Drop Links Fitting Front

[Arctic]

I only recently added some extra grease to a couple of pairs I have in the shed, as said earlier in this thread I always add some extra grease to any make of drop links just to make sure, it takes little effort for a better gain in my opinion.

I have a couple of Unipart drop links out there now for at least 7 months and as of yet had no bad report back on them, they to were given the extra grease treatment.

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[suzublu]

Nice one Steve I've got a pair of new ones ready to go on when the others fail, & that's on my job list
Just a thought, would it be possible to fill the ones already fitted?

[Jules]

Originally Posted by suzublu

Nice one Steve I've got a pair of new ones ready to go on when the others fail, & that's on my job list
Just a thought, would it be possible to fill the ones already fitted?

Yes you can if the gaitors aren't the bonded type.
With those you have to use a needle syringe which makes a tiny hole in the rubber.

Best to have a hole amd full of grease rather than no hole and dry!!

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by Arctic

I only recently added some extra grease to a couple of pairs I have in the shed, as said earlier in this thread I always add some extra grease to any make of drop links just to make sure, it takes little effort for a better gain in my opinion.

I have a couple of Unipart drop links out there now for at least 7 months and as of yet had no bad report back on them, they to were given the extra grease treatment.

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what grease did you use?

macafee2

[Daveluck]

So tighten up all the bolts while the front is off the ground?

I thought you had to nip them up then lower the car and then tighten o the required torque?

[Arctic]

You can do that as well, but I have always tightened the nuts up when car is jacked up as you have more access, once it is torqued up it is torqued

[Arctic]

[QUOTE]

Originally Posted by macafee2

what grease did you use?

macafee2[/QUOTE

]

I use CV joint grease, and or Molybdenum grease for suspension joints & steering joints.

[clf]

Originally Posted by Arctic

You can do that as well, but I have always tightened the nuts up when car is jacked up as you have more access, once it is torqued up it is torqued

Just a query Steve on that point. Whilst I had the car on axle stands (under the chassis stabilising bars from the front subframe), when doing the struts, I jacked up the bottom of the hub, just to the point where I heard the axle stand creak as the weight was released from it. ie the weight of that corner was only just on the jack. Then torque it up. Should it have fallen from the jack, it would have dropped no more than 2 or 3 mm back to the stand. I have never read of anyone doing this, but to me it felt safe, as even if it was to move laterally, the height from the stands meant it would still be caught by them.

[Arctic]

Hi Alan.
I see what you are saying, but surely when the car was going down the line in the factory it did not have it's wheels on the ground when the drop links were fitted, they would have just been torqued up whilst the car was in the air hanging etc, therefore why would we need to do it with the wheels on the ground ? just my way of thinking.

24.52 minutes into the film
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hzBkhZ-XKW8

[clf]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Alan.
I see what you are saying, but surely when the car was going down the line in the factory it did not have it's wheels on the ground when the drop links were fitted, they would have just been torqued up whilst the car was in the air hanging etc, therefore why would we need to do it with the wheels on the ground ? just my way of thinking.

24.52 minutes into the film
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hzBkhZ-XKW8

I dont know the right or wrong way for it. I never understood fully the reason for why it would need to be torqued on the ground. (I watched the video, and your thinking was always how I thought myself - but read otherwise from others more experienced and knowledgeable than myself, so went with it. My thinking is that it wouldnt do any harm either way).

I do kind of see a reason, as you drop the car, the rotational movement as it settles could be enough to untorque one side, and over torque the other (albeit by a minuscule amount). But in practice, I think it is one of those things that may affect one in a million, and someone is covering themselves. Perhaps even a safety method? Torquing to 100nm whilst in the air could tip it of a jack/stand?

My comment was only to find reassurance though if I am honest, that what I was doing, had the same effect and maybe safe too lol. It was in no way a doubt or questioning your methods.