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12th October 2021, 12:23 | #1 |
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Fixing damaged wiring caused by EGR leak
Hi folks,
I posted on another thread about some issues that have been caused by an EGR bypass that I recently installed (https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...&postcount=427). Photo... I have fixed the broken EGR pipe by removing it and fitting a blanking plate on the back of the engine where the EGR pipe was connected. However, I am now left with a car that only runs in limp mode - the throttle doesn't seem to do anything and it stays at about 1200 rpm. The dashboard shows a 'check engine' light. The split EGR blew hot exhaust gases onto the side of the engine and as you can see from the photo has melted some of the inlet manifold and wiring to the fuel rail pressure sensor. The manifold damage is cosmetic, but I will swap it for a replacement. To fix the wiring, it's been suggested to me that I replace the engine wiring harness. They're not too expensive on ebay. Has anyone done this before? I was wondering how easy it is. Another option is to just replace the melted wiring. I assume that when I remove the inlet manifold, there would be a reasonable amount of room to get at the wiring and splice in (with solder) a replacement section of wiring and connector. This means less disturbance to the rest of the wiring harness. I'd be interested to know what people think about this - is one option preferable over the other do you think? Cheers, Al |
12th October 2021, 12:51 | #2 |
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[QUOTE=al_dente;2903334]Hi folks,
I posted on another thread about some issues that have been caused by an EGR bypass that I recently installed (https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...&postcount=427). Photo... I have fixed the broken EGR pipe by removing it and fitting a blanking plate on the back of the engine where the EGR pipe was connected. However, I am now left with a car that only runs in limp mode - the throttle doesn't seem to do anything and it stays at about 1200 rpm. The dashboard shows a 'check engine' light. The split EGR blew hot exhaust gases onto the side of the engine and as you can see from the photo has melted some of the inlet manifold and wiring to the fuel rail pressure sensor. The manifold damage is cosmetic, but I will swap it for a replacement. To fix the wiring, it's been suggested to me that I replace the engine wiring harness. They're not too expensive on ebay. Has anyone done this before? I was wondering how easy it is. Another option is to just replace the melted wiring. I assume that when I remove the inlet manifold, there would be a reasonable amount of room to get at the wiring and splice in (with solder) a replacement section of wiring and connector. This means less disturbance to the rest of the wiring harness. I'd be interested to know what people think about this - is one option preferable over the other do you think? Cheers, Al[/QUOTE Are the actual wires to the fuel rail pressure sensor in fact cut, burned or in anyway damaged?. If they are not, as I cannot make it out from the photo, I would leave well alone, you can check the voltage using a multimeter I suppose, if the damage is predominantly to the shield I would use waterproof tape to insulate. |
12th October 2021, 19:54 | #3 |
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To be honest it is no surprise that the pipe split - nothing is supporting one end, it looks like stainless steel so not too malleable and as it is a stone crusher the vibration will cause a split sooner or later. If anybody else has done something similar the pipe needs supporting at the blanked off end.
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12th October 2021, 19:57 | #4 |
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Just replace the broken wiring, you dont need to change the whole harness.
I have seen EGR bypasses cause this on more than one occasion, i would stick to a clean original EGR rather than fit a bypass.
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12th October 2021, 22:10 | #5 |
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Hi Alistair.
I reported on this back on the thread below, and told you that those EGR with out the support are no good at all. https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...&postcount=428 You can remove the manifold and you will be able to get to the wiring loom a little more. 1 To remove the loom is a fair bit of work. 2
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13th October 2021, 11:56 | #6 |
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As Arctic shows replacing the whole loom is quite involved, he also shows, how after a little dismantling, there will be plenty space to effect a repair if needed.
If some or all three wires need replacing just make sure you use the same size of conductor, soldered joints covered with adhesive heat shrink will make a permanent and waterproof repair and finally wrapping the repaired section with tape, including overlapping both ends of the convoluted tubing, self amalgamating tape or similar makes a good waterproof covering. But, before you do any surgery or dismantling do as has been mentioned and check the out puts and inputs at the plug.
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30th October 2021, 12:53 | #7 |
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Good news! I've soldered in a new connector this morning and she's running as normal again.
Thanks everyone for your advice. |
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