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Old 14th September 2020, 21:35   #11
smabious
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post
When tapping a new thread into the hole use thick grease on the tap. Remove and clean it several times.
It will work and the idea is used in the trade for these kind of emergencies and in mechanical engineering too.

If you're paranoid about it then poke a piece of lint free cloth into the hole and hook it out after you have finished.

PS. You can also hold a vacuum cleaner pipe near the hole and keep sucking air and any particles of metal out as you are doing the tapping.

You guys, stop trying to make work for yourselves.---Lol.

Good tips thanks. Once I get the plug out I am going to re tap with greese as per your tips. Also I will be flushing with new transmission fluid and will fit with a magnetic plug too.


Recommendations state tap the next size up. I assume the drain plug is the same size of the filler plug which is M18 x 1.5. Tapping kits I see jump from M18 to M20 so I guess I would have to tap to M20 as no M19?
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Old 14th September 2020, 21:46   #12
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I prefer these to helicoils, far easier to work with.

https://www.timesert.com/html/catalog.pdf
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Old 14th September 2020, 22:48   #13
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I prefer these to helicoils, far easier to work with.

https://www.timesert.com/html/catalog.pdf
A great idea but not necessary in this case as there's enough metal to take a new thread.

Helicoils are the answer where there is a shortage of metal and it would be impossible to form a new thread.

When fitting the new plug gentle force is all that's required to tighten it.

A small drop of thread lock or a small hole drilled through the head of the plug to fit a retaining wire. ( As per critical bolts in car or motor bike racing. ) There are many easy answers to put right stripped out threads. The clever bit is using the solution that solves your personal problem.--
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Old 15th September 2020, 06:19   #14
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I prefer these to helicoils, far easier to work with.

https://www.timesert.com/html/catalog.pdf
http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html I think this is the same company


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Old 15th September 2020, 06:42   #15
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Originally Posted by smabious View Post
Grip in the plug head is good (not rounded at the moment). The plug turns freely until it bites on undoing (anticlockwise) then goes really really tight. Obviously threads are damaged. It wont tighten up at all so the transmission fluid is happily escaping for freedom. I'll get to have another look later and will keep trying to encourage it to come out.

Some mention removing the sump? This is the gearbox drain plug not the engine oil plug so not sure if I'm missing something, however someone did mention removing the gearbox .

As Trikey says you could use a screwdriver to get behind the plug as you turn it. I have a set of thin straight jawed mole wrenches and a small pair of those could grip the plug and then you can turn and pull evenly at the same time which might help.
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Old 15th September 2020, 09:13   #16
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Timesert seem to have one disadvantage if you are rethreading in situ, more swarf around. Rethreading with a tap traps most of the surplus material in the flutes (greased).

For perfection you could consider pouring (or pumping) oil into the filler and allowing it to run out the drain to wash out the swarf.
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Old 18th September 2020, 19:00   #17
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Well I finally got the drain plug out and what a mess! I used a small pry bar to get behind and even out the plug then undo.

The plug looks OK but the threads are well and truly gone in the gearbox. I have cleaned up and removed all debris that I can see.

The drain plug (and filler) are both M18 x 1.5 so using my M18 tap will be a waste of time. I cannot see any M19 tap kits so will go with M20 x1.5 and use cutting paste. The thread depth is fairly shallow (8-10mm) compared to the filler, so not much to tap.

Winds me up how it can get to this state - I wish I'd changed the oil myself originally rather than let the mechanic do it whilst he was doing other work on my car. Teaches me a lesson..








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