replacing high pressure pump

craig8661 · 29th June 2012, 08:29

hi there just wondering have the special tool to stop sproket falling in but nothing on how im sopposed to use the tool.

do you wind the outer in then crack the nut on the pump then wind the center piece in.

or do you crack the nut of the pump remove nut then wind outer in then wind center part in to push the pump out of the sprocket.

im going back to northern ireland on tuesday morning to do the job on the pump as the car broke down about 8 weeks ago when it dropped 30 liters of diesel into the sump via the high pressure pump.

any info will be brill as i have never done this job to the 75 before.

im going to replace the pcv new oil filters etc

Bigcul1 · 29th June 2012, 12:42

have you tried reading the following:

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andymacs/

Charlesz · 29th June 2012, 18:29

Hi,

my method:
put a jack under the sump to support the engine,
remove covers, inlet manifold and starter (this def. gives you more working room) and undo the top engine mounting (think this was an odd 18mm socket - and a shallow socket fits more easily). EGR was undone and you end up taking the diesel return pipes out of the way.

you need to undo the cover from the timing case - i used an oil change socket from Halfords as i didn't have anything the right size - which i then sold with the sprocket tool when i'd finished.

if you have a buddy get them to pull the engine forwards slightly to get into the nut on the pump drive. it's easier with a buddy - but i did this a couple of times without - use the jack to raise things up a bit & give you a bit more knuckle room down the side.

undo and remove the nut from the pump (think this was a 21mm socket - again a shallow one gives you a little more room to play with).

then screw in the sleeve. this screws into the sprocket and holds it in place against the cover.

undo the 3 torx bolts holding the pump on (other end). Don't drop them down the back of the pump. Don't know quite where that goes but there are 2 sockets stuck in there on mine now.

With the 3 torx bolts undone (or slackened off) screw the other part of the socket tool through. with a little effort (Torque setting must have been "pretty tight" rather than "F-tight") it will push the pump off the sprocket. you can then remove it.

refitting pretty much reverse of this really - don't need the middle of the sprocket tool so take that out but leave the sleeve in, mate up the pump, tighten the torx bolts, then put the nut back on the back through the hole, and tighten everything back up. Make sure it doesn't leak when you start.

It probably took 2 hours to do first time (to take 1 out and put 1 back in).

For the pump repair I tried the bosh repair kits (thanks to DieselBob) - but the pumps are fiddly. the covers are sort of under a spring tension because of the cam inside and mating anything even slightly out of true pinches the seals (i found this). I ended up taking mine to a local independent diesel engineer who refurbed the whole lot for about £150 plus another duff pump that he could keep as spares. when he'd done it was tested on his rig properly so it was definitely working. i wished i'd just gone straight to him to start with - rather than faffing about swapping pumps around with others that were duff when they arrived courtesy of ebay - one looked like it was full of soap when it arrived).

hope this helps,

Charles

craig8661 · 29th June 2012, 18:54

That's a very good write up I hope all goes well on Tuesday with it

Charlesz · 30th June 2012, 02:56

Yes, good luck! It's not so bad a job once you're underway,

2 things I meant to add. Be careful with the jack on the sump, you don't want to break anything (you probably know this anyway), and the top engine mount doesn't have to come off completely despite what the manual says, you can undo the top of the bracket and then remove the big lump of alloy off the top, leaving the rubber bush in place. Sure you ll figure it out...

Good luck again..

Charles.

ahp · 1st July 2012, 22:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Charlesz

Yes, good luck! It's not so bad a job once you're underway,

2 things I meant to add. Be careful with the jack on the sump, you don't want to break anything (you probably know this anyway), and the top engine mount doesn't have to come off completely despite what the manual says, you can undo the top of the bracket and then remove the big lump of alloy off the top, leaving the rubber bush in place. Sure you ll figure it out...

Good luck again..

Charles.

Charles, what were your symptoms when the pump failed? Was it a gradual deteriation or sudden failure?
I'm trying to diagnose an intermittant non starting cdt.
Won't start and then if it does. runs faultlessly for several days, then dies again.
regards
Tony

29th June 2012, 08:29	#1
craig8661 Posted a thing or two rover 75 tourer cdt Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Chesterfield Posts: 1,924 Thanks: 3 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	replacing high pressure pump hi there just wondering have the special tool to stop sproket falling in but nothing on how im sopposed to use the tool. do you wind the outer in then crack the nut on the pump then wind the center piece in. or do you crack the nut of the pump remove nut then wind outer in then wind center part in to push the pump out of the sprocket. im going back to northern ireland on tuesday morning to do the job on the pump as the car broke down about 8 weeks ago when it dropped 30 liters of diesel into the sump via the high pressure pump. any info will be brill as i have never done this job to the 75 before. im going to replace the pcv new oil filters etc __________________ http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...y%20se/sig.jpg spoilt as i own a cdt auto connoisseur se cdt auto member 829 mods so far synergy 2 heated washer jets cant really add anything else as it has it all lol

29th June 2012, 18:54	#4
craig8661 Posted a thing or two rover 75 tourer cdt Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Chesterfield Posts: 1,924 Thanks: 3 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	That's a very good write up I hope all goes well on Tuesday with it __________________ http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...y%20se/sig.jpg spoilt as i own a cdt auto connoisseur se cdt auto member 829 mods so far synergy 2 heated washer jets cant really add anything else as it has it all lol

29th June 2012, 12:42	#2
Bigcul1 Gets stuck in Rover 75 CDTi Con SE Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Northallerton Posts: 846 Thanks: 123 Thanked 131 Times in 91 Posts	have you tried reading the following: http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andymacs/

29th June 2012, 18:29	#3
Charlesz Newbie Rover 75 Tourer Conn SE Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Cantebrury Posts: 20 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Hi, my method: put a jack under the sump to support the engine, remove covers, inlet manifold and starter (this def. gives you more working room) and undo the top engine mounting (think this was an odd 18mm socket - and a shallow socket fits more easily). EGR was undone and you end up taking the diesel return pipes out of the way. you need to undo the cover from the timing case - i used an oil change socket from Halfords as i didn't have anything the right size - which i then sold with the sprocket tool when i'd finished. if you have a buddy get them to pull the engine forwards slightly to get into the nut on the pump drive. it's easier with a buddy - but i did this a couple of times without - use the jack to raise things up a bit & give you a bit more knuckle room down the side. undo and remove the nut from the pump (think this was a 21mm socket - again a shallow one gives you a little more room to play with). then screw in the sleeve. this screws into the sprocket and holds it in place against the cover. undo the 3 torx bolts holding the pump on (other end). Don't drop them down the back of the pump. Don't know quite where that goes but there are 2 sockets stuck in there on mine now. With the 3 torx bolts undone (or slackened off) screw the other part of the socket tool through. with a little effort (Torque setting must have been "pretty tight" rather than "F-tight") it will push the pump off the sprocket. you can then remove it. refitting pretty much reverse of this really - don't need the middle of the sprocket tool so take that out but leave the sleeve in, mate up the pump, tighten the torx bolts, then put the nut back on the back through the hole, and tighten everything back up. Make sure it doesn't leak when you start. It probably took 2 hours to do first time (to take 1 out and put 1 back in). For the pump repair I tried the bosh repair kits (thanks to DieselBob) - but the pumps are fiddly. the covers are sort of under a spring tension because of the cam inside and mating anything even slightly out of true pinches the seals (i found this). I ended up taking mine to a local independent diesel engineer who refurbed the whole lot for about £150 plus another duff pump that he could keep as spares. when he'd done it was tested on his rig properly so it was definitely working. i wished i'd just gone straight to him to start with - rather than faffing about swapping pumps around with others that were duff when they arrived courtesy of ebay - one looked like it was full of soap when it arrived). hope this helps, Charles

30th June 2012, 02:56	#5
Charlesz Newbie Rover 75 Tourer Conn SE Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Cantebrury Posts: 20 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Yes, good luck! It's not so bad a job once you're underway, 2 things I meant to add. Be careful with the jack on the sump, you don't want to break anything (you probably know this anyway), and the top engine mount doesn't have to come off completely despite what the manual says, you can undo the top of the bracket and then remove the big lump of alloy off the top, leaving the rubber bush in place. Sure you ll figure it out... Good luck again.. Charles.