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29th January 2012, 22:28 | #11 |
This is my second home
MG ZT260 SE, MG ZT190+, MG ZTT 160, R75 Conn SE 2.0, R75 Conn SE 2.5 X 3, R75 Club SE 1.8, P5B Coupe Join Date: Jul 2009
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Yep, at a guess the 2/4 Brake Duty Solenoid, the usual culprit for harsh gear changes.
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30th January 2012, 02:52 | #12 | |
I really should get out more.......
2003 Rover 75 Conn. SE Auto Tourer 131 ps CDTi Join Date: Nov 2006
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Quote:
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Rover 75 CDTi SE Connoisseur Tourer (2003) In desirable STARLIGHT SILVER (now restored to it's former glory with all the chrome !) |
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30th January 2012, 06:50 | #13 |
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Landrover agents supply this solenoid for about £35-40.
Matt |
30th January 2012, 07:36 | #14 |
Posted a thing or two
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i used a seconhand box that was recon it had all brand new ones in so paid £150 for the box i have seen brand new sets on ebay for around £220
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http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...y%20se/sig.jpg spoilt as i own a cdt auto connoisseur se cdt auto member 829 mods so far synergy 2 heated washer jets cant really add anything else as it has it all lol
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30th January 2012, 08:33 | #15 | |
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My findings, All tested with my meter on the 200k bit of resistance 1+2 126.4 3+4 0.19 suspect! intermediate speed shaft sensor 5+6 126.5 18+9 18.6 18+10 18.1 18+11 6.6 18+12 11.5 18+13 18.1 18+14 18.7 18+15 18.4 18+16 15.6 18+17 20.2 Basically im asking how reliable is this test ? was my meter on the right setting(200k) ? and where do i go from here thanks all |
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30th January 2012, 09:40 | #16 | |
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From memory (dont have an auto now) the resistances are measured from the pins and not sockets on the connector by the battery box/wing. The other problem you have is that your fault is intermittant and is almost certainly a dry joint from one of the solenoid casings to the windings which will be ok one minute and not the next. Matt |
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30th January 2012, 10:00 | #17 |
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yeah its just weird how some of the readings came out spot on ? i measured from the female connector. Thinking of getting a T4 on it, theres a local place that does it for £25. That will hopefully give me the anwser. unless anyone else can help me out with any other words of wisdom. Im gutted about this only had the car a couple of months, moved from my old high mile manual as i feared the clutch going !
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30th January 2012, 10:01 | #18 |
Doesn't do things by halves
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Yes, that's fine, although to measure 627 ohms (highest quoted) using a lower range (if you have one) might make the figures easier to interpret.
Note that Matt said use the pins, i.e. the male connector. I'd have another shot at it if I were you. A T4 won't necessarily indicate the precise problem. Simon.
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"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. Last edited by SD1too; 30th January 2012 at 10:04.. |
30th January 2012, 10:39 | #19 |
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I tried it on lower settings but didnt pick anything upjust displayed 1 . OK i will try again on the pins side, can anyone clarify which side i need to test for definate?
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30th January 2012, 11:39 | #20 |
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Normally multimeters are ranged 0-200ohms, 0-2000, 0-200k, 200k+
To get an accurate reading of the low resistances use the 0-200 scale and the next scale up for any readings in the hundreds. The 200k(thousand) scale will not be accurate for low ohm readings. Also touch the leads together before carrying out the readings and subtract the resistance of the leads from your measured value. Good Luck |
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