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Old 6th February 2019, 22:16   #1
MGJohn
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Thumbs up MG ZT 1.8T Holed Coolant Hose repair.

One of the many things I like about the MG6 Engine I fitted to my ZT-T 1.8T a few years ago was that the coolant level in the Expansion tank was always stable.

Following my fitting a new Clutch Slave Cylinder last Autumn, the coolant level remained stable then I noticed a slight drop. That was unusual. The coolant loss although slight started to increase and now there were sometimes tell tale small pools of coolant under the gearbox area.

That was about a month ago and I stopped using the car except for short journeys awaiting a return of milder temperatures to look at the car. Still cold but milder today so I decided to take a closer look. Removal of the Air Filter Housing revealed where the coolant was escaping from.

Note dampness on the hose near the 8mm Coolant Tube Bleed Bolt and more escaped coolant collected in the webbing on top of the Bell Housing.



Small hole detected in the area close to the sharp point of the Hex Headed 8mm Bolt. This had punctured the hose.



Very small hole on the hose just in front of my finger tip. :~



Using a very sharp Stanley type Carpet Knife, I cut the hose exactly across the spot where the hole was. I had off cuts of Copper Household Tubing in the two regular sizes. The smaller diameter copper pipe was just a tad too small in diameter so a loose fit. Not suitable. Whilst the larger diameter off cut, could be forcibly pushed into the hose with some manual effort but would stress the rubber material over time. I looked in my boxes of oddments and found a metal Tow Bar Bolt Spacer about 7CM long which was tailor made for the job. A perfect fit and two new worm drive fasteners completed this temporary fix. Which will probably last at least until the summer when complete hose renewal may be done. We shall see how the fix shapes up. Do not fancy that hose renewal which passes through the bulkhead. Lot of difficult access work there I bet.



I used two pieces of larger diameter coolant hose off cuts wrapped around the repair arera as added protection to ensure now more holes ...A Zip Tie held it in place.:~



Topped up the Cooling system and took car for a nice ten mile run to get the engine fully warmed up. Heater got nice and warm just as I like it. In daylight tomorrow I'll check the repair to ensure all is well.
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Old 8th February 2019, 19:16   #2
MGJohn
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Question Now a question about Coolant Temperature.

Since my bodge~mod to fix the rubber coolant hose pinhole leak, the car has covered about seventy miles. Coolant checks showed a return to that nice stable level. Have checked level three times now following 10-to-15 mile trips with the coolant getting up to 90-91 reading on the 19-OFF-7 display using the Trip Zero Button.



So a simple question, is this reading a sign of a healthy cooling system? The reading never moved above 91. It hovered between 90-91 once up to that level.
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Old 8th February 2019, 20:03   #3
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So a simple question, is this reading a sign of a healthy cooling system? The reading never moved above 91. It hovered between 90-91 once up to that level.

Spot on I'd say. Mine always ran at around 95C with the original (buff) PRT, which showed a nice response to pump pressure (i.e. engine revs). With an experimental swap to the then specified black version, normal running was brought down to 87-90 degrees, but with much less revs sensitivity. I suppose there will be differences depending on thermostat type. I believe the earliest 1.8Ts may have had the conventional stat, which became the PRT sometime after 2003, though I'm probably wrong on that. Anyway, the current selection of aftermarket PRTs is a quagmire. They're no longer specified with both temperature and relief spring pressure variations and can only be regarded as conventional inline thermostats. The latest meaningful recommendation from Xpart was several years ago and was for the grey version. Now, I doubt anyone knows what's right.



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Old 8th February 2019, 20:25   #4
VVC-Geeza
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Yep mine runs between 89-91.
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Old 8th February 2019, 21:34   #5
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Thumbs up

Thanks for the responses ... nice to know my ZT-T's coolant temperature runs ... normally.

One thing is most certain, the heat output from the heater matrix is very warm, hot even and just about right to sooth my old bones and muscles until the warmer weather returns. I have fitted the "Climate Control" panel from the MG 7 and that is easier to read and operate because of a larger clearer display and better button locations.
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Old 9th February 2019, 11:21   #6
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I have fitted the "Climate Control" panel from the MG 7 and that is easier to read and operate because of a larger clearer display and better button locations.

I have one too, but found the display much too dim to read. I made a radical adjustment to the way the screen is backlit.


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Old 9th February 2019, 11:38   #7
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Yep mine runs between 89-91.
yep -88-92 for me - with a buff thermostat - landrover i think .
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  • 59th ZT-T 160 (1.8T) to be made out of 118
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Old 9th February 2019, 13:25   #8
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I have one too, but found the display much too dim to read. I made a radical adjustment to the way the screen is backlit.


TC
I have an MG 7 unit and like you found it way too dim to see in sunlight - can you in laymans terms explain what you have done so i can ask my autosparks to upgrade the unit which has been in my boot for the last 2 years.

Cheers
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Old 9th February 2019, 15:52   #9
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- - - can you in laymans terms explain what you have done - - -

I'll try - it's been a while, but I did take photos. Basically I replaced the frosted plastic slab behind the display screen with my own custom made light source. This is a separately powered array of 20 amber SMD LEDs soldered to a circuit board. The board was made in classic amateur fashion by copper etching the circuit traces and soldering pads of standard copper clad board. Of course I had to learn how to do it first and I bought the chemicals from ebay. I felt it was worth the effort having paid a lot for the MG7 kit and really wanted to keep it. It involved a lot of trial and error, but I found it all qute fascinating.


So, it's not for the faint hearted. I could write up a HowTo if there's any interest in the MG7 kit these days.


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Old 9th February 2019, 15:58   #10
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Thumbs up Bravo ...

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Originally Posted by T-Cut View Post
I'll try - it's been a while, but I did take photos. Basically I replaced the frosted plastic slab behind the display screen with my own custom made light source. This is a separately powered array of 20 amber SMD LEDs soldered to a circuit board. The board was made in classic amateur fashion by copper etching the circuit traces and soldering pads of standard copper clad board. Of course I had to learn how to do it first and I bought the chemicals from ebay. I felt it was worth the effort having paid a lot for the MG7 kit and really wanted to keep it. It involved a lot of trial and error, but I found it all qute fascinating.

So, it's not for the faint hearted. I could write up a HowTo if there's any interest in the MG7 kit these days.


TC
Bravo! That is a some skill set you displayed there TC. Far beyond mine.
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