Sad now - Head gasket again - Page 4

Arryhall · 15th September 2018, 22:58

Hopefully, it IS a leak somewhere and not being sucked into the oil like last time.

Is it odd to actually HOPE for a leak?

I'll have a look tomorrow when I'm possibly feeling less despondent.

Arryhall · 16th September 2018, 00:48

Thanks man.

That's what happened last time, with the water going, the oil level rising and the disgusting mayo.
I can't imagine that much water was used that quickly though. My scare now is that the engine got hot, the liners sank and are now too low thus rendering the HGF again.
If it was a leak and not HGF, the engine may have overheated even for a few seconds but that has most likely CAUSED hgf again.

I really could cry. Apart from being too manly, of course.

Dawn · 16th September 2018, 07:32

This is how I felt after handing over £700.

The weird thing was I had no mayo. It lost water and oil quite randomly too. One journey empty header and another journey nothing! Got vapour from my exhaust though. I hope yours is a leak. I prayed for one but wasnt lucky! Im still paranoid as for some reason a digi gauge wont work on mine either!

SD1too · 16th September 2018, 07:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arryhall

... had done maybe a mile when I heard the fan come on. Stopped the car immediately and had a look under the bonnet.
Started the car after it had cooled down, and got rolling, then turned the engine off and coasted all the way back home.

You acted very sensibly Matthew. The fan starting without the temperature gauge flying into the red does not mean head gasket failure.
Keep calm and carry on!

Simon

Arryhall · 16th September 2018, 10:13

Checked the oil, NO signs of mayo or raised oil level.

Checked the water I topped up last night and it was all still there.

Started the motor, and had a watering can of water at the ready and watched as the level dropped.

No oil change, no mank in there, kept topping the water up, looked under and it was raining so couldn't see if the drips were from the car or the rain. Then I saw a bubbling orange bubble mass at the top left of the radiator where a pipe joins a pipe that seems to be welded into the rad itself. Watched and water came pouring out.

So....good news / bad news situation. It isn't a knackered engine, but it may be a new Rad. Which is probably cheaper than a new engine.

SD1too · 16th September 2018, 15:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arryhall

... but it may be a new Rad.

It may not even need that Matthew! Do some internet research* and see if there’s a radiator repairer in your area. If a joint just needs re-soldering that’s going to be a price which will make you smile (compared with a new radiator).

Simon

* Try Applied Radiators, Unit 2, Hanley Business Park, Stoke on Trent. ST1 4DW 01782 281628

Lovel · 16th September 2018, 16:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD1too

It may not even need that Matthew! Do some internet research* and see if there’s a radiator repairer in your area. If a joint just needs re-soldering that’s going to be a price which will make you smile (compared with a new radiator).

Simon

* Try Applied Radiators, Unit 2, Hanley Business Park, Stoke on Trent. ST1 4DW 01782 281628

The radiators are plastic and alloy with folded crimps in today’s motors. It is more economical to replace for new. I Think if you took a modern radiator to a heat exchanger repair shop they would have a good laugh. On the OP’s motor It sounds like the plastic elbow at the top left of the radiator is leaking or cracked?

BTW. The MGRover instructions for bleeding the coolant system in RAVE are at best marginal for a 1.8 turbo with PRT. If you follow their method to the letter you will still get air in the system, which on 50% of the times you carry it out will result in a surge of overheat for a few seconds. Here is the 100% risk free and reliable way to do it and it’s not in RAVE. Applies to the V6 and Diesel models perfectly (the token bleed screw is not touched during the process, I mean who puts a bleed screw half way up the cooling system, why not higher up?) Had a V6 to do last week and some days and miles later all that was topped was the difference between the low and high marks (120cc)
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=235300

Arryhall · 16th September 2018, 17:41

Thanks, I'll try giving them a call tomorrow to see what they reckon.

The bit what is leaking MAY be metal or may be very hard plastic. I don't know, but I'm sure they will, so I'll ask.

Does anyone know how much a replacement radiator is? Any members / sellers on here have one, as I'd like to support the site if I need one?

I am so happy it isn't hgf again, I can't even tell you. It may happen again at some point, but not today.

SD1too · 16th September 2018, 21:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lovel

The radiators are plastic and alloy with folded crimps in today’s motors.

Ah yes, I had forgotten that the “throw away” philosophy still exists alongside the current “recycle and re-use” mantra preached by the politicians. I suppose I was thinking of the recent successful re-coring of my SD1 radiator which re-used the same side tanks with which the car left the factory back in 1983. It’s a mad world.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lovel

Here is the 100% risk free and reliable way to do it and it’s not in RAVE. Applies to the V6 ...

Well if that works for you then fine. I’ve been using the official (RAVE) method on my V6 for over ten years with absolutely no problems at all. I must have a magic touch!

Simon

marinabrian · 16th September 2018, 21:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD1too

Ah yes, I had forgotten that the “throw away” philosophy still exists alongside the current “recycle and re-use” mantra preached by the politicians. I suppose I was thinking of the recent successful re-coring of my SD1 radiator which re-used the same side tanks with which the car left the factory back in 1983. It’s a mad world.

Well if that works for you then fine. I’ve been using the official (RAVE) method on my V6 for over ten years with absolutely no problems at all. I must have a magic touch!

Simon

The stated method for the 1800 in RAVE is not certainly not the best technique for the job Simon, this is based on experience.

I do agree with you in respect of radiators, it is much nicer to have a quality radiator refurbished with a new core, something I've had done in the past with various cars, and they are so much more substantial than the plastic tank, crimped aluminium rubbish fitted to modern cars.

Brian

16th September 2018, 10:13	#35
Arryhall Loves to post Rover 75 Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Biddulph Posts: 486 Thanks: 101 Thanked 145 Times in 90 Posts	It's a leak!!!!! Checked the oil, NO signs of mayo or raised oil level. Checked the water I topped up last night and it was all still there. Started the motor, and had a watering can of water at the ready and watched as the level dropped. No oil change, no mank in there, kept topping the water up, looked under and it was raining so couldn't see if the drips were from the car or the rain. Then I saw a bubbling orange bubble mass at the top left of the radiator where a pipe joins a pipe that seems to be welded into the rad itself. Watched and water came pouring out. So....good news / bad news situation. It isn't a knackered engine, but it may be a new Rad. Which is probably cheaper than a new engine.

15th September 2018, 22:58	#31
Arryhall Loves to post Rover 75 Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Biddulph Posts: 486 Thanks: 101 Thanked 145 Times in 90 Posts	Hopefully, it IS a leak somewhere and not being sucked into the oil like last time. Is it odd to actually HOPE for a leak? I'll have a look tomorrow when I'm possibly feeling less despondent.

16th September 2018, 00:48	#32
Arryhall Loves to post Rover 75 Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Biddulph Posts: 486 Thanks: 101 Thanked 145 Times in 90 Posts	Thanks man. That's what happened last time, with the water going, the oil level rising and the disgusting mayo. I can't imagine that much water was used that quickly though. My scare now is that the engine got hot, the liners sank and are now too low thus rendering the HGF again. If it was a leak and not HGF, the engine may have overheated even for a few seconds but that has most likely CAUSED hgf again. I really could cry. Apart from being too manly, of course.

16th September 2018, 07:32	#33
Dawn I really should get out more....... MG ZT 180+ auto Join Date: May 2016 Location: Ilkeston, Derbys Posts: 2,743 Thanks: 285 Thanked 1,128 Times in 504 Posts	This is how I felt after handing over £700. The weird thing was I had no mayo. It lost water and oil quite randomly too. One journey empty header and another journey nothing! Got vapour from my exhaust though. I hope yours is a leak. I prayed for one but wasnt lucky! Im still paranoid as for some reason a digi gauge wont work on mine either!

16th September 2018, 17:41	#38
Arryhall Loves to post Rover 75 Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Biddulph Posts: 486 Thanks: 101 Thanked 145 Times in 90 Posts	Thanks, I'll try giving them a call tomorrow to see what they reckon. The bit what is leaking MAY be metal or may be very hard plastic. I don't know, but I'm sure they will, so I'll ask. Does anyone know how much a replacement radiator is? Any members / sellers on here have one, as I'd like to support the site if I need one? I am so happy it isn't hgf again, I can't even tell you. It may happen again at some point, but not today.