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Old 18th May 2019, 19:16   #10331
madeupname
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Rover 75 Connie Mk2 1.8 (Mo), 75 Connie SE 2.0 CDTi (Kim)

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Drove Kim to pub lunch with the Trikeys. Great day out, fantastic food and picked up some invaluable advice
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This vehicle was the 99,307th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381
This vehicle was the 5,377th 75 1.8 Connoisseur to be made out of 6,033
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Old 19th May 2019, 18:17   #10332
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Changed over the standard grey dash and steering wheel, not to everyone's taste but I'm pleased with it.

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Old 19th May 2019, 18:23   #10333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxi_crawf View Post
Changed over the standard grey dash and steering wheel, not to everyone's taste but I'm pleased with it.
Where did you get that green trim?
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Old 19th May 2019, 18:35   #10334
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Quote:
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Where did you get that green trim?
It was originally in the Le mans ZT of Ken 'Jubby' in here, he sold it on and the next owner sold on some of the parts here, I'd seen it in Ken's car (not knowing when I bought it that it had been his) It's a PPD walnut dash so a better fit, and was professionally painted along with the wood/leather wheel, not to everyones taste maybe but not OTT, I'm quite pleased with it to be honest, I'm part way through fitting cruise control as well.

Last edited by maxi_crawf; 19th May 2019 at 19:15.. Reason: spelling
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Old 19th May 2019, 18:51   #10335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxi_crawf View Post
It was originally in the Le mans ZT of Ken 'Jubby' in here, he sold it on and the next owner sold on some of the parts here, I'd seen it in Kens car (not knowing when I bought it that it had been his) It's a PPD walnut dash so a better fit, and was professionally painted along with the wood/leather wheel, not to everyones taste maybe but not OTT, I'm quite pleased with it to be honest, I'm part way through fitting cruise control as well.
That is a beautiful shade of green. I have a Le Mans ZT with a dull as ditchwater fascia... yours is pure class! Nice one.
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Old 19th May 2019, 20:46   #10336
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today i tightened the in tank fuel filter due to a non starter..
what a palarva!!!, first the seat, wow it was a right royal pain to remove, perhaps a longer bar needed next time to help with the leverage?..


getting the filter loosened and removed was a doddle!!, tightened the two halves back to full tightness easy, but my oh my trying to get the sucker back down to tighten that metal ring thingy what a mare, so plenty of searching on here and i realised that the black rubber sealing ring goes inside the other sealing ring and not on the top, and with a bit of lube and a good weighty push managed to tighten the metal ring and hey presto she fired straight up!....


only thing is now i gotta do the whole thing again next week when the plastic clip thing to stop it coming loose arrives from mr postman.
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Old 19th May 2019, 21:35   #10337
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Thumbs up Fuel Filter refitting...

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Originally Posted by mirage110 View Post
today i tightened the in tank fuel filter due to a non starter..
what a palarva!!!, first the seat, wow it was a right royal pain to remove, perhaps a longer bar needed next time to help with the leverage?..


getting the filter loosened and removed was a doddle!!, tightened the two halves back to full tightness easy, but my oh my trying to get the sucker back down to tighten that metal ring thingy what a mare, so plenty of searching on here and i realised that the black rubber sealing ring goes inside the other sealing ring and not on the top, and with a bit of lube and a good weighty push managed to tighten the metal ring and hey presto she fired straight up!....


only thing is now i gotta do the whole thing again next week when the plastic clip thing to stop it coming loose arrives from mr postman.
Posted for the benefit of folks searching for "how to" filter refitting.

When replacing the in-tank Fuel Filter, ALWAYS slide the large black seal off the filter body and position it in the Fuel tank around the aperture location. Look at the design of the filter to see which of the slots in the seal's circumference locate in the aperture. Yes, then when fitted a tad of Vaseline spread around the inner surface of the seal will enable the Filter Assembly to slide down and make refitting the ring retainer that much easier.

The first time I did this job I found it impossible to refit the assembly. Took quite a while to understand that the big seal around the neck of the filter will never slot into the tank's aperture location. The big seal needs to be put into the aperture first.

Here the assembly will never fit into its location unless a big 'ammer is deployed Clarkson style...



In the above image, the previous owner of my now daily driver planned to have the scrap man take his car away for little money. He had lots of fuel in the tank and removed the filter assembly to syphon out and save the fuel. He told me he simly could not replace the assembly. The big seal was around the underside of the top lip.

Note the seal has been removed from under the top LIP of the filter assembly in this image...



Fitted in no time.
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Old 23rd May 2019, 13:14   #10338
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Thumbs up Oil change time.

Not today but yesterday, after a seven mile shopping trip, I drained the hot engine Oil and filled the engine up to the MAX mark with Valvoline 10-40 S-S. I actually allowed the engine to drain for over an hour ( usually overnight best ) to allow all the oil to drain down and out. Even so, although the MG6 Engine in the car now has only 30,000 miles on it, the new oil soon became dark from the contaminants remaining in the engine even after draining for over an hour.

Next change I will use 4+ litres Diesel Fuel in the engine as a thorough flushing agent for a very few gentle miles to get any remaining contaminants out with the hot drain. That way the new oil will still be clear some hundred or so miles later, not discoloured immediately.

Delighted to see a dry upper engine and no sign of anything to worry about when removing the Oil Filler Cap and looking inside. See images attached. Need to reset the OIL inspection check to 15,000 when I can locate my BMW OBD II reset device.

The old oil is only 6,200 miles old and looks in fine shape. However, I want my engines and their Turbochargers to last longer and a key to that is good oil and regular changes. Indeed I usually change renew the Engine Oil in all my own and family cars at half the recommended mileage intervals. Those manufacturer recommended intervals are for newer cars which get a lot of regular use soon after purchase and clock up the miles more quickly than when they are much older, like all our UK built MGs and Rovers are now.

Finally with too many cars in the family to maintain, correct labelling is essential. Was a time when my memory could cope but, I now have to respect my two surviving memory brain cells. All the rest long since burned out. I can clearly remember what I did back in the 1960s etc, don't ask me what I did this morning. I've forgotten. Oh I remember now, had a nice walk in the morning sunshine to the Polling Station. See I can still align those two remaining brain memory cells...
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Old 23rd May 2019, 13:36   #10339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGJohn View Post
Not today but yesterday, after a seven mile shopping trip, I drained the hot engine Oil and filled the engine up to the MAX mark with Valvoline 10-40 S-S. I actually allowed the engine to drain for over an hour ( usually overnight best ) to allow all the oil to drain down and out. Even so, although the MG6 Engine in the car now has only 30,000 miles on it, the new oil soon became dark from the contaminants remaining in the engine even after draining for over an hour.



Next change I will use 4+ litres Diesel Fuel in the engine as a thorough flushing agent for a very few gentle miles to get any remaining contaminants out with the hot drain. That way the new oil will still be clear some hundred or so miles later, not discoloured immediately.



Delighted to see a dry upper engine and no sign of anything to worry about when removing the Oil Filler Cap and looking inside. See images attached. Need to reset the OIL inspection check to 15,000 when I can locate my BMW OBD II reset device.



The old oil is only 6,200 miles old and looks in fine shape. However, I want my engines and their Turbochargers to last longer and a key to that is good oil and regular changes. Indeed I usually change renew the Engine Oil in all my own and family cars at half the recommended mileage intervals. Those manufacturer recommended intervals are for newer cars which get a lot of regular use soon after purchase and clock up the miles more quickly than when they are much older, like all our UK built MGs and Rovers are now.



Finally with too many cars in the family to maintain, correct labelling is essential. Was a time when my memory could cope but, I now have to respect my two surviving memory brain cells. All the rest long since burned out. I can clearly remember what I did back in the 1960s etc, don't ask me what I did this morning. I've forgotten. Oh I remember now, had a nice walk in the morning sunshine to the Polling Station. See I can still align those two remaining brain memory cells...
4litres is surely nearly full capacity. Even with lubricity of diesel is that not going to be too thin, possibly even igniting in the cylinder? I would be fearful of running for 10 minutes let alone driving?

I used to drain my oil, then add a litre of diesel to the cheapest oil I could get changing the filter at the same time. Drive for 10 miles to my parents and 10 miles back. This allowed the oil to settle again, before going back 10 miles home to change properly with a filter. Doing this procedure twice over a year saw my oil remain relatively clear between 6000 mile services for the remaining two years of owning the car.

I only did this on one car as the 2.99 gallon oil disappeared, soon after I stopped working at the motor spares store.

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Old 23rd May 2019, 13:48   #10340
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My 75 KV6 joined my collection 5 months ago and its oil change was due. Drained the oil and added some fresh 10w40 full synthetic (Mobile). But then, when pooring the old oil from the catch pan into a container I found the crush washer. Apparently I dropped it into there after refitting the drain plug. So I had to start over again, this time making sure not to lose the washer .


The engine is a lot quieter now as compared to when it ran on the Motul oil the previous owner used.


Changed the gearbox oil also, just to be sure. The drained oil didn't look bad.



Repairs done so far:
- VIS replacement (DMGRS)
- Thermostat replacement, including pipework
- Crank sensor replacement

- Brake lines replacement above/next to the fuel tank
- In-tank-fuel pump replacement
- LSM replacement


None of these repairs came as a surprise as the car came to me for only EUR 600.00.


Next to be done:
Replace the brushes of the radiator fan.
Paint the sills, it was done in the past after welding, but not pretty.
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