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2nd July 2021, 08:50 | #1 |
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Master cylinder gone again in a week?
Hi all, in need of help and advice. Had the Master cylinder replaced a couple of weeks ago by Tom Force in Leominster with a DMRGS model after having two LUK ones fail done by other garages. I'm in Hereford so Tom was the nearest to me who should know what he's doing, however, the first one was no good and he has got a replacement from DMRGS. This has worked for about 80 miles. Went to go out today, could not engage any gear. Engine off, it will.
I've of course tried calling TF, but can't get a reply. Is there anyone in the Hereford area that can help with this? It's causing real grief at the moment with unreliability. I've had a look and taken some photos, but I'm not a mechanic and don't have the knowledge, tools or anything to resolve this once and for all. I'm already getting grumblings from others to get rid which would be a shame. Thanks, Ray
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2nd July 2021, 09:13 | #2 |
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oh that sucks.
I have knowledge of the place you went to and personally wouldn't go back, had to threaten legal action before he would provide remedy. If you spent a lot of money maybe get a more professional garage to check the work for a possible money claim (if they can generate a report for the claim)... In your photo the top of the gearbox looks very moist, maybe its a long shot but check that the bleed nipple photographed is actually closed properly. If you do find it open or loose I can highly recommend a reverse flush as per the thread below. https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...=reverse+bleed
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ZT-T Mk2 Jobs to do: Renew auxiliary drive belt # Replace driver door lock actuator # Refurbish wheels Last edited by Retap; 2nd July 2021 at 09:34.. |
2nd July 2021, 09:27 | #3 |
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Remember if you touch any of the work carried out by TF or anyone else for that fact, they can say you have caused the problem and refuse to correct it, send him an email, facebook him, and keep calling him, say you intend to hire a car until the job is sorted and he will be given the bill.
You may want to contact DMGRS as well and let them know of the failing part twice in a short time, they may do something about it for you instead who knows, but it as to be put right by one or the other.
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2nd July 2021, 09:29 | #4 | |
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Quote:
Good point.
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ZT-T Mk2 Jobs to do: Renew auxiliary drive belt # Replace driver door lock actuator # Refurbish wheels |
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2nd July 2021, 10:52 | #5 |
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Thanks for replies. I have now heard from TF. I am aware that he is not held in the best regard on here. I would normally have Jules take a look, but being a 3.5hr journey away is just not feasible at the moment.
I have taken another look and the new cylinder looks fine dry and OK. The blue pipe end does feel wet underneath but it's been fiddle with so much I wouldn't know if there was something amiss or not. Everything is tight. I have messaged DMGRS for comment. If the master is OK, than could be further down the line, ie the slave cylinder? That is in the bell end though? All of which is really nothing I could do. Is there any way of checking what could be the cause? Car has done 147,000. The previous owner told me: 15/07/2011 91766mls New clutch, hydraulic slave valve, hydraulic master valve replaced. Quote: The AA came to rescue me because the clutch slave valve went whilst I was driving. He towed me to a garage and suggested that whilst they were stripping down the clutch from the gearbox to get at and replace this slave valve, I should also replace the master valve and clutch plate and have the DMF checked. This made sense and I did. There is no documentary evidence of this but I believe it to be true. He reckoned it was 2011.
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2nd July 2021, 12:23 | #6 |
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I've just sent you a PM Ray
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3rd July 2021, 05:49 | #7 |
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I would suspect it is the slave cylinder failed leaking fluid into the gearbox and the new master cylinder has simply run out of fluid due to the leak
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3rd July 2021, 10:35 | #8 |
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Looks like a slave problem now...
Well, to follow on and much reading up on the wretched clutch system it would appear that the problem points to the slave cylinder. If that is the case it would mean that the whole clutch system needs replacing.
So, what is the best recommendation path and parts to take? Looking on DMRGS site then they say: Rover 75 / ZT CDT/CDTi Clutch Kit - Borg & Beck with OEM-Q or LuK Slave - RP1069 & UUB105301 at £169, However, that includes a LuK slave. They get such a drubbing would that really be the best thing? They also have the Land Rover Freelander TD4 OEM-Q Slave Cylinder - UUB000070 at £59.99. Adding all this and considerable labour time will be pricey, but worth it if it works and restores my confidence in it. Having had two LuK master cylinders fail in two years LuK would not seem to be the best part to use? Others have said use a Freelander slave Is there a real consensus of what is the best to use so the problem is done with for the foreseeable future? Thanks, Ray Photo shows new master and seems to be OK
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3rd July 2021, 10:52 | #9 | |
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3rd July 2021, 10:55 | #10 |
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Quote--Having had two LuK master cylinders fail in two years LuK would not seem to be the best part to use? Others have said use a Freelander slave
Is there a real consensus of what is the best to use so the problem is done with for the foreseeable future?
When those two master cylinders failed were you shown the defective parts.--Something not making a lot of sense here. --- |
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