|
||
|
19th February 2021, 11:06 | #1 |
Avid contributor
MG ZT 160 V6 Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 127
Thanks: 1
Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts
|
Changing KV6 head gaskets. Advice on skimming and head bolts etc
Got the engine out my ZT to replace cambelts and clutch etc.
I want to change the head gaskets while its out. Is there anything particular I need to know about with the KV6? Such as different thickness gaskets etc. Do KV6 heads need skimming when changing the head gaskets, and can the head bolts be re-used? |
19th February 2021, 12:27 | #2 |
Precise
Rover 75 Tourer 2.5KV6 Connoisseur SE Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Fleet
Posts: 2,936
Thanks: 630
Thanked 617 Times in 480 Posts
|
Why do you want to change the head gaskets?
Do you have a problem? |
19th February 2021, 12:41 | #3 |
same car since 2005
2001 Rover 75 2.0 v6 Connoisseur Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ellesmere Port , Cheshire
Posts: 3,810
Thanks: 379
Thanked 549 Times in 466 Posts
|
As above , why do you want to change them ? They are not known to suffer problems on the KV6 so unless you are doing other head work like valves or valve stem oil seals i would leave them alone .
If you are suffering oil smoke on startup then it is worth renewing the valve stem oil seals whilst you have the engine out .At just over 100k miles my seals were rock hard and not sealing much at all The heads do not necessarily need skimming unless a straight-edge check reveals them to be warped ; this is unlikely . Mine were fine After the gaskets are removed however you are likely to be faced with a very dirty face which will take some cleaning . I used a piece of 4x2 timber which had been machined flat , wrapped in a sheet of fine grade wet and dry paper lubricated with soapy water , to polish up the face . Made a very nice job . You can reuse the bolts .
__________________
Who said it was simples ? |
19th February 2021, 22:52 | #4 |
Avid contributor
MG ZT 160 V6 Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 127
Thanks: 1
Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts
|
Basically I don't know if the gaskets are ok or not. Car was bought cheap with problem of coolant rising out of expansion tank.
I found and replaced dead fan, and flushed and bled the cooling system. Seemed to behave itself after this with exception of temp gauge would sit a fraction over half way, and with the cap off the coolant would rise to top within seconds of starting engine. There was a noise at higher revs from belt area so I suspected water pump. So engine is out to change belts and water pump and clutch. Makes sense to change the gaskets. Last edited by ashy90; 19th February 2021 at 22:57.. |
19th February 2021, 22:59 | #5 |
Premium Trader
Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Devon
Posts: 33,711
Thanks: 8,837
Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts
|
Have a look at the liners while everything is off, I have found liners to be more of an issue than head gaskets on the KV6
__________________
Lest we forget..
|
20th February 2021, 09:03 | #6 | ||
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,265
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
|
Quote:
Quote:
From your description I would suspect that Mr. Previous Owner has put K-seal in your engine but can I ask first whether you followed the MGR procedure exactly when refilling and bleeding (notably raising the expansion tank and not running the engine with the bleed screw removed)? When you renew the cambelts make sure that you replace the tensioner and idler pulleys as well. The noise you've heard could well be a sign of bearing wear but you'll find out when you inspect them and spin them by hand. Also, beware of changing the water pump if there is no sign of leakage. More than one owner has found the replacements to fail after a short period of time. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. |
||
20th February 2021, 15:40 | #7 | |
Avid contributor
MG ZT Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Haslemere
Posts: 211
Thanks: 59
Thanked 46 Times in 43 Posts
|
Quote:
__________________
better if i get nick name FOREIGN |
|
21st February 2021, 05:49 | #8 |
This is my second home
75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Johannesburg ZA
Posts: 6,200
Thanks: 1
Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts
|
Remove all liners and check carefully for cracks in the block.
__________________
Worth his V8 in gold |
21st February 2021, 09:28 | #9 |
Avid contributor
MG ZT 160 V6 Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 127
Thanks: 1
Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts
|
That sounds like way more work than I was intending! Pretty sure it hasn't got any cracks. I could leave it running for an hour stationary and it wouldn't overheat etc. I was monitoring the temp via the dash and via obd. Cant remember the figures but when it got to the right temp the fan would kick in and bring it down. |
21st February 2021, 09:33 | #10 | |
Avid contributor
MG ZT 160 V6 Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 127
Thanks: 1
Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts
|
Quote:
Yep followed procedure. With engine running (after new rad and bleeding system) etc) it seemed fine. I had it running several times and kept it running for an hour or so after it had got to temp. Fans would kick in at the right temperature according to OBD and bring the temp down. The only slight oddity was the gauge sat a fraction over half - literally a tiny bit. |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|