start, tried my mums cam sensor in my 75 and started fine.

i have connected toaf when it was running to look at the the cylinder read out (not that i even understand it) but on tick over

cylinder
1 2.50 mm3
2 0.44 mm3
3 - 2.49 mm3
4 -0.75

when pushing the revving a bit it reads

1 4.47mm3
2 -1.97mm3
3 -2.89mm3
4 0.28mm3

the engine is smooth when running and on tick over

she called the aa out yesterday and turned up didn't start and then connected code reader, nothing and then started and then he left as it started lol

what else could i try?

ive tried searching and ll comes back to cam or crank sensor

thanks
Alex

Mike Noc · 26th August 2020, 13:09

Try a leak back test on the injectors - number 1 looks a bit suspect. Sounds like the ECM isn't seeing the minimum fuel pressure when cranking due to leakback, so not enabling the injectors.

.

Alex30013k · 26th August 2020, 18:30

thanks

have ordered some pipe to do leak back test.

but had the aa out again as just wouldn't start, cranked it loads and nothing, then a spray of easy start and now it starts nice when warm and when cooler takes a while to start,

COLVERT · 26th August 2020, 19:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex30013k

thanks

have ordered some pipe to do leak back test.

but had the aa out again as just wouldn't start, cranked it loads and nothing, then a spray of easy start and now it starts nice when warm and when cooler takes a while to start,

Unfortunately it's just going to get worse until you tackle those injectors.---

Mike Noc · 26th August 2020, 20:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex30013k

thanks

have ordered some pipe to do leak back test.

but had the aa out again as just wouldn't start, cranked it loads and nothing, then a spray of easy start and now it starts nice when warm and when cooler takes a while to start,

It will do that with one or more leaking injectors. The motor driven HP fuel pump runs at 3/4 engine speed and so when cranking it is turning very slowly. With a sniff of Easystart the engine fires and speeds up, and then the pump can overcome the losses due to the leak.

Arctic · 27th August 2020, 09:17

Hi Alex.
Purchase your self one of these.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIESEL-IN...4AAOSwrl1fRHUm

Also a set of these.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333175804253

You may well need a couple of injectors too, after you have done the test.

Mike Noc · 27th August 2020, 20:26

Or you could always knock up a GhettoTech alternative.

26th August 2020, 11:59	#1
Alex30013k Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon 2.0 CDTi Conn Se Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ashford Kent Posts: 1,560 Thanks: 17 Thanked 29 Times in 21 Posts	Diesel - Slow starting, then when warm wont start My mums zt for a good few months takes a while to start and its slowly getting worse, and now when hot it wont start, i have just put a new crank sensor in and it was still slow to start, went for a drive, come back and started again but slow, but then car sat for 10 mins and would not start. swapped over cam sensor with my car and same wouldn't start, tried my mums cam sensor in my 75 and started fine. i have connected toaf when it was running to look at the the cylinder read out (not that i even understand it) but on tick over cylinder 1 2.50 mm3 2 0.44 mm3 3 - 2.49 mm3 4 -0.75 when pushing the revving a bit it reads 1 4.47mm3 2 -1.97mm3 3 -2.89mm3 4 0.28mm3 the engine is smooth when running and on tick over she called the aa out yesterday and turned up didn't start and then connected code reader, nothing and then started and then he left as it started lol what else could i try? ive tried searching and ll comes back to cam or crank sensor thanks Alex

26th August 2020, 13:09	#2
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,548 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Try a leak back test on the injectors - number 1 looks a bit suspect. Sounds like the ECM isn't seeing the minimum fuel pressure when cranking due to leakback, so not enabling the injectors. . Last edited by Mike Noc; 26th August 2020 at 13:13..

27th August 2020, 09:17	#6
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,716 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	Hi Alex. Purchase your self one of these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIESEL-IN...4AAOSwrl1fRHUm Also a set of these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333175804253 You may well need a couple of injectors too, after you have done the test. __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise "

26th August 2020, 18:30	#3
Alex30013k Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon 2.0 CDTi Conn Se Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ashford Kent Posts: 1,560 Thanks: 17 Thanked 29 Times in 21 Posts	thanks have ordered some pipe to do leak back test. but had the aa out again as just wouldn't start, cranked it loads and nothing, then a spray of easy start and now it starts nice when warm and when cooler takes a while to start,

27th August 2020, 20:26	#7
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,548 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Or you could always knock up a GhettoTech alternative.