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Old 29th May 2020, 09:05   #11
marinabrian
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I hope those nuts are stainless Aerotights?

Where did you get the paint and correct stickers for the shocks ?
I would hope not, stainless steel fasteners are not suitable for an application in this area
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Old 29th May 2020, 10:16   #12
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I would hope not, stainless steel fasteners are not suitable for an application in this area
No Brian, 8.8 plated the same that came out but I did wax coat them
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Old 29th May 2020, 11:19   #13
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Remember to check the runout on the hub prior to fitting the disc, this makes sure your starting point is correct. Something I didnít do until Julian pointed me in that direction, obvious when you think about it but we donít always think that way . Youíll be in for a shock as to how much difference cleaning the parts make and as Trikey states garages just bang the discs on as Iím sure most of us do/did
Finally got the DTI gauge. Run out on rear left hub was 0.02mm and rear right 0.01mm after cleaning. I thought not bad for 130k miles but I don't know if the bearings were ever changed before. Fitted new Mtec discs and was disappointed to find 0.14mm run out on the rear left. More cleaning and I now have 0.06mm run out. Just for academic interest I'm going to clean a bit more and play around to see what's the best possible. You were so right about the importance of the cleaning before fitting. Very helpful.
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Old 29th May 2020, 11:32   #14
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I would hope not, stainless steel fasteners are not suitable for an application in this area
zzzzzzzzzz - ignore old troll mode engaged.

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Old 29th May 2020, 11:40   #15
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Finally got the DTI gauge. Run out on rear left hub was 0.02mm and rear right 0.01mm after cleaning. I thought not bad for 130k miles but I don't know if the bearings were ever changed before. Fitted new Mtec discs and was disappointed to find 0.14mm run out on the rear left. More cleaning and I now have 0.06mm run out. Just for academic interest I'm going to clean a bit more and play around to see what's the best possible. You were so right about the importance of the cleaning before fitting. Very helpful.
I always clean the hub with a cup brush in the angle grinder, followed by a dose of brake cleaner, then clock the hub to check for runout.

Then on with the disc, bolt up with wheelnuts fitted with spacers and clock the runout once more.

I find you need to be careful with these, as pulling up the disc with a single screw can lead to inaccurate readings.
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Old 29th May 2020, 20:29   #16
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I always clean the hub with a cup brush in the angle grinder, followed by a dose of brake cleaner, then clock the hub to check for runout.

Then on with the disc, bolt up with wheelnuts fitted with spacers and clock the runout once more.

I find you need to be careful with these, as pulling up the disc with a single screw can lead to inaccurate readings.
I'll do it that way in the future for sure as I see the value in your advice. Just discovered for myself that just tightening the single torx bolt was dangerous if just tightened without stabilising the rest of the disc. I fitted a new Mtec disc and the run out reading was worse than the reading on the old one that decided me to replace
I went to a wire cup brush on a cordless drill for cleaning the hub as the hand brush just wasn't doing it. Got curious and found just cleaning my old discs got me to 0.08 mm on both fairly easily so they're probably OK for spares in the future with a bit more cleaning and then possibly skimming. I haven't measured the thickness yet.
Left rear hub run out was 0.02 mm and rear right hub was 0.01mm. With the new discs on I have 0.03mm rear left and 0.05mm rear right. Swapped them round while playing with the handbrake and got 0.02mm and 0.06mm.
Swapped back and finished at .03 and .05 again, so decided to leave it at that. Learned a lot from this exercise and appreciate all the pointers.
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Old 30th May 2020, 18:52   #17
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I got the struts blasted and painted now itís all going back together

Looking good Les
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