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3rd August 2021, 21:54 | #21 | |
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4th August 2021, 07:36 | #22 |
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If you do not find another main stop valve and you have work planned, then instal one below those two isolation valves and before the division.
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4th August 2021, 08:32 | #23 | |
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totally agree full bore is the way to go. macafee2 |
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4th August 2021, 08:33 | #24 |
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4th August 2021, 09:34 | #25 |
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But, if the small isolators are not in view that would be unnecessary work; obviously dependant on the amount of room to work.
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4th August 2021, 10:37 | #26 | |
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I want them out. macafee2 |
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4th August 2021, 13:06 | #27 |
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Yes it could well be marked out by the house builder,like boundaries sewerage etc.
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4th August 2021, 16:14 | #28 | |
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5th August 2021, 15:41 | #29 |
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Get rid of the isolating valves, they're not designed for use underground.
Replace them with a good quality stoptap, that is one with a washer, and made from DZR brass. BES do one, part no 7547, they will deliver next day but it will cost. Don't ever use a gate valve for anything, they always fail eventually. Your water meter should have a stop valve built in that will allow you to sort out the plumbing. |
5th August 2021, 16:18 | #30 | |
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I have had experience of gate valves, they seize and then the hand wheel comes off and so I want the isolating valves replaced with stop cocks. macafee2 |
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