2.5 KV6 Locking Pin Won't Fit at "Safe" position

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by tazoparts

I am changing both of the damping pulleys on the secondary side, so I will need to set the timing there anyway.

The rear sprocket wheels are keyed to the camshafts Taz so there's no difference between using new ones or refitting the originals.

Originally Posted by marinabrian

I would have described it as a set screw ...
Simon may wish to search the meaning of both fasteners, but they are not as he describes, bolts.

Indeed, a set screw. I believe that you and I are in the minority, knowing the difference, which is why I used the commonly used generic term 'bolts'. However the point is that Gary used a mysterious term which would be highly confusing to those members attempting this job for the first time.

Simon

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Lovel

If you Review the old Rover KV6 timing belt video and look for the subtle tweak with the socket and wrench extension.

Do you mean this video Gary, at 7 mins and 48 seconds in?

Simon

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Do you mean this video Gary, at 7 mins and 48 seconds in?

You wanted me to look at the video Gary, any chance of a reply?

Simon

[Lovel]

Originally Posted by SD1too

You wanted me to look at the video Gary, any chance of a reply?

Simon

Sure thing. Yes that’s the bit showing the socket and wrench extension being used.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Lovel

Sure thing. Yes that’s the bit showing the socket and wrench extension being used.

OK, thanks for the confirmation Gary. Just to recap what you said earlier:

Originally Posted by Lovel

... to align the rear cam wheels to give a truly 3-9 o’clock reading. In the old Rover KV6 video you will see the gentleman carry this out, but he uses a socket on the end of the factory tools.

Ah, the gentleman isn't aligning the rear cam sprockets "to give a truly 3-9 o'clock reading" there. He is returning the exhaust camshaft to its factory position because it moved when the rear sprocket assembly was detached.

The inlet camshaft won't move, nor do we want it to, because the flywheel (or drive plate for automatics) pin together with the new front belt prevent it.

The factory position (with flywheel/drive plate pin inserted) in practice is not when the notches are perfectly aligned at 3 and 9 o'clock. They are slightly offset (as 1955diesel said) and this is what the gentleman in the video is doing, maintaining that relationship.

Originally Posted by Lovel

I’m timing exactly as per factory requirements.

I'm afraid you're not Gary. The factory definitely does not slacken the inlet camshaft sprocket set screw when working upon the rear belts.

Simon

[Avulon]

Originally Posted by SD1too

OK, thanks for the confirmation Gary. Just to recap what you said earlier:

Ah, the gentleman isn't aligning the rear cam sprockets "to give a truly 3-9 o'clock reading" there. He is returning the exhaust camshaft to its factory position because it moved when the rear sprocket assembly was detached.

The inlet camshaft won't move, nor do we want it to, because the flywheel (or drive plate for automatics) pin together with the new front belt prevent it.
...
Simon

You should also note that he clearly says that this (aligning the exhaust camshaft) is done with both the front tools and flywheel pin removed and without rotating the engine and without loosening the front pulley bolts! As SD1too says - this is only to align the exhaust camshaft (the keyway with the pulley) during refitting of the rear pulleys.


Loosening the front pulley again would do 2 things - 1] make you need to replace the front pulley bolts... again and 2] Change the inlet timing from the setting as set by the expensive tools!


It has already been stated here on the forum that the rear pulleys don't line up exactly and that this was known about.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Avulon

You should also note that he clearly says that this (aligning the exhaust camshaft) is done with both the front tools and flywheel pin removed and without rotating the engine ...

Yes, I must admit that Rover has failed to mention that the engine needs to be rotated. This could be the only reason for removing the flywheel pin. This procedure is advisable in order to retain factory timing simultanously with the notches in the rear sprockets aligning at 3 and 9 o'clock. This alignment makes it much easier to lace the replacement belt and fit the sprockets to the keyed camshaft ends at the first attempt.

Originally Posted by Avulon

Loosening the front pulley again would do 2 things - 1] make you need to replace the front pulley bolts... again and 2] Change the inlet timing from the setting as set by the expensive tools!

I agree with you in respect of 1] but Gary says that he left the front tool in place so the inlet camshaft rear sprocket notch would remain at the factory setting, i.e. slightly misaligned with the exhaust sprocket notch. He says that he then moved the exhaust camshaft to position both notches at 3 and nine o'clock. This doesn't make sense to me because it wouldn't!

There's a third problem with loosening the front sprocket set screws. It will upset the belt tension on the LH side of the engine necessitating re-lacing the front belt and setting up the tensioner pulley again. It just makes no sense.

Originally Posted by Avulon

It has already been stated here on the forum that the rear pulleys don't line up exactly and that this was known about.

Quite; why mess about with something which works?

Simon