1.8 Engine. Unfair Criticism? - Page 24

kaiser · 22nd April 2017, 14:00

Well, done 220km today. Initially with bated breath! but as the distance piled on with increasing confidence.
the car goes perfectly, maybe a bit nippier than before.?
The liners protruded and the head was flat, so I just bolted together!

The 30 Nm was applied as 20Nm the day before and then leaving overnight.
The I gave it 5Nm and 5Nm, which would more or less amount to about one quarter to one half turn for the bolt. Then the 180 and the 180 degrees.
So compared to standard, I guess the bolt is stretched max 1.5mm in stead of 1mm.
I'm confident, it will not overstretch the bolts.
But the proof is in the pudding!:

BTW the sprocket on the crank was the right version, the only reason I did not use the wider belt is the bolt thread for the tensioner in the block is 8mm, yet the bolt in the new tensioner (the automatic) is only 6mm, and it cannot be enlarged to accept a bigger bolt, as the hole lies right at the periphery of the bearing!
Further, the hole might not be in the same place for the two tensioners.

You can undoubtedly modify the hear/tensioner? to accept the belt, but it would require machining of one way or another.

BTW, the only problem i found with the engine were pitted exhaust valves. It would leak petrol from the chambers on cyl 1 and 2. I batteled to regrind the valves. The mechanics looked at me and shook their heads. Old fashioned craft, one said. I looked at him and asked why, he said, if that has to be done today, we throw the car out. There is no financial justification for doing this type of work anymore!

Dawn · 22nd April 2017, 16:03

Hello everyone

Quick k series question. I recently bought my first 1.8, and people were advising me how to avoid issues. One suggestion was a set of silicone hoses, complete with link. However, this kit is meant for the turbo, which mine is not. Can I find none turbo silicone anywhere please? I've looked, but haven't found any yet. TA!

kaiser · 22nd April 2017, 18:04

Silicone hoses will not make much difference. The rubber hoses are fine, but need to be checked and replaced as they can and do weaken.

The most important things on the 1.8 is to make them run cool. So check water often, make sure the thermostat and the fan is working.
Water loss often from water pump, radiator, inlet manifold and radiator cap.

Just check often and realize the temperature gauge is not very good for predicting problems. It will show normal for any temperature between 75 and 115 degrees.!!

Dawn · 22nd April 2017, 19:35

Yes, I was just thinking of replacing the old hoses to be on the safe side. I can't find silicone for longevity, though. Once all repairs are done I am getting a digital temp gauge fitted so I don't obsess with the ipk.

kaiser · 22nd April 2017, 19:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dawn

Yes, I was just thinking of replacing the old hoses to be on the safe side. I can't find silicone for longevity, though. Once all repairs are done I am getting a digital temp gauge fitted so I don't obsess with the ipk.

The main hose to the radiator on top, went on our 1.8t. You could tear it in a spiral strip with you hand! It looked like a peeled orange, the one you peel in a strip round and round.
I seem to recall I posted a pick some years ago, but I don't seem to be able to find it.

Dawn · 22nd April 2017, 21:57

She's special to me �� Been looking for a Cowley in white for a long time and want to look after her. Ate normal hoses from Rimmers or?

marinabrian · 22nd April 2017, 22:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaiser

Well, done 220km today. Initially with bated breath! but as the distance piled on with increasing confidence.
the car goes perfectly, maybe a bit nippier than before.?
The liners protruded and the head was flat, so I just bolted together!

The 30 Nm was applied as 20Nm the day before and then leaving overnight.
The I gave it 5Nm and 5Nm, which would more or less amount to about one quarter to one half turn for the bolt. Then the 180 and the 180 degrees.
So compared to standard, I guess the bolt is stretched max 1.5mm in stead of 1mm.
I'm confident, it will not overstretch the bolts.
But the proof is in the pudding!:

BTW the sprocket on the crank was the right version, the only reason I did not use the wider belt is the bolt thread for the tensioner in the block is 8mm, yet the bolt in the new tensioner (the automatic) is only 6mm, and it cannot be enlarged to accept a bigger bolt, as the hole lies right at the periphery of the bearing!
Further, the hole might not be in the same place for the two tensioners.

You can undoubtedly modify the hear/tensioner? to accept the belt, but it would require machining of one way or another.

BTW, the only problem i found with the engine were pitted exhaust valves. It would leak petrol from the chambers on cyl 1 and 2. I batteled to regrind the valves. The mechanics looked at me and shook their heads. Old fashioned craft, one said. I looked at him and asked why, he said, if that has to be done today, we throw the car out. There is no financial justification for doing this type of work anymore!

Guido, the auto tensioning version of the cylinder head has the tapped hole for the tensioner in a different place altogether.......however this can be drilled and tapped with the head off the car, if conversion to the 26mm belt is desired

However, in terms of longevity the manual tensioning version is fine, the 23mm belt does require replacement more often than the 26mm one, however after almost 400,000 miles and eight cambelts, the damp liner engine in my 214 has not had the head removed in 374,000 miles

Brian

P.S. managed to source a 'stat on Friday, and the running temperatures look good

kaiser · 23rd April 2017, 05:49

pletevl · 24th April 2017, 08:25

Brian,

didn't the head gasket problems start when they went to wet liners and an open block ?

I had a Rover metro 1.1 that never had any engine problems and over 200,000 miles.

Pete.

minimutly · 24th April 2017, 16:29

The early engines were wet liners with o ring seals, which brought their own problems. The liners used to bind in the block through corrosion, which stiffened the block, and also caused the liner to constrict. They rarely suffered hg failures though.
The first damp liner blocks had plastic dowels which may have caused issues, the block itself looks less stiff, and anything bigger than 1400 had thinner liners. Most cars they were fitted in had dodgy radiators and coolant lines, which often failed around the 8-10 year mark, add it all together...

22nd April 2017, 14:00	#231
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	Well, done 220km today. Initially with bated breath! but as the distance piled on with increasing confidence. the car goes perfectly, maybe a bit nippier than before.? The liners protruded and the head was flat, so I just bolted together! The 30 Nm was applied as 20Nm the day before and then leaving overnight. The I gave it 5Nm and 5Nm, which would more or less amount to about one quarter to one half turn for the bolt. Then the 180 and the 180 degrees. So compared to standard, I guess the bolt is stretched max 1.5mm in stead of 1mm. I'm confident, it will not overstretch the bolts. But the proof is in the pudding!: BTW the sprocket on the crank was the right version, the only reason I did not use the wider belt is the bolt thread for the tensioner in the block is 8mm, yet the bolt in the new tensioner (the automatic) is only 6mm, and it cannot be enlarged to accept a bigger bolt, as the hole lies right at the periphery of the bearing! Further, the hole might not be in the same place for the two tensioners. You can undoubtedly modify the hear/tensioner? to accept the belt, but it would require machining of one way or another. BTW, the only problem i found with the engine were pitted exhaust valves. It would leak petrol from the chambers on cyl 1 and 2. I batteled to regrind the valves. The mechanics looked at me and shook their heads. Old fashioned craft, one said. I looked at him and asked why, he said, if that has to be done today, we throw the car out. There is no financial justification for doing this type of work anymore! __________________ Worth his V8 in gold

22nd April 2017, 18:04	#233
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	Silicone hoses will not make much difference. The rubber hoses are fine, but need to be checked and replaced as they can and do weaken. The most important things on the 1.8 is to make them run cool. So check water often, make sure the thermostat and the fan is working. Water loss often from water pump, radiator, inlet manifold and radiator cap. Just check often and realize the temperature gauge is not very good for predicting problems. It will show normal for any temperature between 75 and 115 degrees.!! __________________ Worth his V8 in gold

23rd April 2017, 05:49	#238
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	! __________________ Worth his V8 in gold

22nd April 2017, 16:03	#232
Dawn I really should get out more....... MG ZT 180+ auto Join Date: May 2016 Location: Ilkeston, Derbys Posts: 2,743 Thanks: 285 Thanked 1,128 Times in 504 Posts	Hello everyone Quick k series question. I recently bought my first 1.8, and people were advising me how to avoid issues. One suggestion was a set of silicone hoses, complete with link. However, this kit is meant for the turbo, which mine is not. Can I find none turbo silicone anywhere please? I've looked, but haven't found any yet. TA!

22nd April 2017, 19:35	#234
Dawn I really should get out more....... MG ZT 180+ auto Join Date: May 2016 Location: Ilkeston, Derbys Posts: 2,743 Thanks: 285 Thanked 1,128 Times in 504 Posts	Yes, I was just thinking of replacing the old hoses to be on the safe side. I can't find silicone for longevity, though. Once all repairs are done I am getting a digital temp gauge fitted so I don't obsess with the ipk.

22nd April 2017, 21:57	#236
Dawn I really should get out more....... MG ZT 180+ auto Join Date: May 2016 Location: Ilkeston, Derbys Posts: 2,743 Thanks: 285 Thanked 1,128 Times in 504 Posts	She's special to me �� Been looking for a Cowley in white for a long time and want to look after her. Ate normal hoses from Rimmers or?

24th April 2017, 08:25	#239
pletevl Posted a thing or two rover 75 cdti(rhd), MG ZR(lhd), MG TF(lhd), MG TF(rhd), mini mpi (lhd), Renault megane III (awful) Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: East of France Posts: 1,282 Thanks: 124 Thanked 114 Times in 93 Posts	Brian, didn't the head gasket problems start when they went to wet liners and an open block ? I had a Rover metro 1.1 that never had any engine problems and over 200,000 miles. Pete.

24th April 2017, 16:29	#240
minimutly Posted a thing or two mg zt Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: cardigan Posts: 1,087 Thanks: 28 Thanked 187 Times in 158 Posts	The early engines were wet liners with o ring seals, which brought their own problems. The liners used to bind in the block through corrosion, which stiffened the block, and also caused the liner to constrict. They rarely suffered hg failures though. The first damp liner blocks had plastic dowels which may have caused issues, the block itself looks less stiff, and anything bigger than 1400 had thinner liners. Most cars they were fitted in had dodgy radiators and coolant lines, which often failed around the 8-10 year mark, add it all together...