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Old 24th May 2018, 11:49   #51
Kev75
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Hi, I think its when you are fitting rubber bush type suspension joint where the rubber bush is under tension you need to have the weight on the joint before you fully tighten it up.
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Old 24th May 2018, 13:32   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clf View Post
I dont know the right or wrong way for it. I never understood fully the reason for why it would need to be torqued on the ground. (I watched the video, and your thinking was always how I thought myself - but read otherwise from others more experienced and knowledgeable than myself, so went with it. My thinking is that it wouldnt do any harm either way).

I do kind of see a reason, as you drop the car, the rotational movement as it settles could be enough to untorque one side, and over torque the other (albeit by a minuscule amount). But in practice, I think it is one of those things that may affect one in a million, and someone is covering themselves. Perhaps even a safety method? Torquing to 100nm whilst in the air could tip it of a jack/stand?

Quote:
My comment was only to find reassurance though if I am honest, that what I was doing, had the same effect and maybe safe too lol. It was in no way a doubt or questioning your methods.
Hi Alan.
I knew where you were coming from and did not take it as you were questioning how I did it, I too have read drop the car onto it's wheels and tighten up the drop links, it is I have never done it that way others may have I am sure both methods are good Arctic.
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Old 24th May 2018, 13:57   #53
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A job I will be doing this BH ready for MOT in July.

Sure it’s been said but trimming the top thread back is an absolute must do!!

Makes replacement a piece of cake.

And let’s face it - it’s virtually an annual job for the MOT. - tho I am considering getting high spec adjustable ones next time - set at standard height- just to see if they last a bit longer.
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Old 24th May 2018, 16:33   #54
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Drop link joints have a 360 rotation as well as the angular movement .. they will find they own optimum position under load .

so tighten them up any old way and any position but easiest is both suspension arms in a similar position .



Not so for bonded rubber joints/bushes which need to be close to the operating position before tightening up .



Stop over thinking stuff ...




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Old 26th May 2018, 22:37   #55
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I tightened my drop link top joint with the wheels off the car, then nipped up the bottom,dropped the car to the ground( with the wheels on), and then tightened the bottom joint. Don’t know what the difference is but in the works manual it says to drop the car onto its wheels before torquing the drop link nuts up ? I, like Steve put extra grease into the rubber covers, and use Castrol CL grease.This grease has the propensity to (stick like sh/yte).
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Old 27th May 2018, 00:20   #56
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It's nonsense.

There is no way the front drop links have any benefit from being done up under the weight of the car.

There might be an argument for the rears however, with the change of geometry combined with the rubber bushings in one half of the link, but for the fronts, just lol.
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Old 27th May 2018, 01:57   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic View Post
Hi fellow R75 MG ZT owners with my MOT pending i decided to fit some new front drop links which i have had for quite a while now, the main reason was that the rubber boots started to perish but were still keeping out dust etc, but better to be safe than sorrybelow follows how i did the fitting.

Two day earlier i cut 7mm of the top thread of the new drop lins so i could get a spanner on when i fitted them on the 15/8/2014.







Dress the end of the thread after cutting.




First of all i jacked the car up and lowered it on to some axle stands, that way you can deal with both sides instead of one side at a time.
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Remove both wheels
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With both road wheels removed turn the steering on full lock to face you so you can work easier on the drop link nuts, mine were 15mm use a socket and an open ended spanner on the flat of the drop link.
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Start with the bottom joint first
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With the nut removed lever or tap the thread out of the anti roll bar end.
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You can now deal with the top drop link nut, put the open spanner on the flat of the drop link and turn it should move as the bottom is not fitted in to the anti roll bar, once it as move a few turns you should be able to get a ring spanner over the top nut.
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Keep turning the the drop link using the flat while holding the nut in place with the ring spanner and it should come free.
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14

Now removed all you need to do is clean the areas that the new link will be fitted to.
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Clean and add a little copper grease
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You can now offer up the new drop link top first and make sure the nut is on straight not cross theaded tighten it up at least by 7mm so the thead is flush with the nut.
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Fit the bottom of the link into the anti roll bar.
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Now tighten up the top nut of the drop link to how tight you think it was before undoing then add a quarter turn.
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Do the same with the bottom nut using a socket and a torque if you have one if not do the same as above.
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Repeat the process on the opposite side of the car.
bottom nut first again levering it out after nut removed..
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Then remove the top nut if the drop link will not turn or is turning with the nut you can grind down a spanners edge so it will fit into the recess of the top joint as below
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This should get the link moving if you do not have a grinder try a wedge in the recess.
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Add the new drop link as above and before.
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fit the bottom
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Job done double check everthing lower the car i will check again on the nuts in a couple of days.
The reason i decided to change the drop links rubber perishing.
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Good luck Arctic. :thumbsup:


Thank you for such a comprehensive guide one to be printed off and kept for people who need lots of guidance, also reference for those who know how but want reassurance.
Many thanks and keep up the good work
Alan



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Old 27th May 2018, 16:17   #58
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The discussion on how to tighten the drop links on fitting new ones is fraught with many if’s and but’s. I do not profess to know if the reason that the lower nut should be torqued up with the weight of the car on the floor, or not, is because if you change them, notice the differing angle of the lower drop link joints when the car has been lowered to the floor, compared with when it is on the jack. Just saying, because there must, i would think, be a reason it is in the works manual.Or perhaps that is just the recognised way that that said they should be done. Nothing technical.
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Old 8th October 2019, 13:12   #59
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I have found the time today to replenish the photo's on this thread, quite a few to go yet, I will try and do one each day cheers Arctic.
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Old 8th October 2019, 17:28   #60
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I need to get this done soon. Can't make my mind up with Meyle or try some of the new DMGRS ones. Garage want £60 to fit whichever I buy, though.
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