alternater replacement MG ZT-T CDTI

Dino · 27th November 2012, 18:32

Has anyone got any experience with replacing the alternater on the MG 2.0 Diesel? Mr Haynes says to remove the radiator which means also removing the entire front bumper and discharging the air con system because the condensor needs removing as well as the radiator. Anyway I contacted a local alternater supplier ( S.A.C.) in Coventry and was advised that the alternater can be removed by simply unbolting the air-con compressor, leaving the refridgeration hoses attatched. I have got this far and have undone the two visible bolts on the alternater. However I can't even get a spanner or socket on the remaining third bolt. HELP PLEASE....

Kev75 · 27th November 2012, 18:40

Hi

Never done one myself but I think you can get it off from below

Kev

sworks · 27th November 2012, 19:00

The last One I did a few years ago I removed the front end and lifted the radiator out the way. I believe if you unbolt the AC compressor it's do-able but still quite tight to remove?

oldcarguy · 27th November 2012, 19:24

No need to discharge the AC when going from the front, drain coolant, remove bumper, lights, power steering oil rail, slam panel and ease the rad forward a few inches, I assume you have the tensioner tool for the ancillary belt, and change the AC drive belt at the same time.

windrush · 28th November 2012, 08:49

I left mine to a Rover specialist and I believe that they done the job from underneath

FrenchMike · 28th November 2012, 08:52

Hi,

From somone ,somewhere here:

How to Replace the Alternator on a 2002 Rover 75 CDT 2 litre

Firstly I consulted the Haynes Manual and that told me to remove the Radiator and drain the water and disconnect the AC. This seemed very long winded and would add more expense so I have devised my own way of doing it. It took alot of thinking about but it works and is not very complicated just fiddly at times. I did everything from underneath the car which had the front on axle stands and bricks under the rear wheels.

Procedure
1. Loosen the wheel nuts on the drivers side (UK cars).
2. Jack up the front of the car and place safely on stands with bricks or something under the rear wheels and handbrake hard on.
3. Disconnet the battery Negative and move wire away.
4. Remove front wheel and the engine tray if you still have it.
5. Remove the plastic wheel arch liner being careful when disconnecting the ABS and Brake pad sensors. One scrivet behind the main strut was a real pig.
6. Slacken the AC belt using a 10mm and 22mm socket. I got my wife to buy the 10mm and 22mm sockets which fit properly over the bolt head so as not to round over the edges.
7. Remove 2 x 8mm bolts on side of engine, 1 x 8mm bolt of front of engine and the rubber covered bracket (13mm nut and bolt) to allow the Black Coolent Pipe that runs across the car between the radiator and the sump to be moved carefully back under the sump so it is out of the way as there is plenty of slack to do that. The 10mm bolt on the front took ages to do up when reassembling as its not very visible.
8. Remove the 3 x 10mm bolts that hold the AC compressor being careful not to let it drop. One of the bolts is a bit awkward and you MUST put it through the AC Unit first before putting back together as you wont get it in the hole if you have tightened up the other 2 bolts as the chassis gets in the way. You will need to move the AC Compressor from left to right from now on to get at the remaining bolts. Be careful when doing this so as not to damage the Radiator as the AC Compressor is still plummed in and the rubber hoses will move around too.
9. Remove the AC bracket. There are 3 x 10mm bolts. Easiest bit of all.
10. The next step is to slacken the Ancillary belt. Words of caution here. Firstly note how the Ancillary belt runs, either check the Haynes manual if you have one or Rave if you have it or just make a diagram of how it goes, its hard to see exactly and it took me ages to work it out. Also, you will need a thick/tuff gardening type glove and a 24mm ring spanner. Put the ring end of the spanner on the tensioner. There isn't alot of room between the tensioner and the chassis but brute force gets it on. Now put the gardening glove on and turn/pull the tensioner anti-clockwise. The glove protects the hand should the spanner fly off as there is a great deal on tension on it and lots of metal around. I didn't wear a glove and I now have butterfly stitches on 2 fingers and they hurt alot (thankfully a neighbour is a trainer first aider). Now with tension applied slip the Ancillary belt off the Alternator.
11. Unclip the wires from the Alternator, a bit fiddly but my wife had smaller hands and unplugged it for me. Now remove the thick wire from the Alternator, it has a 13mm nut.
12. Now remove the 3 bolts that hold the Alternator, the 1 on the back is 10mm and the 2 on the front are 13mm, the upper of the 2 on the front must have the bolt pushed through it when putting the new Alternator in as you wont be able to once the 2 other bolts are in and tight as there isn't the room to push the bolt through afterwards thanks to the chassis.
13. Now carefully drop the Alternator out, gravity is useful occassionally.
14. You are now ready to put the new Alternator in and the procedure is the reverse of the above.

Good luck

Mike

Jim Jamieson · 28th November 2012, 21:29

I replaced mine on the diesel about three years ago and took the front end off. You can swing the aircon unit to one side to prevent a re gas but IMO it's the best way.
I seriously doubt if it can be done any easier from the bottom by removing the aircon compressor.

In all I did it over a weekend but I also did a lot of other work like replacing the auxilliary belt, cleaned up the intercooler etc.
If you look on my posts I have some photos of it, I think under "my two 75's" topic.

Good luck JYJ

27th November 2012, 18:32	#1
Dino Newbie MG ZT-T Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Coventry Posts: 2 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	alternater replacement MG ZT-T CDTI Has anyone got any experience with replacing the alternater on the MG 2.0 Diesel? Mr Haynes says to remove the radiator which means also removing the entire front bumper and discharging the air con system because the condensor needs removing as well as the radiator. Anyway I contacted a local alternater supplier ( S.A.C.) in Coventry and was advised that the alternater can be removed by simply unbolting the air-con compressor, leaving the refridgeration hoses attatched. I have got this far and have undone the two visible bolts on the alternater. However I can't even get a spanner or socket on the remaining third bolt. HELP PLEASE....

27th November 2012, 18:40	#2
Kev75 Avid contributor Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Nantwich Posts: 151 Thanks: 260 Thanked 41 Times in 34 Posts	alternater replacement MG ZT-T CDTI Hi Never done one myself but I think you can get it off from below Kev

27th November 2012, 19:00	#3
sworks Been absent for a while… Rover 75 Tourer, Classic mini Cooper S, Abarth 595 competizione, MG TF and a Hyundai Tucson PHEV Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Cumbria Posts: 13,065 Thanks: 1,033 Thanked 1,686 Times in 1,040 Posts	The last One I did a few years ago I removed the front end and lifted the radiator out the way. I believe if you unbolt the AC compressor it's do-able but still quite tight to remove? __________________ ................................................. 'Marmite' Possibly one of the most famous 75 tourers produced! left the production line as the last of only Three Rover 75 tourers produced in Trophy Yellow. 48 hours later Longbridge closed. The last sold ordered 75 Tourer. Paid for by the Phoenix Four and handed over by John Towers to the Warwickshire Northampton Air ambulance service as a Rapid Response vehicle

28th November 2012, 08:49	#5
windrush This is my second home December 2004 Rover 75 2ltr CDTi Connoisseur SE HL Tourer Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Aldershot Posts: 74,464 Thanks: 2,431 Thanked 3,015 Times in 2,347 Posts	I left mine to a Rover specialist and I believe that they done the job from underneath __________________ ][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] My Pearl Black Beauty Best regards Lilian and Derek Club Member No. 96 / Forum User No. 111 REGISTRATION to the club as a member FREE, FULL MEMBERSHIP is £10 WE WILL REMEMBER THEM

27th November 2012, 19:24	#4
oldcarguy Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Conn SE Tourer Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Driffield Posts: 1,952 Thanks: 27 Thanked 151 Times in 125 Posts	No need to discharge the AC when going from the front, drain coolant, remove bumper, lights, power steering oil rail, slam panel and ease the rad forward a few inches, I assume you have the tensioner tool for the ancillary belt, and change the AC drive belt at the same time.

28th November 2012, 08:52	#6
FrenchMike This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Avignon Posts: 4,466 Thanks: 94 Thanked 661 Times in 554 Posts	Hi, From somone ,somewhere here: How to Replace the Alternator on a 2002 Rover 75 CDT 2 litre Firstly I consulted the Haynes Manual and that told me to remove the Radiator and drain the water and disconnect the AC. This seemed very long winded and would add more expense so I have devised my own way of doing it. It took alot of thinking about but it works and is not very complicated just fiddly at times. I did everything from underneath the car which had the front on axle stands and bricks under the rear wheels. Procedure 1. Loosen the wheel nuts on the drivers side (UK cars). 2. Jack up the front of the car and place safely on stands with bricks or something under the rear wheels and handbrake hard on. 3. Disconnet the battery Negative and move wire away. 4. Remove front wheel and the engine tray if you still have it. 5. Remove the plastic wheel arch liner being careful when disconnecting the ABS and Brake pad sensors. One scrivet behind the main strut was a real pig. 6. Slacken the AC belt using a 10mm and 22mm socket. I got my wife to buy the 10mm and 22mm sockets which fit properly over the bolt head so as not to round over the edges. 7. Remove 2 x 8mm bolts on side of engine, 1 x 8mm bolt of front of engine and the rubber covered bracket (13mm nut and bolt) to allow the Black Coolent Pipe that runs across the car between the radiator and the sump to be moved carefully back under the sump so it is out of the way as there is plenty of slack to do that. The 10mm bolt on the front took ages to do up when reassembling as its not very visible. 8. Remove the 3 x 10mm bolts that hold the AC compressor being careful not to let it drop. One of the bolts is a bit awkward and you MUST put it through the AC Unit first before putting back together as you wont get it in the hole if you have tightened up the other 2 bolts as the chassis gets in the way. You will need to move the AC Compressor from left to right from now on to get at the remaining bolts. Be careful when doing this so as not to damage the Radiator as the AC Compressor is still plummed in and the rubber hoses will move around too. 9. Remove the AC bracket. There are 3 x 10mm bolts. Easiest bit of all. 10. The next step is to slacken the Ancillary belt. Words of caution here. Firstly note how the Ancillary belt runs, either check the Haynes manual if you have one or Rave if you have it or just make a diagram of how it goes, its hard to see exactly and it took me ages to work it out. Also, you will need a thick/tuff gardening type glove and a 24mm ring spanner. Put the ring end of the spanner on the tensioner. There isn't alot of room between the tensioner and the chassis but brute force gets it on. Now put the gardening glove on and turn/pull the tensioner anti-clockwise. The glove protects the hand should the spanner fly off as there is a great deal on tension on it and lots of metal around. I didn't wear a glove and I now have butterfly stitches on 2 fingers and they hurt alot (thankfully a neighbour is a trainer first aider). Now with tension applied slip the Ancillary belt off the Alternator. 11. Unclip the wires from the Alternator, a bit fiddly but my wife had smaller hands and unplugged it for me. Now remove the thick wire from the Alternator, it has a 13mm nut. 12. Now remove the 3 bolts that hold the Alternator, the 1 on the back is 10mm and the 2 on the front are 13mm, the upper of the 2 on the front must have the bolt pushed through it when putting the new Alternator in as you wont be able to once the 2 other bolts are in and tight as there isn't the room to push the bolt through afterwards thanks to the chassis. 13. Now carefully drop the Alternator out, gravity is useful occassionally. 14. You are now ready to put the new Alternator in and the procedure is the reverse of the above. Good luck Mike

28th November 2012, 21:29	#7
Jim Jamieson This is my second home Rover less ! Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Tarbolton Posts: 3,442 Thanks: 393 Thanked 888 Times in 542 Posts	I replaced mine on the diesel about three years ago and took the front end off. You can swing the aircon unit to one side to prevent a re gas but IMO it's the best way. I seriously doubt if it can be done any easier from the bottom by removing the aircon compressor. In all I did it over a weekend but I also did a lot of other work like replacing the auxilliary belt, cleaned up the intercooler etc. If you look on my posts I have some photos of it, I think under "my two 75's" topic. Good luck JYJ