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17th March 2018, 12:13 | #1 |
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Yet another non starting diesel
Rover 75 2.0 CDT 76k
I should preface this post with the info that I misfuelled the car about 3yrs ago on the M4 and ended up driving it for about 20 miles home, so I've been waiting for something to fail since. However in the last 3 yrs I've not had a single problem with the car until last week during all the snow when it wouldnt start one evening after work. Using the great advice on this forum I have taken the under bonnet voltage measurements suggested by French Mike. I have checked the IT pump and it is running. The UB pump doesnt seem to run until I give it a tap. The car fires up for about 1 sec with Easy start but wont run. Crankshaft sensor appears to be OK as I see the rev counter reading 100rpm whilst cranking. Outside air temp today is -1. Camsensor disconnected = 12v ign on, 9-10V cranking. Same readings when reconnected, cranking 8-9V. Signal voltage between Yellow/green and Black/purple wire on filter = 1.25V. Signal voltage between Purple/green and Black/purple wire on filter = 5V High pressure fuel rail = 3.77V between pin1 and pin2 Blue/black and Green/brown wires. Green/purple ECU 5V. Does this point to a LP fault, maybe UB pump which need a tap to get it to run, even though doing this still won't start the car? Thanks for any help diagnosing this problem. |
17th March 2018, 12:35 | #2 |
I really should get out more.......
75 CDT SE 160 Saloon Join Date: May 2017
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Sounds like the Ubp to me... Mine went in exactly the same way.
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17th March 2018, 12:44 | #3 |
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If you tap it so that it's running a few times and make sure its self bled and primed. I'd definitely be doing the ub pump and reason it might not still be starting Is it needing to prime first. Fixed ravs one this way after his recovery company gave up.
So key in get pump running then turn off once pump has primed but don't try to start it. Repeat a few times and then try starting. A little bit like heating glow plugs a few times before starting in extreme cold.
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The Typhoon Bull Last edited by Amsca2; 17th March 2018 at 12:48.. Reason: Edit |
17th March 2018, 13:49 | #4 |
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Ok so primed 4 times and it still wouldnt start. Tried again and whey hey, thar she blows.
So at least I've been able to move it out of the way of my other cars. Presumably this means a new UB pump. What are my best options? Rimmer? Ebay? I've read about the dubious quality of some of the cheaper pumps. Many thanks |
17th March 2018, 13:59 | #5 |
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17th March 2018, 14:00 | #6 |
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Woop woop. And that's me out as I've never bought one. Just know they need time to self bleed or prime sometimes when fuels been allowed to run back.
Good luck.
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17th March 2018, 14:43 | #7 | ||
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Quote:
First go for a pierburg UBP, also make sure you are getting a pierburg and not one that is trying to be one. 12v 16.14.6-751867 There is also the TI Automotive WBQ100 482 MG ROVER 7.50060.00 If you go down the cheap route remember buy cheap buy twice. There is also https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-75-...YAAOxyOM5Ra4hh https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PIERBURG-...IAAOSwubRXGgYK https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-PIERBU...AAAOSwna1ZxIAQ You could also check euro car parts & use the code PAT75 and or the code from here? but as I say double check from where ever you purchase, ask questions about the part codes
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17th March 2018, 16:40 | #8 |
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Sorry I dont see this anywhere
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17th March 2018, 16:46 | #9 |
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Thanks have ordered a Pierburg and filter from Eurocarparts with code. Cosxt a bit more but means I can fit on Mon and test before a 200 mile round trip on Fri. Will double check with counter staff when I pick up on Mon.
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17th March 2018, 19:27 | #10 |
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oops, re #8, I don't see the Thanks tab.
Cheers anyway |
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