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Old 15th September 2014, 15:56   #1
NLP01
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Default Rover 75 1.8t clutch problems

Hello everyone and sorry for my English, is not my mother tongue,

A few weeks ago, my old clutch plates began to slip. I had to change it. The price for the parts that my local garage offered me was very expensive for me, so I decided to buy the parts by myself. I thought that I had bought a B&B 3 parts kit, by finally I received A B&B slave cylinder and national clutch plates. To not waste time, I decided go to my local garage, and they put these parts.

After replace the kit all looked ok but after 3 or 4 days driving, change the gears started to be hard, close to impossible and finally I had to stop my car. I came back to the garage and they bled the hydraulic system. After that, the car worked ok but again happened the same, the mechanic did the same and one more time happened the same thing. Finally we decided to change the master cylinder, I bought a TAZU master cylinder and my local garage put it. That was a few days ago but I have the same problem.

All the times, I can feel how the point in which the system clutch and declutch, moves gradually down until the system is not be able to declutch and the clutch pedal becomes soft. Always after bled the system, the problem come back after 3 or 4 days driving but during this time I can feel how every day the declutch point is more down that the day before. The system works specially bad after drive a while, when is hot. I mean, after drive 40 min in a traffic jam is nearly to impossible to change the gears, the next day I can to drive for 30 min... and finally I can drive only 10 min, really I don't know where is the limit because always I have tried to stop as soon as I could after feel that. In any case have been impossible not to force the system. Also with every new purge, change the gears have been more hard, I think that is due to force transmission.

For me looks like a leak in the master or slave cylinder and some air goes inside which expands when is hot. My mechanic thinks more that are the clutch plates, that with the hot, the metal becomes weak and is not be able to declutch.


Before to pay more labour, I want to know your diagnosis and if anyone has something similar happened.


Thanks so much.
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Old 15th September 2014, 16:31   #2
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Originally Posted by pillao75 View Post
Hello everyone and sorry for my English, is not my mother tongue,

A few weeks ago, my old clutch plates began to slip. I had to change it. The price for the parts that my local garage offered me was very expensive for me, so I decided to buy the parts by myself. I thought that I had bought a B&B 3 parts kit, by finally I received A B&B slave cylinder and national clutch plates. To not waste time, I decided go to my local garage, and they put these parts.

After replace the kit all looked ok but after 3 or 4 days driving, change the gears started to be hard, close to impossible and finally I had to stop my car. I came back to the garage and they bled the hydraulic system. After that, the car worked ok but again happened the same, the mechanic did the same and one more time happened the same thing. Finally we decided to change the master cylinder, I bought a TAZU master cylinder and my local garage put it. That was a few days ago but I have the same problem.

All the times, I can feel how the point in which the system clutch and declutch, moves gradually down until the system is not be able to declutch and the clutch pedal becomes soft. Always after bled the system, the problem come back after 3 or 4 days driving but during this time I can feel how every day the declutch point is more down that the day before. The system works specially bad after drive a while, when is hot. I mean, after drive 40 min in a traffic jam is nearly to impossible to change the gears, the next day I can to drive for 30 min... and finally I can drive only 10 min, really I don't know where is the limit because always I have tried to stop as soon as I could after feel that. In any case have been impossible not to force the system. Also with every new purge, change the gears have been more hard, I think that is due to force transmission.

For me looks like a leak in the master or slave cylinder and some air goes inside which expands when is hot. My mechanic thinks more that are the clutch plates, that with the hot, the metal becomes weak and is not be able to declutch.


Before to pay more labour, I want to know your diagnosis and if anyone has something similar happened.


Thanks so much.
Hello,

I have changed mine last week ; B&B components and Tazu as master.
I think ,you get a tiny leak somewhere.

With the Tazu ,you have to tighten up correctly the copper pipe on the union
joint .

Then bleeding allows you to get a good biting point at 5/6 cm from floor.

Mike
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Old 16th September 2014, 09:19   #3
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Originally Posted by FrenchMike View Post
Hello,

I have changed mine last week ; B&B components and Tazu as master.
I think ,you get a tiny leak somewhere.

With the Tazu ,you have to tighten up correctly the copper pipe on the union
joint .

Then bleeding allows you to get a good biting point at 5/6 cm from floor.

Mike
Thanks Mike,
I have checked all the joins visible without open the gear box and I haven't seen any liquid remainder. If there are any leak, probably it is in the slave cylinder.

About the clutch plates: Has anyone mounted a National kit? Has anyone had problems with it?
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Old 16th September 2014, 09:51   #4
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Originally Posted by pillao75 View Post
Thanks Mike,
I have checked all the joins visible without open the gear box and I haven't seen any liquid remainder. If there are any leak, probably it is in the slave cylinder.

About the clutch plates: Has anyone mounted a National kit? Has anyone had problems with it?
Not a prob with the mecanism IMO ;
The worst case of course,could be a leaky slave but you can get a micro air
leak somewhere...
please tighten up your joints first.

Has the fluid level changed ?

Mike
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Old 16th September 2014, 16:06   #5
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Not a prob with the mecanism IMO ;
The worst case of course,could be a leaky slave but you can get a micro air
leak somewhere...
please tighten up your joints first.

Has the fluid level changed ?

Mike

I think, the fluid level changes. I am not 100% sure, because all times the garage was which purged the system. But the system had air inside every time. In any case looks like a leak, and I have checked all the accessible junctions.
So I'll bring the car back to the garage, and that they check the car for the fourth time... and pay the ****** expensive labour if they must open the gear box.
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Old 16th September 2014, 18:46   #6
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Originally Posted by pillao75 View Post
I think, the fluid level changes. I am not 100% sure, because all times the garage was which purged the system. But the system had air inside every time. In any case looks like a leak, and I have checked all the accessible junctions.
So I'll bring the car back to the garage, and that they check the car for the fourth time... and pay the ****** expensive labour if they must open the gear box.
If you can change gears easily ,engine stopped,then it's a clutch issue .

(Not enough displacement of pressure plate )
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Old 16th September 2014, 20:22   #7
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If you can change gears easily ,engine stopped,then it's a clutch issue .

(Not enough displacement of pressure plate )

Thanks again for your answer Mike,

I can change gears easily with the engine stopped but I am not too sure that is an clutch fault, even I can change gears with the engine stopped without push the pedal.
Every day I make the same journey, around 40 min with very dense traffic in the morning and the same in the afternoon. Clearly the clutch works worse after driving a while and even worse in the evening, to the extent that it is impossible. This makes me think the problem is the clutch, which pressure plate crystallizes with the heat until the slave cylinder displacement is not enough to disengage (I can´t change gears because the biting point is on the floor).
What makes me think it is a leakage problem is that it is a progressive problem, each of the four times I have purged the hydraulic system, I can easily change gears during the first days. In these days I feel how the biting point moves slowly to the floor and every day is closer to the floor that the previous day. After 4 or 5 days the problems are compounded until it is impossible to change. If it was a clutch problem I think it should keep running bad even after you have refilled the system. Right now I have the car stopped. I know I can drive 15 or 20 minutes but after that it will be impossible to change gear.

On the one hand the problem is aggravated by the heat, moreover when the system is purged works well.
My thinking is that air enters and when is hot it expands, moving the hydraulic fluid out of the system, but I can not believe the heat is able to move enough liquid to feel so big difference.

Tomorrow I have an appointment at the garage, will open the gearbox to see if there are hydraulic fluid.
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Old 17th September 2014, 06:46   #8
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Thanks again for your answer Mike,

I can change gears easily with the engine stopped but I am not too sure that is an clutch fault, even I can change gears with the engine stopped without push the pedal.
Every day I make the same journey, around 40 min with very dense traffic in the morning and the same in the afternoon. Clearly the clutch works worse after driving a while and even worse in the evening, to the extent that it is impossible. This makes me think the problem is the clutch, which pressure plate crystallizes with the heat until the slave cylinder displacement is not enough to disengage (I can´t change gears because the biting point is on the floor).
What makes me think it is a leakage problem is that it is a progressive problem, each of the four times I have purged the hydraulic system, I can easily change gears during the first days. In these days I feel how the biting point moves slowly to the floor and every day is closer to the floor that the previous day. After 4 or 5 days the problems are compounded until it is impossible to change. If it was a clutch problem I think it should keep running bad even after you have refilled the system. Right now I have the car stopped. I know I can drive 15 or 20 minutes but after that it will be impossible to change gear.

On the one hand the problem is aggravated by the heat, moreover when the system is purged works well.
My thinking is that air enters and when is hot it expands, moving the hydraulic fluid out of the system, but I can not believe the heat is able to move enough liquid to feel so big difference.

Tomorrow I have an appointment at the garage, will open the gearbox to see if there are hydraulic fluid.
Forget the gearbox ,if the biting point is different from hot versus cold ,it's an
hydraulic problem

And if no fluid leak, you get air in the circuit but you have to find from where ...
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