Diesel - Slow starting, then when warm wont start

[Alex30013k]

My mums zt for a good few months takes a while to start and its slowly getting worse,

and now when hot it wont start,
i have just put a new crank sensor in and it was still slow to start, went for a drive, come back and started again but slow, but then car sat for 10 mins and would not start. swapped over cam sensor with my car and same wouldn't start, tried my mums cam sensor in my 75 and started fine.


i have connected toaf when it was running to look at the the cylinder read out (not that i even understand it) but on tick over

cylinder
1 2.50 mm3
2 0.44 mm3
3 - 2.49 mm3
4 -0.75

when pushing the revving a bit it reads

1 4.47mm3
2 -1.97mm3
3 -2.89mm3
4 0.28mm3

the engine is smooth when running and on tick over

she called the aa out yesterday and turned up didn't start and then connected code reader, nothing and then started and then he left as it started lol

what else could i try?

ive tried searching and ll comes back to cam or crank sensor

thanks
Alex

[Mike Noc]

Try a leak back test on the injectors - number 1 looks a bit suspect. Sounds like the ECM isn't seeing the minimum fuel pressure when cranking due to leakback, so not enabling the injectors.


.

[Alex30013k]

thanks

have ordered some pipe to do leak back test.

but had the aa out again as just wouldn't start, cranked it loads and nothing, then a spray of easy start and now it starts nice when warm and when cooler takes a while to start,

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by Alex30013k

thanks

have ordered some pipe to do leak back test.

but had the aa out again as just wouldn't start, cranked it loads and nothing, then a spray of easy start and now it starts nice when warm and when cooler takes a while to start,

Unfortunately it's just going to get worse until you tackle those injectors.---

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by Alex30013k

thanks

have ordered some pipe to do leak back test.

but had the aa out again as just wouldn't start, cranked it loads and nothing, then a spray of easy start and now it starts nice when warm and when cooler takes a while to start,

It will do that with one or more leaking injectors. The motor driven HP fuel pump runs at 3/4 engine speed and so when cranking it is turning very slowly. With a sniff of Easystart the engine fires and speeds up, and then the pump can overcome the losses due to the leak.

[Arctic]

Hi Alex.
Purchase your self one of these.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIESEL-IN...4AAOSwrl1fRHUm

Also a set of these.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333175804253

You may well need a couple of injectors too, after you have done the test.

[Mike Noc]

Or you could always knock up a GhettoTech alternative.

[Alex30013k]

Hell, thanks for the advice, I did a test from reading how to do it, cranking with the Crank sensor unplugged, 1,2,4 stayed bone dry, number 3 filled up the tube with in a second.

I have a spare injector that Tom gave me a few years ago that I will fit and try.

[Alex30013k]

Is there any thing I need to know before I attempt to take the injector out, as never done it before?

[Arctic]

Hi Alex.
make sure the engine is up to temperature this will help when you need to lever the injector out, also use a flat metal bar to lever off or you will damage the cam cover.


Try and clean round the injector before removing so no debris falls into the injector chamber.

Use a new copper washer when refitting the other injector, making sure the injector is fully seated and do not over tighten the two 8mm nuts either side of said injector.

Engine cover off, air duct off.
1

Disconnect the intercooler hose.
2

Undo the clip joining the exhaust pipe to EGR.
3

Remove the manifold.
4

Remove injector wiring connectors.
5

Remove spring clips from injector T pieces.
6

Pull out T connectors.
7

Until you have cleared the injector you are removing.
8

Undo the 17mm nuts connecting to the injector which is being remove, you will also have to remove the ones next to it.
9

10

11

12

Remove the two pipes four nuts section, keep it as it came off try not to twist it, this will help you have to refit.
13

Undo the two 8mm nuts a third up the thread.
14

Place a flat metal bar along the cam cover to lever off.
15

Pry up under the nut at front of the injector with some luck it should rise nicely.
16

Prise up slowly & with a steady pressure, until the injector hits the two 8mm nuts which are a third up the thread.
17

Then undo the 8mm nuts fully use a magnet to help remove them so you do not drop them into the engine or one of the manifold ports.
18

As above hopefully the injector will prise up easy if not you may have to resort to a slide hammer.
19

20

This one took quite some force to remove.
21

22

23

Injector port was very carbon up.
24

Required cleaning out carefully.
25

Use a good clean injector and new washer to replace.
26

This was the old washer which sometime remain behind and are also tricky to remove.
27

I made this tool from some all thread to help remove washers that remain behind.
28

seen in use on another injector replacement i did.
29

When the job goes smoothly
30

31

32

33

A clean injector i newly serviced ready to fit in replacement.
34

As always use a new copper washer.
35

Refit everything in reverse hope the job goes well for you and these photos help also. Arctic.