My KV6 Cambelt change - Page 18

p2roverman · 20th February 2018, 19:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by jn12

What makes you think it's wrong considering you have used the tools?

Having next done the rear belts, noted that the mis-alignment of the chainwheel marks was different on one bank compared with the other so decided to recheck the front wheels. One tool would not quite engage. I'll turn the engine a few times, relock it and check. Would have got further today but realised too late I was using the automatic hole to try to lock a manual car. (rear chainwheel mis-alignment being the subject of earlier posts).

May have to reset one cam depending on what I find, but next time I do this job I'll not do the extra 90 degree turn on the camshaft bolts until I'm sure.

While on the subject of these bolts, is there a torque setting that can be used instead of the 90 degree turn? Their location means that for some this rotation has to be achieved in small steps rather than a single (recommended) movement.

Mike Noc · 20th February 2018, 19:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by p2roverman

While on the subject of these bolts, is there a torque setting that can be used instead of the 90 degree turn? Their location means that for some this rotation has to be achieved in small steps rather than a single (recommended) movement.

Not if you want the same clamping force accuracy. As long as you get the correct angle, can't see it making much difference, in this application, with doing it in more than one movement.

p2roverman · 22nd February 2018, 16:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Not if you want the same clamping force accuracy. As long as you get the correct angle, can't see it making much difference, in this application, with doing it in more than one movement.

Much to my annoyance I'm going to have to use a couple of bolts again. Noticed when replacing the rear cover that there was some thick oil deposited inside it which implies leaking rear camshaft seals, which I didn't have to hand. So a pair of rear camwheels will have to come off; this time I might remember to use the tapered pins when I refit them.

Mike Noc · 22nd February 2018, 17:37

Shouldn't be a problem as you fitted them new in the first place, so you know no-one has been swinging on them and they haven't been tightened up like driveshaft nuts.

jn12 · 22nd February 2018, 18:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by p2roverman

Much to my annoyance I'm going to have to use a couple of bolts again. Noticed when replacing the rear cover that there was some thick oil deposited inside it which implies leaking rear camshaft seals, which I didn't have to hand. So a pair of rear camwheels will have to come off; this time I might remember to use the tapered pins when I refit them.

The rear pins help when sliding on so hopefully will not take you long. The seals are not much of a problem although the back bank exhaust cam seal has the least room to let you tap one in.

p2roverman · 23rd February 2018, 18:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by jn12

The rear pins help when sliding on so hopefully will not take you long. The seals are not much of a problem although the back bank exhaust cam seal has the least room to let you tap one in.

That's the one I have to change!

The official video on Youtube of belt changing on a KV6 has been recommended to me, thank you. Easy when it's not in the engine. There was also someone's 46 minute video which I obviously wasn't prepared to sit through, but I did see him turning the camshaft bolt while just holding the other end so can't recommend that!!

However no mention of correctly setting the tensioner. This info comes with tensioners supplied by Schaffler-Aftermarket, for which I believe Matt at DMGRS provided the link.

dai1983 · 24th February 2018, 06:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by p2roverman

However no mention of correctly setting the tensioner. This info comes with tensioners supplied by Schaffler-Aftermarket, for which I believe Matt at DMGRS provided the link.

Schaffer have a website called RepXpert.com. It’s more for garages but you can register an account anyway and there’s loads of figment guides for the products they sell including the KV6 timing belt!

beinet1 · 1st July 2023, 08:51

Ahh.... 8 years, 20000km and the Waterpump is now leaking badly!!

Time to redo this operation

, but I will replace the belts and water pump only. The rest is only mileage dependent items and do not have any due date..

SD1too · 1st July 2023, 13:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by beinet1

Ahh.... 8 years, 20000km and the Waterpump is now leaking badly!!

Hello Einar,

In post no. 24 you described removing the original factory-fitted water pump and I asked you in a later post if it was leaking coolant or if you had found play in the shaft. You replied that there was neither and that a replacement was nevertheless fitted.

Quote:

Originally Posted by beinet1

Old and new waterpump:

Old one has a plastic impeller, and the new one a metal one. The casting on the OEM pump is a level smoother than the replacement and that one has been in there since the car was new. Its casting was marked with a production date from -99.
The seal surface on the block was cleaned with some grit 400 wet-n-dry paper and wiped dry before the new pump was fitted together with a new seal to the block. I added a drop of loctite 243 to its bolts before mounting and torqued them up to 10Nm as specified.

I know that many people routinely replace the water pump when renewing the cam belts and I understand the reasons behind this. However, your experience Einar and that of others suggests that this is not such a wise decision since you are now having to carry out the repair operation which you were hoping to avoid.

It's another example of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"!

Simon

xsport · 1st July 2023, 22:13

How many miles did you rack up einar on your waterpump since replacing it ? Quite a few i will bet. If it is then the chances are that the old one would have come out even earlier ......

I think the originals were good on average for around 60K ... but who knows ... how long that peice of string is.

22nd February 2018, 17:37	#174
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,552 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Shouldn't be a problem as you fitted them new in the first place, so you know no-one has been swinging on them and they haven't been tightened up like driveshaft nuts.

1st July 2023, 08:51	#178
beinet1 Posted a thing or two Rover 75 2.0 V6 Auto Join Date: May 2011 Location: Sandnes - Norway Posts: 1,560 Thanks: 64 Thanked 283 Times in 174 Posts	Ahh.... 8 years, 20000km and the Waterpump is now leaking badly!! Time to redo this operation , but I will replace the belts and water pump only. The rest is only mileage dependent items and do not have any due date..

1st July 2023, 22:13	#180
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,663 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	How many miles did you rack up einar on your waterpump since replacing it ? Quite a few i will bet. If it is then the chances are that the old one would have come out even earlier ...... I think the originals were good on average for around 60K ... but who knows ... how long that peice of string is.