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Old 26th February 2021, 14:01   #21
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"...........with the problem with getting rid of the residual product, that is now in contact with the fresh oil."


No need to get rid of the residual product if it is drained correctly, it will be a minute amount compared to the volume of oil in the engine and won't cause a problem, if it could Comma would warn about it.


No one worries about the residual old oil contaminating the new oil after a normal oil change. ��
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Old 26th February 2021, 14:06   #22
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On that subject, it is interesting that they state "Minimise contact with engine oil".
I think that it is to pass the onuses on to the end user with the problem with getting rid of the residual product, that is now in contact with the fresh oil.
Hi Bob,

"Minimise contact with engine oil" usually refers to keeping it off your skin when carrying out maintenance such as this.

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Old 26th February 2021, 14:43   #23
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I did wonder about whether there could be any long term ill-effects of having a small residual amount of Flush Out in with the new oil after the job is complete.

As you say, likely negligible.

Weather permitting on Sunday, I am going to drain the old oil, chuck a new filter at it and some of that Flush Out. Run it for a bit with some fast idling interspersed.

Drain the Flush Out, throw another filter at it and put some delicious fresh Comma 10w40 Eurolite in there.

I am concerned the noise is going to persist though - I have had a busy day in the car today with work. Done about 100 miles visiting customer sites so been jumping on and off the motorway and had the car full to bursting point with boxes of network equipment, so she's had a hard day.

But despite all the running and a nice hot engine, the tapping noise is still there when the car comes to a stop and is idling!

I am hoping its not terminal and its not bottom end.
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Old 26th February 2021, 15:27   #24
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... I am going to drain the old oil, chuck a new filter at it and some of that Flush Out.
If possible, fill the new filter with Flush Out before fitting. When you drain the hot Flush Out you'll notice the very low viscosity which will reassure you that it's got into your tappets. You'll also notice how black it is! If the noise doesn't improve at all, you can move onto the next stage.

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Old 26th February 2021, 15:44   #25
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Originally Posted by Ducati750cc View Post
"...........with the problem with getting rid of the residual product, that is now in contact with the fresh oil."


No need to get rid of the residual product if it is drained correctly, it will be a minute amount compared to the volume of oil in the engine and won't cause a problem, if it could Comma would warn about it.


No one worries about the residual old oil contaminating the new oil after a normal oil change. ��
Thanks for answering the question about the residual product, which has been avoided up to now.

In the case of the KV6 engine has a dry capacity of 6.0 litres, including the oil cooler.
The wet capacity (or service fill) is 5.19 litres including the oil filter.

I would consider .81 litre quite significant.
This is around 13 - 15% depending on the level chosen.
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Old 26th February 2021, 20:04   #26
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Originally Posted by Dorset Bob View Post
Thanks for answering the question about the residual product, which has been avoided up to now.

In the case of the KV6 engine has a dry capacity of 6.0 litres, including the oil cooler.
The wet capacity (or service fill) is 5.19 litres including the oil filter.

I would consider .81 litre quite significant.
This is around 13 - 15% depending on the level chosen.
That 0.81 litres is a lot of oil to be left inside the engine after a drain down. There must be some large pockets in the casing of the engine for that to happen.--
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Old 26th February 2021, 21:57   #27
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That 0.81 litres is a lot of oil to be left inside the engine after a drain down. There must be some large pockets in the casing of the engine for that to happen.--
Yes Jon, I agree that it is a lot.
These are figures from the Rover Workshop Service Procedures manual, that I have.

But, I suppose the oil cooler holds a fair quantity.
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Old 27th February 2021, 19:01   #28
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Well this morning was interesting to say the least. Was up and trying to head off to work at 8am for some rare overtime.

Started her up, sounded awful as per the videos and was clearly misfiring, could feel it through the seat and steering wheel.

She wouldn't go up the hill out of my estate in 2nd, I had to drop down to 1st.
Usually you can easily get up the hill in 2nd - she'll do it in 3rd but will struggle.

After dropping to 1st, I had just made it to the top of the hill and she cut out.

Tried to start her up again and she sounded absolutely dreadful and there was a strong smell, sort of a burning smell.
For a brief moment I though the cambelt had gone or I'd thrown an aux belt and it was burning up due to friction.

Had to roll her back down the hill in reverse, no power steering or servo assist on the brakes so that was fun.

Managed to keep enough momentum to get on to the driveway at which point she started again and I headed off to work.



I am not feeling too confident that an oil change and flush tomorrow is going to cure this one.
Surely this isn't sounding like symptoms of dry tappets anymore??

Last edited by Gigagator; 27th February 2021 at 19:03..
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Old 27th February 2021, 22:40   #29
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Originally Posted by Gigagator View Post
Well this morning was interesting to say the least. Was up and trying to head off to work at 8am for some rare overtime.

Started her up, sounded awful as per the videos and was clearly misfiring, could feel it through the seat and steering wheel.

She wouldn't go up the hill out of my estate in 2nd, I had to drop down to 1st.
Usually you can easily get up the hill in 2nd - she'll do it in 3rd but will struggle.

After dropping to 1st, I had just made it to the top of the hill and she cut out.

Tried to start her up again and she sounded absolutely dreadful and there was a strong smell, sort of a burning smell.
For a brief moment I though the cambelt had gone or I'd thrown an aux belt and it was burning up due to friction.

Had to roll her back down the hill in reverse, no power steering or servo assist on the brakes so that was fun.

Managed to keep enough momentum to get on to the driveway at which point she started again and I headed off to work.



I am not feeling too confident that an oil change and flush tomorrow is going to cure this one.
Surely this isn't sounding like symptoms of dry tappets anymore??
That sounds like another fault has reared its ugly head.--

Perhaps your fuel tank filter is starting to come apart and your up-hill drive from home is making it worse.--
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Old 27th February 2021, 23:21   #30
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Sorry to hear this Rhys.
Do you know if the cam belt, and associated components, have been changed within the last 6 years?
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