Oil

myjess · 10th June 2007, 19:57

Porbably ben asked many times before but heck, I'm tired and do not want to search too much.

Anyway, I heard that fully synthetic is best but sucks/cleans out the inside of the engine taking all the old oil crud that is lying around, is this true?
If I were to use synthetic, would I be better changing the filter after a few thousand, or the filter and the expensive oil again?

On the "other" forum there was an advert for oil additive and I think I asked at the time if anyone used it. It is supposed to fill the gaps that wear produces. Has anyone used any stuff like that?

Ross R75 · 10th June 2007, 20:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by myjess

Porbably ben asked many times before but heck, I'm tired and do not want to search too much.

Anyway, I heard that fully synthetic is best but sucks/cleans out the inside of the engine taking all the old oil crud that is lying around, is this true?
If I were to use synthetic, would I be better changing the filter after a few thousand, or the filter and the expensive oil again?

On the "other" forum there was an advert for oil additive and I think I asked at the time if anyone used it. It is supposed to fill the gaps that wear produces. Has anyone used any stuff like that?

A true fully-synthetic oil will remove caked-on carbonised oil from the engine internals. If you must switch to full-synthetic you can forget changing the filter after a few thousand. You'll need to fill with your new oil then change oil and filter after a couple of hundred miles and replace with fresh fully synthetic oil. This removes all of the microscopic particles that the fully synthetic will remove, they are too small for the filter to catch but are incredibly abrasive.

Personally, I'm sticking with semi-synthetic. I've yet to see any credible evidence to suggest that fully-synthetic oil is any better for your engine than regularly changed semi-synthetic or even mineral oil. Unless you do 15k+ between oil changes I wouldn't bother.

MartinW · 10th June 2007, 21:48

Forget aftermarket magic mouse milk. I am too tired to answer in full, though, as to why you should.

As to the particles released, the filter can get clogged, too, owing to the sticky nature of the particles and more worryingly, the particles can clog very small oil ways and starve oil flow.

Synthetic is best used from near new. I have come to the conclusion after 91k miles that synthetic is indeed a waste of time - it's not the engine that's giving me grief, that's the least of my worries.

It's the rest of the car that's falling apart! Next time I won't bother, I'll just do the std dealership cheapo oil changes at their recommended intervals of 12k miles (or whatever it was meant to be in their advertising bumpf and isn't) and flog the car onto some unsuspecting punter before it starts falling apart. Afterall, frequent oil changes are just bad for the environment and only make oil companies and garages rich.

myjess · 11th June 2007, 20:26

bump.
Anyone else used the "aftermarket magic mouse milk"? Notice any difference?

myjess · 11th June 2007, 20:28

'Ere, and another question, how does that oil flush stuff work? Surelay the engine cannot be running with it in and the oil draining out the bottom, so how else does it get around the engine to flush the oil out?

MartinW · 11th June 2007, 21:21

The engine flushes are added for a very short period prior to drainage and are usually done when the engine is hot, and on tickover, not under load, because they dilute the oil's viscosity in some cases.

As to magic mouse milk - I won't bore you with the details but independent testing found, in many cases, no actual improvement in wear control, and some companies have been fined heavily for false claims. the simple Timken OK Load test they demonstrate can be replicated with products such as shampoo, and I have heard, milk, too. Coca-cola is also reputed to be a brilliant flushing product.

Where companies are selling this product my first question will be where are the MSDS forms? If they can't answer that, steer clear. Then I'll ask for independent testing reports - again if I am given "customer letters" to read, then I will steer clear - any one can write a letter, and few letter writers ever appear qualified to make objective assesments in a scientific vein. Lastly, if they won't tell me what the product contains beyond some Harry Potterish gibberish, then I shall definitely walk away.

You can not make a silk purse out of a sow's ear and you cannot improve the quality of a cheap oil. Not without good scientific support. Major oil companies do vast amounts of research into the various conditions in which their oil will be used, and do significant testing beyond mere wear control.

I'm sorry, but a chap buying a 208L drum of chlorinated hydro-carbons for £100 or so, and then selling it on in 150mL bottles at £15 ea will not convince me his product is any good for my car. And nor do I want to add a heap of finely chopped up Teflon in to my oil.

Ross R75 · 12th June 2007, 00:59

I can confirm that Coca Cola is indeed an excellent flushing product. We use it to strip carbon from the gas parts of GPMG machine guns, it saves hours of scrubbing.

Zeb · 12th June 2007, 07:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ross R75

I can confirm that Coca Cola is indeed an excellent flushing product. We use it to strip carbon from the gas parts of GPMG machine guns, it saves hours of scrubbing.

T'is excellent for getting limescale off toilet bowls too

10th June 2007, 19:57	#1
myjess Avid contributor Rover 75 CDT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Stokesville Posts: 115 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Oil Porbably ben asked many times before but heck, I'm tired and do not want to search too much. Anyway, I heard that fully synthetic is best but sucks/cleans out the inside of the engine taking all the old oil crud that is lying around, is this true? If I were to use synthetic, would I be better changing the filter after a few thousand, or the filter and the expensive oil again? On the "other" forum there was an advert for oil additive and I think I asked at the time if anyone used it. It is supposed to fill the gaps that wear produces. Has anyone used any stuff like that?

12th June 2007, 00:59	#7
Ross R75 Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 1,535 Thanks: 137 Thanked 229 Times in 156 Posts	I can confirm that Coca Cola is indeed an excellent flushing product. We use it to strip carbon from the gas parts of GPMG machine guns, it saves hours of scrubbing. __________________ Copperleaf R75 CDT 160

10th June 2007, 21:48	#3
MartinW Newbie MG TF LE500 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Chester Posts: 2 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Forget aftermarket magic mouse milk. I am too tired to answer in full, though, as to why you should. As to the particles released, the filter can get clogged, too, owing to the sticky nature of the particles and more worryingly, the particles can clog very small oil ways and starve oil flow. Synthetic is best used from near new. I have come to the conclusion after 91k miles that synthetic is indeed a waste of time - it's not the engine that's giving me grief, that's the least of my worries. It's the rest of the car that's falling apart! Next time I won't bother, I'll just do the std dealership cheapo oil changes at their recommended intervals of 12k miles (or whatever it was meant to be in their advertising bumpf and isn't) and flog the car onto some unsuspecting punter before it starts falling apart. Afterall, frequent oil changes are just bad for the environment and only make oil companies and garages rich.

11th June 2007, 20:26	#4
myjess Avid contributor Rover 75 CDT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Stokesville Posts: 115 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	bump. Anyone else used the "aftermarket magic mouse milk"? Notice any difference?

11th June 2007, 20:28	#5
myjess Avid contributor Rover 75 CDT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Stokesville Posts: 115 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	'Ere, and another question, how does that oil flush stuff work? Surelay the engine cannot be running with it in and the oil draining out the bottom, so how else does it get around the engine to flush the oil out?

11th June 2007, 21:21	#6
MartinW Newbie MG TF LE500 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Chester Posts: 2 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	The engine flushes are added for a very short period prior to drainage and are usually done when the engine is hot, and on tickover, not under load, because they dilute the oil's viscosity in some cases. As to magic mouse milk - I won't bore you with the details but independent testing found, in many cases, no actual improvement in wear control, and some companies have been fined heavily for false claims. the simple Timken OK Load test they demonstrate can be replicated with products such as shampoo, and I have heard, milk, too. Coca-cola is also reputed to be a brilliant flushing product. Where companies are selling this product my first question will be where are the MSDS forms? If they can't answer that, steer clear. Then I'll ask for independent testing reports - again if I am given "customer letters" to read, then I will steer clear - any one can write a letter, and few letter writers ever appear qualified to make objective assesments in a scientific vein. Lastly, if they won't tell me what the product contains beyond some Harry Potterish gibberish, then I shall definitely walk away. You can not make a silk purse out of a sow's ear and you cannot improve the quality of a cheap oil. Not without good scientific support. Major oil companies do vast amounts of research into the various conditions in which their oil will be used, and do significant testing beyond mere wear control. I'm sorry, but a chap buying a 208L drum of chlorinated hydro-carbons for £100 or so, and then selling it on in 150mL bottles at £15 ea will not convince me his product is any good for my car. And nor do I want to add a heap of finely chopped up Teflon in to my oil.