What I did with my Rover 75/MG ZT today?

[smudge.g]

+Carried out a strip down and clean of my recently purchased FBH using the absolutely excellent guide provided by Rich17865. Cleaned out loads of crusty carbon deposits but have found that the gasket for the pcb has stretched over time and is now too long to fit back. Now trying to find a replacement as the other gaskets have been reused.

[trikey]

Originally Posted by smudge.g

+Carried out a strip down and clean of my recently purchased FBH using the absolutely excellent guide provided by Rich17865. Cleaned out loads of crusty carbon deposits but have found that the gasket for the pcb has stretched over time and is now too long to fit back. Now trying to find a replacement as the other gaskets have been reused.

Here ya go...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-W...A/231167849420

[smudge.g]

Originally Posted by trikey

Here ya go...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-W...A/231167849420

Thanks Trikey but it doesnt seem to have the gasket (rectangular one) for under the pcb. Will keep looking!

[CimmaronG]

Gave the Rover a good clean inside and out, should last until next year..Hopefully

[minimutly]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

So tomorrow will see the new DMF and clutch fitted, and the gearbox back into the car..........and then we will see how good the aftersales service is in regards to the sub 1000 mile clutch I've just taken out.

It could be worse, I could be paying for labour

Brian

Care to share the make of that clutch Brian? I bet they'll say it was "fitted wrongly"...

[marinabrian]

So the clutch saga continues.........

The flywheel appeared to be perfect before removal of the clutch, no excess of either radial or axial movement, in fact it appeared to be almost identical to the brand new one.

Following removal of the clutch, as I had the use of a Snap On electric impact wrench, I used this to whizz out the eight bolts securing the flywheel to the crankshaft, which took but a few seconds.

On inspection on the bench, the two masses were now seized!!, no relative movement whatsoever, so this in itself provided a tangible explanation for the intermittent vibration that was occurring when the car was being driven.

When shocked free with a rawhide mallet, the two masses began operating as per normal.

So I now have a sub 1000 mile LUK clutch as a spare, as when I ordered the new DMF and eight new bolts, I also ordered a new three part MGR branded clutch assembly, as I really wasn't sure as to the cause of the mystery random vibration, and I certainly wasn't about to leave anything to chance.

So there you have it, when the LUK clutch was fitted six weeks ago, the flywheel was carefully inspected, and found to be well within LUK specification, both in radial and axial movement.

This was not a quick "clash it together job" by any stretch of the imagination, the radial play was checked using a DTI mounted on a magnetic base, and the axial movement combined was less than 15mm of a permissible 25mm.

There was no scoring or hotspots on the running surfaces, and no contamination, and everything was meticulously cleaned prior to fitting of the clutch, which itself was aligned using the factory tooling, and the gearbox refitted without force, absolutely no rough handling whatsoever, being lifted as per my preference using an engine crane and slung by the correct lifting eyelet on the top of the casing.

Anyway, after cleaning the threads in the end of the crank, and the mating surfaces, the new flywheel was offered up, then fitted using the new patchlok bolts, and progressively tightened to the correct torque with the crankshaft held with the correct tool.

The new clutch was fitted, followed by the gearbox, again without fuss, heavy handling or force.

So tomorrow will see me refill the gearbox, and refit the subframe and exhaust, and take it for a test drive.

It had better be nice, the pedal is nice and light, but then it was a couple of days back before I started.

Needless to say I'll be disassembling the DMF to perform the post mortem.

These things are sent to try us are they not

Brian

[gadget1960]

Up at the crack of 08:30!, filled the 75 cdt up with shell's finest, went to get it washed and waxed then set off for a trip to Hersham (from Dover) to see my son and daughter in-law.
Not too much traffic and all moving at legal m/way speeds give or take 10mph and some stretches of 50mph road works. had roughly the same situation on return journey but had more opotunity to average around 80mph, arrived home and OBC said .... average 53.3.
So that's with a full tank at the start, and fully loaded with four adults and a boot full of xmas pressies.
Must say ... I'm pretty chuffed with that, makes me wonder what it might achieve if I stuck to 60-65mph.
(And only just tonight clicked over 60,000).... loving my 75

[slovcan]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

So the clutch saga continues.........

The flywheel appeared to be perfect before removal of the clutch, no excess of either radial or axial movement, in fact it appeared to be almost identical to the brand new one.

Following removal of the clutch, as I had the use of a Snap On electric impact wrench, I used this to whizz out the eight bolts securing the flywheel to the crankshaft, which took but a few seconds.

On inspection on the bench, the two masses were now seized!!, no relative movement whatsoever, so this in itself provided a tangible explanation for the intermittent vibration that was occurring when the car was being driven.

When shocked free with a rawhide mallet, the two masses began operating as per normal.

So I now have a sub 1000 mile LUK clutch as a spare, as when I ordered the new DMF and eight new bolts, I also ordered a new three part MGR branded clutch assembly, as I really wasn't sure as to the cause of the mystery random vibration, and I certainly wasn't about to leave anything to chance.

So there you have it, when the LUK clutch was fitted six weeks ago, the flywheel was carefully inspected, and found to be well within LUK specification, both in radial and axial movement.

This was not a quick "clash it together job" by any stretch of the imagination, the radial play was checked using a DTI mounted on a magnetic base, and the axial movement combined was less than 15mm of a permissible 25mm.

There was no scoring or hotspots on the running surfaces, and no contamination, and everything was meticulously cleaned prior to fitting of the clutch, which itself was aligned using the factory tooling, and the gearbox refitted without force, absolutely no rough handling whatsoever, being lifted as per my preference using an engine crane and slung by the correct lifting eyelet on the top of the casing.

Anyway, after cleaning the threads in the end of the crank, and the mating surfaces, the new flywheel was offered up, then fitted using the new patchlok bolts, and progressively tightened to the correct torque with the crankshaft held with the correct tool.

The new clutch was fitted, followed by the gearbox, again without fuss, heavy handling or force.

So tomorrow will see me refill the gearbox, and refit the subframe and exhaust, and take it for a test drive.

It had better be nice, the pedal is nice and light, but then it was a couple of days back before I started.

Needless to say I'll be disassembling the DMF to perform the post mortem.

These things are sent to try us are they not

Brian

I don't think I have ever read a first hand report of a failed MGR 75/ZT DMF. I am certainly interested in what you find out.

Cheers,
Glenn

[200BRM]

Firstly spent several more hours trying to get my 1.8ZTT to spark. Discovered heat fused wires to the crank pick up so it looks like a fried ECU. Off the road for 6 years with the engine in the boot. So near yet so far.
Rodded the tubes on my other 1.8ZTT while checking wiring colours on its crank sensors.
Rodded the tubes on my daughters 1.8t 75 tourer.
Finally took a phone call from my daughter to tell me she has now broken my 220k mile 75 cdt tourer. Charging light has come on. After many thousands of trouble free miles [and sadly neglected] She has broken it in a few days.
Looks like my car free day tomorrow aint gonna happen now:

[trikey]

Originally Posted by 200BRM

Firstly spent several more hours trying to get my 1.8ZTT to spark. Discovered heat fused wires to the crank pick up so it looks like a fried ECU. Off the road for 6 years with the engine in the boot. So near yet so far.

Rodded the tubes on my other 1.8ZTT while checking wiring colours on its crank sensors.

Rodded the tubes on my daughters 1.8t 75 tourer.

Finally took a phone call from my daughter to tell me she has now broken my 220k mile 75 cdt tourer. Charging light has come on. After many thousands of trouble free miles [and sadly neglected] She has broken it in a few days.

Looks like my car free day tomorrow aint gonna happen now:

These were my wires!! I feel your pain..