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Old 7th July 2020, 14:42   #71
Blink
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Victoire!

LH side.





Above: that spring looks in remarkably good nick. New ones going on anyway.

Below is the tricky little blighter - I used Steve's method to shift the lower arm out of it. Fifteen minutes of 'tapping' () via a block of 2x2 and it finally popped out. A good dollop of Förch Black Magic too. I'll use Brian's method on the RH side just to see which is easier/faster.



Not much wrong with this wheel arch. The usual surface rust on spot welds and a bit on those seams and that's it. The loom needs re-taping too (not visible in this pic). I'm very impressed with the bodies on these cars.



More pics and a few questions later - need more tea now.

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Old 7th July 2020, 16:04   #72
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when you put it back, a little oil on the splines and clean out the hole for the bolt in the 3rd picture.

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Old 7th July 2020, 19:47   #73
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Where the pinch bolt goes through. Did you wedge it open slightly to remove the ball joint ?? Makes life easier if you do.

Check that rubber gaiter for wear or leaks. Now is the time to replace it if necessary as you've got all the hard bits off.--
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Old 7th July 2020, 20:50   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
the drift being a bit of wood

macafee2
Can't use wood at work, so I have a selection of brass drifts.
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Old 8th July 2020, 09:02   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
when you put it back, a little oil on the splines and clean out the hole for the bolt in the 3rd picture.

macafee2
Will do. Thanks Ian.
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Old 8th July 2020, 09:52   #76
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A few more pics for reference.

1. Top mount : a lot of dirt & stuff in there - no matter, they're being replaced anyway.



2.


3.


4.



5. Spring protector - the factory paint on these is truly pathetic. This one has been on the car half as long as the dampers have and all the paint has completely disappeared.



6.


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11.


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14.

Last edited by Blink; 8th July 2020 at 09:55..
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Old 8th July 2020, 10:01   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post
Where the pinch bolt goes through. Did you wedge it open slightly to remove the ball joint ?? Makes life easier if you do.

Check that rubber gaiter for wear or leaks. Now is the time to replace it if necessary as you've got all the hard bits off.--
Yes, I hammered an old 1" wood chisel in there as far as it would go.

As for the rubber gaiter - how do these odd-looking factory clips undo? I can't see how to release them without chewing up the rubber.





Both driveshafts need to come off the car - they'll be going to the sandblasters (glass media) for cleaning, then I'll get some proper paint on them.

Same goes for the steering rack gaiters - the arms will be off to the blasters too, so I need to get these gaiter clips undone.

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Old 8th July 2020, 10:07   #78
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PS. Rimmers driveshaft page is fairly useless now - most of the key parts have been deleted from the listing.
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Old 8th July 2020, 13:07   #79
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Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blink View Post
PS. Rimmers driveshaft page is fairly useless now - most of the key parts have been deleted from the listing.
Hi Simon.
A small flat blade screw drive under the clip edge marked with the yellow dots will lift the part that's got the tags showing through.

The use screw driver in the clip that as been squashed together to make them tight. green arrow pointer

1

PS a few of these maybe of use to you as well, they must be good before putting the drive shaft back in, also when removing the drive shaft pull it out in a straight line no downward or upward movement as the seals are easy damaged, then when you come to refit the drive shafts you will have a leak.

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-TDL100170
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Old 8th July 2020, 17:29   #80
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Ok thanks Steve, I'll try that tomorrow - rain has stopped play for today.

I did get the RH strut & swivel off though - and what a pain that was! The exhaust U clamp method didn't work and neither did the 2x2 method. I even tried both methods together - i.e. belting the 2x2 with a club hammer while standing (or rather crouching) on the 30" crowbar, which was held in place by the U clamp. It still wouldn't budge!

In the end I had to resort to this.



I hope I haven't damaged the drive shaft (?) - I was having to whack this thing pretty hard. Anyway, it worked, even if it has wiped out the ball joint in the process (not really important 'cos I've got new lower arms to go on).

This is the RH now. That shaft looks to me like it's been overheating. Look at the colour of the area just inboard of the thread - that's in line with the outside of the bearing. I wonder if it's connected with the RH hub nut being done up too tight (as mentioned in post 47).



Time for a cuppa.
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