BMW 2 Series Sticky Calliper - What do you think? - Page 2

AndrewJames · 25th June 2021, 22:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by xsport

yes the brake spanner is key for this job as eastpete strongly enforced in his brakes service post on here. i have just changed all four of my flexi hoses and was in my mind dreading the outcome of a union that would not unscrew or rupture. my plan was not to attempt anything until i was sure the unions would undo before i started. strict cleaning and wire brushing of the union first followed by a few light taps and finally a liberal dose of plusgas and left for a few days. following marinabrians advise of tightening first they all came undone no problems. however i did make sure a day before i tackled the job that they undid first and just nipped them back up before i tackled the job. pretty straight forward job and very satisfying once done. even though i had the correct brake spanners i still bought myself a russian brake spanner from ebay (still available) cheap looking tool it is but very effective.it gives nearly 100 % wrap around the union (all 5 sides) as it has an adjustable bolt to take up all play and its thicker faces will give no play at all once tightened. if fact i bought 4 different sizes of the spanner which covered all brake nipples sizes and they removed my seized ones at the rear with ease. i dont have a link but well worth looking for on ebay under brake spanners. the unions may well have come undone with the standard brake spanner but i used the belt and braces aproach just in case. ...

Thanks for the advice I will definitely keep it in mind. In fact, I just screenshotted your post to my phones gallery so I can bring it up easily. Not sure what the Russian spanner is but it sounds cool.

xsport · 25th June 2021, 22:30

when i did mine i changed the calipers for a set i had reserviced with new seals and pistons. my worry was that as i work on my own i would not be able to bleed all the air out of the new empty callipers. i used the gravity bleed method and it worked well. once the hose was connected to the calliper first and tightened the rest was easy at the union end. once connected and tightened top up the reservoir connect your bleed pipe/container and slacken the bleedvalve ... and wait. as long as the reservoir is topped up it should bleed itself. mine did as with a friend to help a couple of days later we did a full bleed and did not see any air bubbles escape. kept an eye on the unions and fluid level for a few days after and all was well. well worth doing and gives peace of mind...

xsport · 25th June 2021, 22:33

have a look on ebay for them they are a bronze colour. if you dont find them i will try to search my purchase history for purchase ebay numbers.

xsport · 25th June 2021, 22:44

just been on the bay. sellers name samglover he has a website on there and lists 4 combination spanners for these applications. well worth investing and read some of the reviews.

brake pipe spanner locking type as advertised.do a search if you fancy it.

AndrewJames · 25th June 2021, 23:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by xsport

just been on the bay. sellers name samglover he has a website on there and lists 4 combination spanners for these applications. well worth investing and read some of the reviews.

brake pipe spanner locking type as advertised.do a search if you fancy it.

I've found the spanners. They look quite excellent! As for bleeding, I have a one man bleed kit which I haven't used yet. I'll be working with my mate so if it doesn't work we will do it the old fashioned way.

Tourist · 13th July 2021, 21:07

Thanks everyone for all the really helpful answers. Apologies that I've not been back before now to say thanks, it's a case of life with a full-time job, pandemic and toddler to look after getting in the way!

I've heeded the info given by everyone and have ordered a calliper service kit and two wear sensors which I'll fit tomorrow.

I've rebuilt my MG Maestro callipers in the past and looked up a few videos in YouTube about the BMW ones - turns out it's all exactly the same technology so I think it'll be easy enough to get the job done.

I'm going to take my time and clean all the calliper carriers up (front and back) and also get the replacement sensors fitted so that everything works as it should.

It was interesting to see the post, saying that this is a lack of maintenance, I agree that this sort of thing should be attended to as part of the service schedule, but I think this car is an extreme of age and low mileage, with a bit of neglect thrown in as well - hopefully I can get on top of that and make it a good example of its breed!

I'll let you know how I get on.

Tourist · 14th July 2021, 13:12

Oh No - I've had the calliper off and replaced the piston and seals, also taken the pad carrier off, filed it free of debris and refitted it - the pads definitely move freely. The system is free of air and seems to work effectively, however, it's as if once the brakes are applied, the piston on that side sticks until you manually push it back.

I'm scratching my head! I don't think the pads were sticking before but can't be sure - I tried the old pads in the cleaned carrier and they also still stick now.

What a nightmare!

Tourist · 14th July 2021, 18:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndrewJames

You could always potentially have a bad brake hose too. The other comments are probably a more likely explanation but just thought I'd throw that into the hat.

I'm wondering if this is maybe the issue. On the side that works, you can see the piston move in and out with the brake pedal (if someone else is operating it), however on the sticking side the piston moves forward to operate the brakes and then doesn't move back as much as the working side.

I spent a significant amount of this afternoon strippijg it down and putting it all back together so it's a little frustrating that it still doesn't work. Cars, eh?!

xsport · 14th July 2021, 20:12

how about the pin rubbers inside the calliper. you can change these easily. have you cleaned and lubricated the pins as well ? the rubbers get worn and chewed up after a while. without the pads in the calliper you should be able to pull and push the calliper in and out smoothly without much effort. if all this is good then check your flexi hose is not retaining pressure . you can do this by slackening the bleed nipple after you have pumped the brake pedal. a spurt of fluid would probably identify this as being the culprit. ideal time to renew them anyway ....

Tourist · 14th July 2021, 20:40

Thanks ever so much - I really appreciate the advice. I'll do that check tomorrow and see if that's it.

TBH, if it's not that then I think it could be an issue with the ABS pump, so I hope it is!!

As you say, it's maybe not a bad idea to renew them anyway - everything else will be new or re-conditioned.

I'll report back....

25th June 2021, 22:30	#12
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,639 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	when i did mine i changed the calipers for a set i had reserviced with new seals and pistons. my worry was that as i work on my own i would not be able to bleed all the air out of the new empty callipers. i used the gravity bleed method and it worked well. once the hose was connected to the calliper first and tightened the rest was easy at the union end. once connected and tightened top up the reservoir connect your bleed pipe/container and slacken the bleedvalve ... and wait. as long as the reservoir is topped up it should bleed itself. mine did as with a friend to help a couple of days later we did a full bleed and did not see any air bubbles escape. kept an eye on the unions and fluid level for a few days after and all was well. well worth doing and gives peace of mind...

25th June 2021, 22:33	#13
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,639 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	have a look on ebay for them they are a bronze colour. if you dont find them i will try to search my purchase history for purchase ebay numbers.

25th June 2021, 22:44	#14
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,639 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	just been on the bay. sellers name samglover he has a website on there and lists 4 combination spanners for these applications. well worth investing and read some of the reviews. brake pipe spanner locking type as advertised.do a search if you fancy it.

13th July 2021, 21:07	#16
Tourist Loves to post 2004 Rover 75 Tourer CDTi Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Fulbourn, Cambridge Posts: 455 Thanks: 105 Thanked 123 Times in 101 Posts	Thanks everyone for all the really helpful answers. Apologies that I've not been back before now to say thanks, it's a case of life with a full-time job, pandemic and toddler to look after getting in the way! I've heeded the info given by everyone and have ordered a calliper service kit and two wear sensors which I'll fit tomorrow. I've rebuilt my MG Maestro callipers in the past and looked up a few videos in YouTube about the BMW ones - turns out it's all exactly the same technology so I think it'll be easy enough to get the job done. I'm going to take my time and clean all the calliper carriers up (front and back) and also get the replacement sensors fitted so that everything works as it should. It was interesting to see the post, saying that this is a lack of maintenance, I agree that this sort of thing should be attended to as part of the service schedule, but I think this car is an extreme of age and low mileage, with a bit of neglect thrown in as well - hopefully I can get on top of that and make it a good example of its breed! I'll let you know how I get on.

14th July 2021, 13:12	#17
Tourist Loves to post 2004 Rover 75 Tourer CDTi Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Fulbourn, Cambridge Posts: 455 Thanks: 105 Thanked 123 Times in 101 Posts	Oh No - I've had the calliper off and replaced the piston and seals, also taken the pad carrier off, filed it free of debris and refitted it - the pads definitely move freely. The system is free of air and seems to work effectively, however, it's as if once the brakes are applied, the piston on that side sticks until you manually push it back. I'm scratching my head! I don't think the pads were sticking before but can't be sure - I tried the old pads in the cleaned carrier and they also still stick now. What a nightmare!

14th July 2021, 20:12	#19
xsport Posted a thing or two rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 1,639 Thanks: 358 Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts	how about the pin rubbers inside the calliper. you can change these easily. have you cleaned and lubricated the pins as well ? the rubbers get worn and chewed up after a while. without the pads in the calliper you should be able to pull and push the calliper in and out smoothly without much effort. if all this is good then check your flexi hose is not retaining pressure . you can do this by slackening the bleed nipple after you have pumped the brake pedal. a spurt of fluid would probably identify this as being the culprit. ideal time to renew them anyway ....

14th July 2021, 20:40	#20
Tourist Loves to post 2004 Rover 75 Tourer CDTi Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Fulbourn, Cambridge Posts: 455 Thanks: 105 Thanked 123 Times in 101 Posts	Thanks ever so much - I really appreciate the advice. I'll do that check tomorrow and see if that's it. TBH, if it's not that then I think it could be an issue with the ABS pump, so I hope it is!! As you say, it's maybe not a bad idea to renew them anyway - everything else will be new or re-conditioned. I'll report back....