handbrake adjustment

skippy1 · 9th May 2010, 08:33

Hi all was wondering if anybody had any info on adjusting handbrake, been told you need a special tool ifso where can i get one

sworks · 9th May 2010, 08:51

no special tools needed, with the rear wheels removed (jacked up with axle stands etc) remove the rubber grommits on the face of the brake disk. Using a torch whilst turning the disk you will see the adjustment 'toothed' wheel

chunkybray · 9th May 2010, 10:32

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/down...ile=tid029.pdf

This might help.

skippy1 · 9th May 2010, 17:40

thanxs for info

looks easy enough

Tootall · 9th May 2010, 17:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by skippy1

thanxs for info

looks easy enough

Famous last words

not as easy as it seems.

chrislloydie · 9th May 2010, 17:52

A fellow member helped to do mine on Friday evening. Took about 45 mins start to finish. It was more straight forward than I anticipated and I'd be confident of tackling the job on my own next time.

Just gotta be careful with how close you adjust the shoes as my disc would spin freely at one point but have more resistance at another point. Warped discs maybe?

moonstoneboy · 9th May 2010, 17:59

The fun is finding the adjuster through the disc. Well worth the effort though - it is a superb handbrake when adjusted correctly, absolutely lousy when it is not

FROGGY · 10th May 2010, 06:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by moonstoneboy

The fun is finding the adjuster through the disc. Well worth the effort though - it is a superb handbrake when adjusted correctly, absolutely lousy when it is not

Mine's absolutely lousy even when it is adjusted correctly!
Failed its CT (MOT) on handbrake efficiency at 14%, so did the full stripdown, cleanout, adjust etc., and it passed, but efficiency was only 18%.
The rear discs were new a year ago, the handbrake shoes the same, but 18% is the best I can get.

Mick

MikeJohn · 10th May 2010, 08:13

Likewise mine is all new bits (and it was also helpful to look at Chris's to try and compare another one), but it is still not brilliant.

It seems if I adjust in the drum tight enough it drags too much, but if there is no drag at all in the drum there is not enough adjustment left at the handbrake end.

Maybe a drive with it (partly) on to remove the high spots from the shoes, then strip clkean and re-adjust?

Also the how-to (and many posts) refer to having no more than 25mm of thread showing at the handbrake end - does nayone know why as I cannot get near that on mine - and Chris's originally was far worse - it is now better but still more than 25mm.

Thanks

Mike

Simon.h · 10th May 2010, 16:50

Hi, I adjustment my handbrake about 8 weeks ago as per rave cd, but to get handbrake to work on 3-4 clicks i ended up with 35-40 of thread through the nut at the handbrake. Now the handbrake needs about 8+ clicks to hold car again.
The cables are stretched to the limit at production and the problem is the handbrake cables have what they call 'top hats' these act as stoppers (on the drum end) but these top hats move down the cables giving the stretched cable affect!! and they can-not be move back into place, so they have to be replaced, no matter how much adjustment you make the handbrake will not work properly.

So MikeJohn it looks like you need new cables like me, and i understand its a pig of a job to do.

9th May 2010, 08:33	#1
skippy1 Newbie Rover 75 saloon Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Nuneaton Posts: 22 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	handbrake adjustment Hi all was wondering if anybody had any info on adjusting handbrake, been told you need a special tool ifso where can i get one

9th May 2010, 08:51	#2
sworks Been absent for a while… Rover 75 Tourer, Classic mini Cooper S, Abarth 595 competizione, MG TF and a Hyundai Tucson PHEV Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Cumbria Posts: 13,065 Thanks: 1,033 Thanked 1,686 Times in 1,040 Posts	no special tools needed, with the rear wheels removed (jacked up with axle stands etc) remove the rubber grommits on the face of the brake disk. Using a torch whilst turning the disk you will see the adjustment 'toothed' wheel __________________ ................................................. 'Marmite' Possibly one of the most famous 75 tourers produced! left the production line as the last of only Three Rover 75 tourers produced in Trophy Yellow. 48 hours later Longbridge closed. The last sold ordered 75 Tourer. Paid for by the Phoenix Four and handed over by John Towers to the Warwickshire Northampton Air ambulance service as a Rapid Response vehicle

9th May 2010, 17:52	#6
chrislloydie Posted a thing or two MG ZT 135 CDTI+ Auto Royal Blue with Synergy 2. 75 Tourer cdti club Se Auto, Royal Blue, synergy 2 Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Bancroft, Milton Keynes Posts: 1,906 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	A fellow member helped to do mine on Friday evening. Took about 45 mins start to finish. It was more straight forward than I anticipated and I'd be confident of tackling the job on my own next time. Just gotta be careful with how close you adjust the shoes as my disc would spin freely at one point but have more resistance at another point. Warped discs maybe? __________________ Chris

9th May 2010, 17:59	#7
moonstoneboy Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Connoisseur SE CDT Tourer - naturally in Moonstone Green Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Surrey - near Gatwick Airport Posts: 1,316 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	The fun is finding the adjuster through the disc. Well worth the effort though - it is a superb handbrake when adjusted correctly, absolutely lousy when it is not __________________ Paul Unfortunately for you lot, we are now stuck behind a broken train. We'll be here for quite a while but I don't care, I'm now on overtime. London tube train announcement

10th May 2010, 16:50	#10
Simon.h This is my second home Previously owned- MG ZT V6 160 Y plate Lpg, MG ZT 190 2003 In Rare Celestial Factory Ordered Lpg MG Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Calne Posts: 4,531 Thanks: 8 Thanked 116 Times in 108 Posts	Hi, I adjustment my handbrake about 8 weeks ago as per rave cd, but to get handbrake to work on 3-4 clicks i ended up with 35-40 of thread through the nut at the handbrake. Now the handbrake needs about 8+ clicks to hold car again. The cables are stretched to the limit at production and the problem is the handbrake cables have what they call 'top hats' these act as stoppers (on the drum end) but these top hats move down the cables giving the stretched cable affect!! and they can-not be move back into place, so they have to be replaced, no matter how much adjustment you make the handbrake will not work properly. So MikeJohn it looks like you need new cables like me, and i understand its a pig of a job to do. __________________ Previously owned- MG ZT V6 160 Y plate Lpg, MG ZT 190 2003 In Rare Celestial Factory Ordered Lpg MG ZT 190 2004 lpg

9th May 2010, 10:32	#3
chunkybray Avid contributor mg zt-t Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Staines Posts: 192 Thanks: 1 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/down...ile=tid029.pdf This might help.

9th May 2010, 17:40	#4
skippy1 Newbie Rover 75 saloon Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Nuneaton Posts: 22 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	thanxs for info looks easy enough

10th May 2010, 08:13	#9
MikeJohn Avid contributor Rover 75 Tourer CDTi Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Bisley Posts: 230 Thanks: 32 Thanked 42 Times in 40 Posts	Likewise mine is all new bits (and it was also helpful to look at Chris's to try and compare another one), but it is still not brilliant. It seems if I adjust in the drum tight enough it drags too much, but if there is no drag at all in the drum there is not enough adjustment left at the handbrake end. Maybe a drive with it (partly) on to remove the high spots from the shoes, then strip clkean and re-adjust? Also the how-to (and many posts) refer to having no more than 25mm of thread showing at the handbrake end - does nayone know why as I cannot get near that on mine - and Chris's originally was far worse - it is now better but still more than 25mm. Thanks Mike