Fan replacement woes

frankgoldstar · 29th June 2017, 10:34

Dear Simon,

I do have a DVM, which is where the equipment becomes more comprehensive that the understanding.

As soon as I plugged the "new" fan assembly in, I ran the voltmeter round the connections in the control box and found 12v on practically everything.

This confused me, but the line in one of Arctic's postings about switching the negative side it sort of made sense.

Now you have confirmed the relays are 12v, i can at least energise the coils and see if they click.

I was going to pull the PCB's out of the housings, but bearing in mind a comment that getting them out had often destroyed them, I chickened out.

Other than powering the relays and bearing in mind the tentative diagnosis from Artic that the PCB could be U/S, is there any way to test the PCB inside the box?

Best regards, Frank

29th June 2017, 10:34	#21
frankgoldstar Avid contributor Rover 75 Conny Saloon Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Manchester Posts: 144 Thanks: 16 Thanked 25 Times in 16 Posts	Dear Simon, I do have a DVM, which is where the equipment becomes more comprehensive that the understanding. As soon as I plugged the "new" fan assembly in, I ran the voltmeter round the connections in the control box and found 12v on practically everything. This confused me, but the line in one of Arctic's postings about switching the negative side it sort of made sense. Now you have confirmed the relays are 12v, i can at least energise the coils and see if they click. I was going to pull the PCB's out of the housings, but bearing in mind a comment that getting them out had often destroyed them, I chickened out. Other than powering the relays and bearing in mind the tentative diagnosis from Artic that the PCB could be U/S, is there any way to test the PCB inside the box? Best regards, Frank