Rear Upper Arms - Improved part now test-fitted to a car! Not long now...

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Well I haven't had to buy in a packet of Mr Kipling jam tarts, so it's not me Steve

In answer to your first question, I would say yes.

I certainly have done so on every arm I've fitted to any of my cars, but then again every (Indian) arm I've fitted has required the rose joint yolk pulled into shape, which meant the tack weld had to be removed.

Hi Brian.
Would you say from the photos below that the drain hole in the cup need to come inboard a little too, or is it the photo of the new ones which is making them look slightly out of place to the originals ? maybe Matt can answer the question.



Indian one is top, take note of the drain holes.
1


New DMGRS arm also take note of the drain holes, should they be Where the white dots are.
2

[Sonic ZS]

Not wishing to take anything away from the great work that's already been done on this, but is there any chance of getting arms without the coating so they could be galvanised ?

Also, are the bushes available - I'm assuming they're not included ? Cheers

[roverbarmy]

Originally Posted by Sonic ZS

Not wishing to take anything away from the great work that's already been done on this, but is there any chance of getting arms without the coating so they could be galvanised ?

Also, are the bushes available - I'm assuming they're not included ? Cheers

Most "proper" galvanisers put the items in a stripping bath first, to remove any impurities on the metal. Any paint would be stripped off in the process.

[vitesse]

Originally Posted by roverbarmy

Most "proper" galvanisers put the items in a stripping bath first, to remove any impurities on the metal. Any paint would be stripped off in the process.

Hot galvanising or fake? Any items that came into our place were first sandblasted to remove any paint and then went for a swim in hydrochloric acid. Sometimes some paint was missed, the acid didn't remove it and we had to do that manually with a dreadnought file.

If Sonic ZS wants to get them dipped in zinc then any rubber items would of course have to be removed (420c), and perhaps a few holes drilled to allow air to escape.

Regards

[bikerdude666]

Originally Posted by DMGRS

Right, an update!

A change from our previous posts is the metal thickness - we've been in talks with the OE supplier manufacturing these for us and agreed we can marginally increase the thickness without raising concerns elsewhere.
It's not a huge difference - the arm will weigh around 300-400g more than the original - but every little helps as they say.

We're expecting a full review from an MG Rover specialist who is fitting our engineering sample set today - we've already had them test-fitted elsewhere and received glowing reviews, however another can't hurt.

The big update is that pricing has been confirmed, and can be viewed here: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/com...4962-rgg104972

Club discount will of course be available as usual, and with the already-competitive pricing these will hopefully help keep our fine cars on the road.

Showing as sold out and no price shown...

[Blink]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Brian.
Would you say from the photos below that the drain hole in the cup need to come inboard a little too, or is it the photo of the new ones which is making them look slightly out of place to the originals ? maybe Matt can answer the question.



Indian one is top, take note of the drain holes.
1


New DMGRS arm also take note of the drain holes, should they be were the white dots are.
2

Steve - the Indian arm in pic 1 above is one of this pair (pics taken in 2019 before repaint & wax).





See posts 14-31 here - https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...=300184&page=2.


Here's a closer crop of the one on the right above ...



.... and the one on the left.



As I said in the other thread, the drain holes on an Indian arm are too close to the vertical wall of the spring cup and the rubber isolator doesn't sit flat on the floor of the cup. The solution (Brian's) is to trim about 5mm off the outer edge of the isolator with some tin snips.**

** I said this was tricky in the other thread (post 17) but I was wrong - it's easy when you buy a decent pair of tin snips!

[gnu]

What’s the relevance of the drain hole position being exactly the same as the original? Or is it just an observation that that aspect isn’t an exact copy?

[Arctic]

Hi Michael.
if the drain holes are not in the right place the spring cup will hold water, as the rubber isolator as cut outs which need to line up with the drain holes.
1

The rubber also as the light bulb attachment which locks into the cup.
2

3

Its not good for spring to be sitting in water.
4

[DMGRS]

Originally Posted by bikerdude666

Showing as sold out and no price shown...

There's a table on the page showing pricing - we've not opened up ordering just yet; we're waiting for our production slot to be finalised (in a week or two) before we do.
That's why they're showing as sold out, as we have zero available in our inventory until pre-orders open.

[DMGRS]

Originally Posted by Sonic ZS

Not wishing to take anything away from the great work that's already been done on this, but is there any chance of getting arms without the coating so they could be galvanised ?

Also, are the bushes available - I'm assuming they're not included ? Cheers

Unfortunately we've gone for the long-life coating inside and out as 99.9% of customers would prefer this - but as mentioned, you can strip this off if you want to coat them your own way.
Any one-off different coatings would be a different batch, and the costs associated with this don't make it worthwhile unfortunately.