|
||
|
7th July 2020, 14:42 | #71 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Under the car
Posts: 1,840
Thanks: 210
Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts
|
Victoire!
LH side. Above: that spring looks in remarkably good nick. New ones going on anyway. Below is the tricky little blighter - I used Steve's method to shift the lower arm out of it. Fifteen minutes of 'tapping' () via a block of 2x2 and it finally popped out. A good dollop of Förch Black Magic too. I'll use Brian's method on the RH side just to see which is easier/faster. Not much wrong with this wheel arch. The usual surface rust on spot welds and a bit on those seams and that's it. The loom needs re-taping too (not visible in this pic). I'm very impressed with the bodies on these cars. More pics and a few questions later - need more tea now. |
7th July 2020, 16:04 | #72 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 14,890
Thanks: 1,630
Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts
|
when you put it back, a little oil on the splines and clean out the hole for the bolt in the 3rd picture.
macafee2 |
7th July 2020, 19:47 | #73 |
This is my second home
R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: France/or Devon.
Posts: 14,003
Thanks: 3,851
Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts
|
Where the pinch bolt goes through. Did you wedge it open slightly to remove the ball joint ?? Makes life easier if you do.
Check that rubber gaiter for wear or leaks. Now is the time to replace it if necessary as you've got all the hard bits off.-- |
7th July 2020, 20:50 | #74 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 11,531
Thanks: 3,470
Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts
|
|
8th July 2020, 09:02 | #75 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Under the car
Posts: 1,840
Thanks: 210
Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts
|
|
8th July 2020, 09:52 | #76 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Under the car
Posts: 1,840
Thanks: 210
Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts
|
A few more pics for reference.
1. Top mount : a lot of dirt & stuff in there - no matter, they're being replaced anyway. 2. 3. 4. 5. Spring protector - the factory paint on these is truly pathetic. This one has been on the car half as long as the dampers have and all the paint has completely disappeared. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. Last edited by Blink; 8th July 2020 at 09:55.. |
8th July 2020, 10:01 | #77 | |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Under the car
Posts: 1,840
Thanks: 210
Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts
|
Quote:
As for the rubber gaiter - how do these odd-looking factory clips undo? I can't see how to release them without chewing up the rubber. Both driveshafts need to come off the car - they'll be going to the sandblasters (glass media) for cleaning, then I'll get some proper paint on them. Same goes for the steering rack gaiters - the arms will be off to the blasters too, so I need to get these gaiter clips undone. |
|
8th July 2020, 10:07 | #78 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Under the car
Posts: 1,840
Thanks: 210
Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts
|
PS. Rimmers driveshaft page is fairly useless now - most of the key parts have been deleted from the listing.
|
8th July 2020, 13:07 | #79 | ||
Give to Learn
Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 18,651
Thanks: 1,155
Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts
|
Quote:
A small flat blade screw drive under the clip edge marked with the yellow dots will lift the part that's got the tags showing through. The use screw driver in the clip that as been squashed together to make them tight. green arrow pointer 1 PS a few of these maybe of use to you as well, they must be good before putting the drive shaft back in, also when removing the drive shaft pull it out in a straight line no downward or upward movement as the seals are easy damaged, then when you come to refit the drive shafts you will have a leak. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-TDL100170
__________________
Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 8th July 2020 at 13:13.. |
||
8th July 2020, 17:29 | #80 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Under the car
Posts: 1,840
Thanks: 210
Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts
|
Ok thanks Steve, I'll try that tomorrow - rain has stopped play for today.
I did get the RH strut & swivel off though - and what a pain that was! The exhaust U clamp method didn't work and neither did the 2x2 method. I even tried both methods together - i.e. belting the 2x2 with a club hammer while standing (or rather crouching) on the 30" crowbar, which was held in place by the U clamp. It still wouldn't budge! In the end I had to resort to this. I hope I haven't damaged the drive shaft (?) - I was having to whack this thing pretty hard. Anyway, it worked, even if it has wiped out the ball joint in the process (not really important 'cos I've got new lower arms to go on). This is the RH now. That shaft looks to me like it's been overheating. Look at the colour of the area just inboard of the thread - that's in line with the outside of the bearing. I wonder if it's connected with the RH hub nut being done up too tight (as mentioned in post 47). Time for a cuppa. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|