Something wrong on idle after huge service... - Page 3

SD1too · 7th February 2015, 08:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordan Apex

Looks like the coolant cap on ring has failed ...

Another possibility Jeremy is that you are accidentally overfilling your expansion tank. If you remove the cap and peer inside you should be able to see a tab marked 'MAX' which is at a lower position than you might expect. If you can't see it, then your coolant level is too high.

Yet another possibility, and a very likely one, is that your radiator fan's low speed has failed. Have you checked it by pressing the windscreen demist button on the AC control panel with a cold engine and listening at the radiator grille?

I don't think that this is linked to your original problem.

Simon

VMax1000 · 7th February 2015, 08:54

Maybe a long shot but did they use the right plugs with the correct heat range when they were replaced?

220316 · 11th February 2015, 06:08

Simon:
The coolant is well above that 'Max' tab.
Before I took the car in I was topping it up daily to reach the 'Max' tab. However when I checked it once I had the car back it was probably 3/4 full.
Perhaps I have been reading it wrong, but I referred to the user manual and it made sense, however when the level reached 'Max' it seemed like there was still very little fluid in the bottle.
So that being said I guess the bottle is over filled. Can this cause any harm other than a bit of a splutter from time to time?

--

The plugs included cost an absolute fortune compared to what I'm used to. They were billed at $24.95 AUD each.

kaiser · 11th February 2015, 06:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by AAY441

Simon:
The .................. Can this cause any harm other than a bit of a splutter from time to time?

--

No:

.................

SD1too · 11th February 2015, 16:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by AAY441

The coolant is well above that 'Max' tab.

Well it shouldn't be. This might be why the engine is ejecting coolant through the expansion tank cap. My advice is to lower the level to the 'max' tab.

Quote:

... when the level reached 'Max' it seemed like there was still very little fluid in the bottle.

That's how the system was designed to operate.

Quote:

The plugs included cost an absolute fortune compared to what I'm used to. They were billed at $24.95 AUD each.

Garages will always charge you a higher price for parts they supply, compared with what you would pay if you bought them yourself. That's why so many people do their own car maintenance!

Simon

versus · 11th February 2015, 18:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by AAY441

Simon:

So that being said I guess the bottle is over filled. Can this cause any harm other than a bit of a splutter from time to time?

I think it's not good for hoses and for old hoses.

220316 · 27th March 2015, 12:30

Just an update guys...

I took the car back to the mechanics that did all of the work on it (that seems to have cause the misfire) as there had been no improvement after running injector cleaning through the system.

They had the car for 6 days (weekend included) and claimed they couldn't feel/hear/notice the misfire at all... So they basically said they couldn't fault it and that I would have to continue on my merry way until it got worse, then bring it back.
Well guess what... I hopped in, started her up and what did she do? MISFIRED! I pulled them out of the shop and got one of them to stand at the rear (to hear it) and the other to sit in the drivers seat (to feel it) and they admitted that it was actually happening.
They claimed it hadn't done it once since they had it (surely lies...) and that again, since it wasn't happening all of the time they would find it nearly impossible to fault it and that it would have to be happening a lot before they would bother looking into it again.

Unhappy with this response I took it to the mechanic that services my other car. We ran a gas analyzer which gave high readings every time a misfire occurred. He said the reading should be an Air to Fuel ratio of 14.7 which it was at times, but as it misfired it would jump upto 15.5+.
We also ran a battery test in the off chance the amperage was low and that the engine was sensitive to this, thus causing a misfire when the battery isn't fulled charged. Battery was 100% fine.
Conclusion by this mechanic was as most of you suggested, a vacuum or air leak.

So since that, I rang up the other shop (where all the work had been done) and was a little more pushy. They've got the car now and have had it for 3 full days. No phone call as of yet so I'm just sitting tight.

220316 · 1st April 2015, 06:56

Alrighty.

8 days later I have my MG back.

I was asked to pay $70 for an engine flush (to clean out built-up oil from where ever it was built up, he seemed to mention the lifters quite a lot).
The $70 also included new oil.
Not too fussed about paying that seeing as it's consumables and the mechanic was "99%" sure it had solved the problem.

A little excited to finally have everything sorted and ready to drive away and never return, I walked out to the car and started her up.
**** me side-ways she's still misfiring.

I let him know again, but I had just been dropped off so I needed to drive the car regardless. I'll be bringing it back Tuesday (public holidays for Easter makes it a little more annoying).

kaiser · 1st April 2015, 07:20

I think this flush and oil change etc has nothing to do with the problem.

The reasons for hesitation misfire would be a failure to fire and burn correctly.
this can be caused by:
1. Problem with fuel supply
a pump
b filter
c injector
e mixture
2. Problem with ignition
a sensor(s)
b plugs/leads
d mechanical problem, low compression
e water
3 Timing
a cam timing
b ignition timing

This is off the top of the head, there will surely be more options I have not thought of.

220316 · 1st April 2015, 07:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaiser

I think this flush and oil change etc has nothing to do with the problem.

The reasons for hesitation misfire would be a failure to fire and burn correctly.
this can be caused by:
1. Problem with fuel supply
a pump
b filter
c injector
e mixture
2. Problem with ignition
a sensor(s)
b plugs/leads
d mechanical problem, low compression
e water
3 Timing
a cam timing
b ignition timing

This is off the top of the head, there will surely be more options I have not thought of.

Keep in mind it only happens when starting from cold and clears up after a few minutes.
Also noticeable when A/C is on, even after running for an hour.

Does this change your opinion at all?
I'm considering taking up a case with consumer affairs but it's not something I really want to be forced to do...

7th February 2015, 08:54	#22
VMax1000 Passed Away MG ZT260 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Swindon Posts: 2,805 Thanks: 62 Thanked 325 Times in 249 Posts	Maybe a long shot but did they use the right plugs with the correct heat range when they were replaced?

11th February 2015, 06:08	#23
220316 Regular poster Join Date: Jan 2015 Posts: 47 Thanks: 11 Thanked 8 Times in 3 Posts	Simon: The coolant is well above that 'Max' tab. Before I took the car in I was topping it up daily to reach the 'Max' tab. However when I checked it once I had the car back it was probably 3/4 full. Perhaps I have been reading it wrong, but I referred to the user manual and it made sense, however when the level reached 'Max' it seemed like there was still very little fluid in the bottle. So that being said I guess the bottle is over filled. Can this cause any harm other than a bit of a splutter from time to time? -- The plugs included cost an absolute fortune compared to what I'm used to. They were billed at $24.95 AUD each.

27th March 2015, 12:30	#27
220316 Regular poster Join Date: Jan 2015 Posts: 47 Thanks: 11 Thanked 8 Times in 3 Posts	Just an update guys... I took the car back to the mechanics that did all of the work on it (that seems to have cause the misfire) as there had been no improvement after running injector cleaning through the system. They had the car for 6 days (weekend included) and claimed they couldn't feel/hear/notice the misfire at all... So they basically said they couldn't fault it and that I would have to continue on my merry way until it got worse, then bring it back. Well guess what... I hopped in, started her up and what did she do? MISFIRED! I pulled them out of the shop and got one of them to stand at the rear (to hear it) and the other to sit in the drivers seat (to feel it) and they admitted that it was actually happening. They claimed it hadn't done it once since they had it (surely lies...) and that again, since it wasn't happening all of the time they would find it nearly impossible to fault it and that it would have to be happening a lot before they would bother looking into it again. Unhappy with this response I took it to the mechanic that services my other car. We ran a gas analyzer which gave high readings every time a misfire occurred. He said the reading should be an Air to Fuel ratio of 14.7 which it was at times, but as it misfired it would jump upto 15.5+. We also ran a battery test in the off chance the amperage was low and that the engine was sensitive to this, thus causing a misfire when the battery isn't fulled charged. Battery was 100% fine. Conclusion by this mechanic was as most of you suggested, a vacuum or air leak. So since that, I rang up the other shop (where all the work had been done) and was a little more pushy. They've got the car now and have had it for 3 full days. No phone call as of yet so I'm just sitting tight.

1st April 2015, 06:56	#28
220316 Regular poster Join Date: Jan 2015 Posts: 47 Thanks: 11 Thanked 8 Times in 3 Posts	Alrighty. 8 days later I have my MG back. I was asked to pay $70 for an engine flush (to clean out built-up oil from where ever it was built up, he seemed to mention the lifters quite a lot). The $70 also included new oil. Not too fussed about paying that seeing as it's consumables and the mechanic was "99%" sure it had solved the problem. A little excited to finally have everything sorted and ready to drive away and never return, I walked out to the car and started her up. **** me side-ways she's still misfiring. I let him know again, but I had just been dropped off so I needed to drive the car regardless. I'll be bringing it back Tuesday (public holidays for Easter makes it a little more annoying).

1st April 2015, 07:20	#29
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	I think this flush and oil change etc has nothing to do with the problem. The reasons for hesitation misfire would be a failure to fire and burn correctly. this can be caused by: 1. Problem with fuel supply a pump b filter c injector e mixture 2. Problem with ignition a sensor(s) b plugs/leads d mechanical problem, low compression e water 3 Timing a cam timing b ignition timing This is off the top of the head, there will surely be more options I have not thought of.