Oil Change Diesel R75 MGZT

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

I have a torque wrench, have changed the filter a number of times over the years, but no I never bother to use the torque wrench for this. I do it by feel, keeping in mind this is plastic and seals against an O ring. It needs to be tight, but not massively tight.

Harry. The O ring is a tight fit in the filter housing, that's what makes it seal. It is NOT compressed by tightening down the cover.

Rather like the O rings in the inter-cooler.

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by Arctic

HI John.
If you look closely you will there is a section in the thread of the filter cap for an hook screwdriver to help remove the O-ring pictures below cheers Arctic

When you screw the cap down on the filter housing the flange on the cap comes in contact with the top of the housing.
It is impossible to crush the filter because if you do you will have already ripped the flange off the cover.

You can only tighten the flange against the housing body.

The flange against the filter body does NOT provide the oil seal. The O ring inside the body does under a pre-set compression.

Tightening of the cap is such that it won't undo when subject to vibration and that is all that is necessary.

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by Vossy

Surely if that were the case we would never need to change an oil filter - ever, there is a reason Royal Mail always fit an extra oil filter to their diesel trucks, it keeps the oil clean and prevents long term problems, it was a practice I adopted when running my wagons also, I would not take a chance on letting a filter get clogged, twice as often is always better than twice as long.
When I drain oil from a diesel I still want to see a glimmer of gold colour and not just jet black, this works for me.
If it has worked for you then its great, just not for me.

Still a perfect how to for anyone.

Colvert is correct - Logically, the more clogged up a filter becomes, the more effective they become and the tinier the particles they catch out of the oil. There comes a time though, when a filter is so effective they let no oil past them at all and the filter bypass opens and lets unfiltered oil past.

So filters do need to be changed, but it is likely marginally better not to change them too frequently, though still within maintenance schedules.

I half remember one model of car had a warning light, which would light when the filter bypass operated, indicating that the oil filter was choked up.

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

It is impossible to crush the filter because if you do you will have already ripped the flange off the cover.

Unfortunately not only possible Jon, but surprisingly easy to crush the filter if you don't locate it correctly. As you say, nothing to do with how much you tighten it though.There is a lip at the base of the housing, and if the filter doesn't fit around it then it will get crushed as you screw the cap down.

That is why you should always place the filter in the housing first to ensure it is properly located around the lip, and not put it into the cap and then try and fit it.











.

[Arctic]

I agree with Mike 100% also clean the pot out
1

2

Anyone notice something about this filter pot.
3

[bl52krz]

Simply put, it has still got any contamination that has been caught by the filter, left in the bottom of the oil filter container. As Artic (Steve) has said, this always needs to be soaked up and removed before a new filter is fitted. If your filter base is like this one, a piece of old towelling to clean the bottom out, and then take it between your fingers and rub fingers together, you may have a shock at any rubbish that has been collected there.

[COLVERT]

[QUOTE=Mike Noc;2859111]Unfortunately not only possible Jon, but surprisingly easy to crush the filter if you don't locate it correctly. As you say, nothing to do with how much you tighten it though.There is a lip at the base of the housing, and if the filter doesn't fit around it then it will get crushed as you screw the cap down.

That is why you should always place the filter in the housing first to ensure it is properly located around the lip, and not put it into the cap and then try and fit it.

Yes, that's true for folk who don't know what they are doing.

Same goes for other tricky bits on the car that DIY'ers can get wrong.---( Garages love them when they charge to put right the c-ck ups. )





PS.. Have you MIKE ever ruined a filter ???--No, nor have I.

Clever clogs aren't we.---











.

[Mike Noc]

Ha ha no I haven't Jon, but I took one out that someone else had.

[Typhoon190]

[QUOTE=COLVERT;2859188]

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Unfortunately not only possible Jon, but surprisingly easy to crush the filter if you don't locate it correctly. As you say, nothing to do with how much you tighten it though.There is a lip at the base of the housing, and if the filter doesn't fit around it then it will get crushed as you screw the cap down.

That is why you should always place the filter in the housing first to ensure it is properly located around the lip, and not put it into the cap and then try and fit it.

Yes, that's true for folk who don't know what they are doing.

Same goes for other tricky bits on the car that DIY'ers can get wrong.---( Garages love them when they charge to put right the c-ck ups. )





PS.. Have you MIKE ever ruined a filter ???--No, nor have I.

Clever clogs aren't we.---











.

Thanks all. I don't know my way around the diesel engine yet. I got my first ZT in 2007 but have always had a 2.5 V6.

I did however clean the housing thoroughly, and then fit the filter first. Makes a change me getting something right.

[buchanan]

I do what majority of garages do, i use a vacuum pump to suck the oul from the sump via the dipstick tube takes very little time.